austinsailor Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 I just read this entire thread, and am left with one question - why does anyone think welding a lump on the fuel pump arm will increase the stroke? It'll alter the starting point of the stroke, but not the distance. ??? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackTheFinger Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 For anyone looking for a 12v electric fuel pump. I have one of these on my VW transporter, still clicking along after 25+ years. They're available in different pressure and flow rates, too. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackTheFinger Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 (edited) On 6/17/2018 at 1:38 PM, desoto1939 said: if there is an air leak I would think that you would have a fuel leak issue also. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com It's according to where the air leak is located. Had a leak in a braided line on my '51 Ford flathead V8 that kept me looking for a little while. The braided line being higher than the tank, between the pump and the hard line from the tank; allowed the fuel pump to suck air but not pull fuel. Thus no chance of a fuel leak and no fuel to the pump. Edited June 22, 2018 by MackTheFinger content Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 1 hour ago, austinsailor said: I just read this entire thread, and am left with one question - why does anyone think welding a lump on the fuel pump arm will increase the stroke? It'll alter the starting point of the stroke, but not the distance. ??? My wife's uncle said they did that in the Army, back in the 50s. I have to assume that Military contractors back then manufactured parts that didn't fit, just like products today. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 (edited) You stated that you installed the carter P4259 electric FP and still no fuel to the carb. So disconnect the mechanical FP and connect a hose to the fuel line at the front on the engine where the fuel line comes out then run the hose into a container tos ee if you get any fuel when cranking the car over. Also assuming that you have a working electric FP then you should get fuel to pump out the line into the container. If no fuel come out or only a small amount then there is something in the line or something wrong in the routing with the double lines that you have shown. The electric FP should pump at 3-5 LBS and you should have a steady flow of gas. I still think you might have a air leak or a clogged line. The electric fp should do the job keep looking you will find the issue. Also check the inline fuel filtr make sure that they are installed correctly and that the output side is facing to the carb and that they are not install backwards. Rich Hartung Edited June 23, 2018 by desoto1939 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyace Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 I do not have any experience with Mopar mechanical fuel pumps but the experience that I do have with other makes has shown that if the diaphragm is intact, then the culprit is almost always with the check valves. One trick I learned from an old mechanic to bench test a suspicious pump is to clamp the pump in a vise, run a clear piece of tubing from the inlet and discharge ports and put the other ends in jars with a little gas in them. Move the actuating lever and watch the motion of the fuel. No flow, bad diaphragm or blocked check valve. Fuel moving backwards in one of the lines, bad check valves. Once the pump is confirmed to be working and the problem still exists, start looking for obstructions in the fuel lines. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted June 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 (edited) Rich the biggest reason I changed the title of this thread to "Putz" is that I had the fuel regulator in backwards, hence no fuel. Rebuild of old fuel pump no success, valves were too small. Yesterday I put the diaphragm and bowl gasket in the AIRTEX FUEL pump. SUCCESS. I used a rebuild from Vintage American Auto Parts. I think this kit is perfect fit for the AIRTEX 71203. Hope to go for a test drive after I get back from "Back to the 50's" car show at the Minnesota State Fair grounds. 12,000 cars Edited June 23, 2018 by 48ply1stcar more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted June 24, 2018 Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 Sounds as if might have found the issue and I hope you get the results with a great volume of gas going to the carb. Rich Hartung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 UPDATE. Back to where I started. Starts good, tops outs at about 48MPH and stumbles. I haven't rebuild the carb yet, but there's nothing in the kit that I haven't replaced or nothing I haven't cleaned (I think). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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