Norm Knowles Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 (edited) I have just purchased a 1948 Dodge D25C Spl Del Cpe (Canadian Made) which appears to be fully original. It is running and driveable. On my initial 20 mile drive it ran well but on returning home and lifting the engine hood I observed a bit of antifreeze in the third from the front spark plug recession. No obvious leak in the cooling system which never got higher than 180 F degrees. Could someone please advise what this indicates and source of this fluid. Does it mean a headgasket may need replacing? My first question and request for help on this site but I have read many of the items on this forum and am very impressed on the help given to persons needing same. Thanks to one and all. Norm K. Thanks Greg and Neal. Will check your suggestions tomorrow. Also felt that I should flush the cooling system and add some Antirust Inhibutor but a mechanic said this could cause many leak problems. What are your thoughts? I will replace the antifreeze if I do flush with old style green antifreeze. Previous owner advised the water pump needs replacing and supplied me with a new one but in cleaning the water pump area I noticed two grease nipples behind the rad fan that did not appear to have been serviced for many years ( car may have not been driven much since 1974 when last licensed) so I applied some grease and I think (hearing bad) that some of the noise from the pump diminished. Do you think the pump should be changed? Thanks again. Norm. Edited June 21, 2018 by Norm Knowles Update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 You could have the system pressure tested by a shop. Be advised these systems were not pressurized from the factory so any testing should not exceed 5 psi. Does you heater supply hose go any where close to the area in question?? In the mean time, clean it up, start it up and observe what happens. The other thing folks tend to do is overfill the radiator. There wants to be some room for expansion when hot. As long as the radiator core is covered with coolant you are good to go. If you put in more than needed it will belch it out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Could there be a seep at the thermostat housing / hoses that is blowing into #3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Sure sounds like a leak in the system that is blowing coolant back over the engine. Clean it up, dry it off then run it and watch for any leaks to reappear. Sure doesn't look like a head gasket. Probably an easy fix but if its a radiator leak could be a little spendy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 My first thought was heater hose passing over that area. It could also be a head bolt seeping coolant past the threads and oozing out under the head. It’s unlikely that a leak at the thermostat housing would not leave any evidence in #1 & #2, and collect in #3, but I suppose it’s possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Recently I had antifreeze in the three front spark plug wells. I tightened all the hose clamps at the thermostat housing, and checked the bolts securing the housing. No leaks since. I think that antifreeze sprayed out over the engine and evaporated from the head, except at the spark plug wells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busycoupe Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Look for staining on the radiator core. If there is a slight leak the fan will blow it back over the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Also use the old original green sytle AF. Do not use the nex extended type AF. The newer style is know for having issues with seals and gaskets. This come directly from Prestone engineer. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 (edited) 22 hours ago, Norm Knowles said: Rich, When you say the old original AF, do you mean the stuff in the white plastic gallon bottles? Please advise as to which container, or what title you are reffering to. Thank you. Tom Edited June 22, 2018 by Tom Skinner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 (edited) 17 minutes ago, Tom Skinner said: Rich, When you say the old original AF, do you mean the stuff in the white plastic gallon bottles? Please advise as to which container, or what title you are reffering to. Thank you. Tom Tom I referred to the old original GREEN AF that we all used back in the 50-60's. This is stillavialble at all stores. You might have to look to find it becasue most modern cars are now using the extended style yellow or orange color AF. The original green can come in any color bottle it doesnot matter beacuse each manufacturer has different bottle colors. every year i install pint of radiator rust inhibutor and water pump lubricate in the radiator. It is made by GUNK. This helps keep the antirusting agents active. AF has a long active life in the engine but the antirusting agents are what breaks down and then this causes the af to turn brown from the rust and then you welch plugs or freeze out plugs start to rust and then leak. The cost is arounf $4.00 for a pint bottle and i feel that it is worth the extra protection for the block and waterpump. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com Edited June 22, 2018 by desoto1939 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Herein California it is sold by Auto Zone . It is labeled accordingly . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 As far as the water pump, there used to be special water pump grease. But these days some have suggested boat trailer wheel bearing grease. If you find some of that ,I might give the pump fittings a shot of that we if it quiets down. If not replace it. But the newer ones aren't built as well as the older ones. Personally I don't put much store in additional supliments to automotive fluids. I don't run my car in the winter and it parks in a grage that very seldom goes below 40° in winter. I have been using a 70% water and 30% coolant for 15 years with no issues. Car barely exceeds 170 degrees on the gauge. I think I have changed out twice in 45000 miles. Youth experience may differ, only passing along what ha worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmcdowel Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 I would definitely replace the water pump....it will save you lots of grief later. Oddly enough when my water pump went out I noticed antifreeze around the 3rd plug...the pump was misting at higher engine speeds and it appears it blew it back in that area....the front two plugs maybe were just close enough to the fan to evaporate the antifreeze. Not sure, but anyway that was my first clue. Also, look on the underside of your hood...there may be a strip of oily wet antifreeze up there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Concur on replacing water pump - you've already got the replacement, so cheap insurance. Once the bearings start to go you can only extend their life, not save them. Our D24 will also get anti-freeze in the first spark plug well, once in a blue moon it'll also be in two and maybe three. But mostly #1. Ours' is a seep from the base of thermostat housing. I think it's due to different expansion/contraction rates between the head, the housing, and the bolts. It only does it when the car is cold, and the weather changes drastically (to the cold side). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm Knowles Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Thanks to all of you for your comments and suggestions. Ran the engine for about 20 minutes today and saw no visable leaks so went on another short drive and on return found no evidence of any moisture around anywhere. Mystery !!! Had hearing aids on though and was able to hear water pump making a good noise so will be changing it asap. Thanks to all again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Thanks for the update. Nice to hear from the original poster when suggestions are tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 (edited) 22 hours ago, greg g said: As far as the water pump, there used to be special water pump grease. But these days some have suggested boat trailer wheel bearing grease. If you find some of that ,I might give the pump fittings a shot of that we if it quiets down. If not replace it. But the newer ones aren't built as well as the older ones. Personally I don't put much store in additional supliments to automotive fluids. I don't run my car in the winter and it parks in a grage that very seldom goes below 40° in winter. I have been using a 70% water and 30% coolant for 15 years with no issues. Car barely exceeds 170 degrees on the gauge. I think I have changed out twice in 45000 miles. Youth experience may differ, only passing along what ha worked for me. Greg G, I would be worried about the antirusting agents might have wornout since you have driven the car 45000 miles and only changed the AF twice. The old green Af was good for several years. Look in the radiator opening and check to see if the Af IS A RUST COLOR OR TURNING BROWNISH INSTEAD OF THE BRIGHT GREEN. iF TURING BROWN THEN YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE af TO KEEP THE ANTIRUSTING AGENT UP TO PAR. bELOW IS AN EXAMPLE OF THE af TURING BROWN. rICH HARTUNG Edited June 23, 2018 by desoto1939 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 Still green and clear.Must be living right...we thank you for your concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labrauer Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 Norm I once had an engine (218) that all three spark plug holes got full of water after filling the radiator and starting the engine. Didn't see the water until I started the engine. The gasket under the thermostat housing was leaking. I tried to tighten the bolts down but got to the point that I thought I was going to break them off. Still was leaking so I took the housing off installed a new gasket but this time I put some permertex gasket sealer on top and bottom of the gasket and never had a leak since. If that isn't your case I would look at a leaking radiator upper hose or the radiator it self. Check to see it the radiator cap has the gasket on it also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belvedere Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 NAPA sells the traditional green AF under part number 1GAL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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