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ebruns1

My Scarebird Kit install and a few ? 1948 Dodge

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Hey Fellas,

Here's some install photos of my progress.  I have to say, I was very impressed with the overall quality of this kit.  The brackets fit like a glove bolted right up to the spindles.  The billet aluminum hubs fit well too.  The only small issue we had with one of the hubs was that the rotor would not fit without some filing of the holes.  A couple of the lug studs were too close to the center hub by maybe 1/32".  We enlarged the holes on the rotor with a drill bit and pushed towards the center hub which gave us the clearance we needed to get the rotor mounted.  The other hub was fine.  We were initially concerned with the 1/2" space between the back of the hub and the spindle, but a quick e-mail to Mr. Scarebird said as long as the bearings were seated it was fine. 

 

I still have a question on where the instructions say "tighten outer nut to spec and install new cotter pin" when installing the new hub.  We tightened the nut until the hub would no longer spin and then backed it off until we could insert the cotter pin.  Is this ok?  What is the "spec" for tightness?  Any tighter and it will lock up.

 

Another question since we forgot to take photos when we scrapped the rubber brake lines and hoses...how is it routed from the metal tab on the frame?  Does it exit out of the top or out the bottom of the bracket?  If anyone has a photo of their front brake hoses I'd love to see how they are set up.

 

Thanks in advance for your help fellas!

 

Jim T

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If you had to make the holes in the rotors bigger to get it to fit over the studs, will the wheel still fit?

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1 hour ago, YukonJack said:

If you had to make the holes in the rotors bigger to get it to fit over the studs, will the wheel still fit?

 

The rims are held on with self centering tapered lug nuts, so I don't think a 32nd or 64th of an inch will make any difference.  The rotors don't have anywhere near as much wiggle room.

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are you sure that it was the hub?  my rotors fit right over the hubs, no issue. I have the same gap in the back but deemed it ok after looking.

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57 minutes ago, matt167 said:

are you sure that it was the hub?  my rotors fit right over the hubs, no issue. I have the same gap in the back but deemed it ok after looking.

 

Yes I'm 100% sure it was the hub.  One hub BOTH rotors fit perfectly, the other hub would fit neither rotor.  Mark said it my have been possible that one or two studs were warped when they stamped the "R" on the ends of the studs.  So I know it was a problem with that hub.

 

In looking over the parts list again, I think I missed one of the seals that would probably fit in that gap. 

 

matt167, did you put a seal there?  It's on the parts list but I forgot to buy it.  I mis-read the "included" parts list and thought all the seals were included, but that's not the case.  There is one seal you have to buy.  Did you install it?  I don't have the instructions in front of me, but it might have said a seal from a Camaro.  

 

Also, which brake hose did you go with?  The 15" or 17" one.  We measured and thought the 15" should be fine, but I'm not sure how it is routed.  Any pics of yours would be appreciated!

 

Jim T.

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I got the seals in my kit. Timken brand. And yes, it also lists them as '67-'68 Camaro. It goes right behind the rear bearing, cup side in and fits flush with the back of the hub. I think he owe's you a seal

 

I have not finished mine/ hoses not installed. Bummed and waiting for wheels now. I bought both 15 and 17" but I think 15" will work. The line comes into the clip from the top over the frame rail, and the hose comes in from the bottom.. I'll go through my phone and see if I took any pics

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4 hours ago, matt167 said:

yup. Can feel the seal sliding past when putting the hub on, so it's at least that far in.

Matt,

We can't figure out what is holding the hub from sliding all the way back against the shoulder???  Shouldn't the bearing be riding on the uppermost flat part of the spindle?  Or does it ride on the tapered part and the taper is holding it from going all the way back?  We are scratching our heads and I'm waiting to get an answer to my e-mail from Mark at Scarebird.  He has been very responsive. 

 

Also, regarding the Camaro rear seal...it was included in my kit.  For some reason he also listed it in the parts you need to supply yourself, so it is listed twice!  I knew I didn't buy one.

 

Jim

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It's the bearing itself bottoming out on the spindle.. I thought it was the seal doing it, but after pulling it apart a few times, looking at it, it cannot be the seal preventing it to go all the way in.

 

The only way to see if it differs from the factory hub, is to pull the inner bearing from the factory hub and see where it lands on the spindle, and then do the same with the Scarebird provided bearing. I think the issue though, is the original hubs had the bearings deeper and the seal went over that rear area. The Scarebird hubs just do not cover it

 

And ditto on the seal being listed twice.. I guess mistakes like that just prove Mark is human running a small shop

Edited by matt167

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On 6/5/2018 at 8:20 AM, ebruns1 said:

Hey Fellas,

Here's some install photos of my progress.  I have to say, I was very impressed with the overall quality of this kit.  The brackets fit like a glove bolted right up to the spindles.  The billet aluminum hubs fit well too.  The only small issue we had with one of the hubs was that the rotor would not fit without some filing of the holes.  A couple of the lug studs were too close to the center hub by maybe 1/32".  We enlarged the holes on the rotor with a drill bit and pushed towards the center hub which gave us the clearance we needed to get the rotor mounted.  The other hub was fine.  We were initially concerned with the 1/2" space between the back of the hub and the spindle, but a quick e-mail to Mr. Scarebird said as long as the bearings were seated it was fine. 

 

I still have a question on where the instructions say "tighten outer nut to spec and install new cotter pin" when installing the new hub.  We tightened the nut until the hub would no longer spin and then backed it off until we could insert the cotter pin.  Is this ok?  What is the "spec" for tightness?  Any tighter and it will lock up.

 

Another question since we forgot to take photos when we scrapped the rubber brake lines and hoses...how is it routed from the metal tab on the frame?  Does it exit out of the top or out the bottom of the bracket?  If anyone has a photo of their front brake hoses I'd love to see how they are set up.

 

Thanks in advance for your help fellas!

 

Jim T

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20180602_100553_resized.jpg

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Hi Jim, I’ve had my system in place for two years now. I went with a coated steel braided 15” line in front of the upright. That hub spacing was the same on mine. Only problem I had was the timkin bearings on both sides went bad with in months. Used better bearings and no problem since. 

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Disc Brakes all shiny and new? and now's the time for attention to the greasy cruddy front end components.

Now nice new great brakes, and hows the front suspension, hey it can be greasy and cruddy but tight and within tolerance I suppose.

How is your front end?

 

 

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55Fargo, 

Who knows?  I'm still working on it and we can't get the engine to start yet.  Maybe getting ahead of myself re-doing and upgrading the brakes but I'm trying to move forward on anything I can at this point.  I figure it needs to be done anyway, and when/if we get the engine running maybe we can yard drive it and at least be able to stop!  It seems like it's one step forward two steps back so far.  The pace of progress is somewhat discouraging, but reading this forum and the good advice from you folks keeps me motivated...

 

Jim T

 

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My conversion is done and my car is driving again. Brakes stop true and hard.  Had a hiccup that's worth noting. The bearings when adjusted like every other bearing I've ever installed ( tighten till tight, back off till castle nut is lined up ) were too loose, and caused a clunk/ bang situation when braking. I put new pads on, then staked the outer pad tabs into the calipers and finally tightened up the bearings one castle notch.

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matt167,

 

Thanks for the heads up!  I will drive and re-check them if I ever get my engine running! 

 

Seriously, good info and always good to go back and check after driving a little...especially brakes!

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I am thinking of going front disk- make the car much more drive-able.  What have others done for the master cylinder when you put in front disks? 

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I put in all 4 discs and kept the original MC.  Yes it's a single not a dual.  I won't drive it as an everyday car so I'm willing to risk that.

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19 hours ago, John Norlien said:

I am thinking of going front disk- make the car much more drive-able.  What have others done for the master cylinder when you put in front disks? 

Remove the internal check valve and drive...

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as the stock master is lower than the calipers...and you are retaining the rear drums...you now are faced with two systems, one outlet master...you will need to remove the internal check valve and install residual valves inline to your cylinders/calipers.....2lb for the disc and 10lb for the drums..

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59 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

as the stock master is lower than the calipers...and you are retaining the rear drums...you now are faced with two systems, one outlet master...you will need to remove the internal check valve and install residual valves inline to your cylinders/calipers.....2lb for the disc and 10lb for the drums..

I always thought this too.  In fact my other hot rods all have the residuals front and back with a modern master cylinder.  For some reason the stock master cylinder doesn't need them, at least mine has never exhibited symptoms of needing them. 

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even if for some reason you do not think they are needed....why did ma Mopar install the check valve into the original master that you stated needs be removed...not an argument mind you, just asking.   Chrysler never was guilty of putting on parts not needed...

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When I removed it 4 years ago I fully expected to be forced to install residual pressure valves, but I decided to give it a try.....  That was 4 years ago and I have never had to pump the brakes to get a pedal, even after sitting for months.  I have left them out on other cars and had problems with low master cylinders.

Maybe a magic master cylinder?

 

Adam

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maybe a restricted vent hole...with the vent hole in the fill cap....very small one might I ad...the fluid above to reservoir level is by gravity destined to weep out...that is the very call for the residual along with proper pressure rating for disc verse the heavily spring force of the rear shoes.   When installing a remote fill on my 54 stock master,  I had to plug the vent hole so to retain fluid in the remote fill reservoir as the lid for the remote became the system vent...

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