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Optium battery in parallel, Powermaster alternator


Richard Cope

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Hi would like to get your comments on using two Optium batteries in parallel and single wire Powermaster alternator (with the generator look).  Have a 39 Ply. with stock generator and currently using one Optium battery.  Considering adding a second battery in parallel.  Those that have did this, have you seen a noticeable improvement, especially in cranking? Do you think the current generator / voltage regulator would charge sufficient?  Eventually want to change out the generator for a single wire 6 volt Powermaster alternator.  Has anyone had any experience with this alternator?  Appears that the alternator will work with the original generator bracket with perhaps some modifications.  If anyone has used, did the alternator pully align correctly or was it necessary move  the bracket .  Appreciate you help and comments.

Rich

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In 1969 I have used two standard 6 volt batteries in parallel in a 63 VW. As for cranking power, I could have driven the car on just the batteries {just kidding). Still used a generator I think it was an improvement when starting in a Minnesota Winter.

 

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I have six cars, all six volt positive ground . Original charging equipment.   No problems with standard group 1 and group 2 lead acid batteries.   Only normal maintenance required.

All start well as long as fuel has reached the carburetor.   I have gotten as little as three years but as much as eleven years of service from the batteries.  I see no reason to change anything.

 

Having said that,  the alternator is an improvement from an engineering standpoint and the Optima is a good battery  but only rarely do these justify the expense ( in my opinion). 

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i have a 48 new yorker with 2 OPTIMA batteries in parallel  ,it turns over very quickly,I also have a 41 Windsor with a single OPTIMA ,it seems to be fine but not as quick as the new yorker with two .Both cars are generator equipped .Seems like the smaller 6 cylinder engine is fine with just one.

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Dpollo,

   I, too, have used conventional lead/acid batteries with no problems. Our car has a generator/voltage regular setup, and it works just fine. Altho’, I am experiencing a situation that I’ve never encountered before—the car’s current 6v battery is now covered with condensation-like moisture. I’ve wiped it dry, and in a couple of days, this condensation reappears. Your tho’t???

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I've done what your considering to do. I installed a pair of optima 6 volt batterys wiring them in parallel using welding cable for battery cable insuring no current drop .  The system is a positive ground 6 volt system with an alternator.  The batterys fit the stock battery box.  Why did I do this and how's it working?  I wanted extra reserve capacity and reliable performance.  The system performs as planned.  The cranking speed is basically the same.  The mounting of the 6 volt alternator was very basic and pulley alignment wasn't a problem. I can provide photos. Hope this helps. 

image.jpeg

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Hi,

Like to thank everyone for your comments and any additional, a pleasure reading.  Originally switched to an Optium battery for the battery box is under the seat and a cover has to be removed to check the water level, a pain to get to.  My goal is to make the car safer and more reliable, occasionally when going to car shows, end up driving from red light to red light probably using more electricity than the generator is making, always concerned that other drivers won't see me.  Two batteries should increase my reserve power and the alternator will be better at slow speeds.  At other times, near impossible to avoid driving on an interstate for ten miles or so, therefore ordered an overdrive from Mitchels.  Recently changed the headlights to LED which fit into the original sockets.  They are much brighter not even comparable to the old ones and only use a fraction of the electricity, highly recommend.  Tried LEDs in the tail lights, however didn't work properly and went back to the standard bulb.  Early spring when backing out of the garage, the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor.  The master cylinder went without any notice.  The car had a  body off restoration about 8 - 9 years ago and since then I have checked the brake fluid regularly but never had to add any, didn't expect a complete failure all at once.  Fortunately, there was no damage.  In the process of converting the front to disk with a dual master cylinder, hopefully will be complete this week.  If nothing more, these changes will provide peace of mind. 

Great Forum,

Rich

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Thanks John,

 

I spoke with Powermaster today, part # PWM-82116 (GM Short - 6 volt, positive ground) should work.  I have an extra bracket, measured it today, has a inner width of 6 in. and the flanges on the alternator have a width of 5.95 in. will give a little room to adjust.  Good to hear that your pulley matched up, was thinking that may have to enlarge or drill new holes in the bracket.  

Regards,

Rich

 

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Good luck Rich with your improvements.  My wagon came with an overdrive trans but wasn't working properly and I almost went the 5 speed route but once I studied the operational and wiring system I got the overdrive working and it's probably the best single option on the vehicle. It's now a road car that cruises at 65/75 mph @ 2000 rpm. The next best improvement was updating the intake/carb system. Little engine actually has some acceleration and gets 20 miles per gallon. Heading out this week to cruise the HOT ROD power tour for about 2600 miles. Keep us posted on your improvements. 

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Hello Richard,

 

I also have a 1939 Plymouth - a 4-door touring sedan. I'm currently working on improving the headlights. I've cleaned and painted the buckets, found NOS lenses, and have the reflectors resilvered. I'm curious which LED headlight bulbs you are using. Can you provide info and a link?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Pete

 

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Hi Pete,

I have made a few additional changes to the lights that also helped.  Last year while driving touched the light switch and noticed that it was a little warm, when the car was done a new wiring harness was put in.  Put a 6 volt relay to the headlights, now only a small voltage goes through the switch.  My car was painted and then assembled, put grounding straps from each light to a good ground surface.  These helped.  I purchased the LED headlights from Classic Dynamo & Regulator (www.dynamoregulatorconversion.com).  Used what they call double dipper part # P30dAPF Positive earth FE2A.  They can use 6 to 12 volts, however are polarity sensitive.  On the expensive side, three cost 82.00 euro.  Had problems with two of the bulbs the retaining ring was not firmly attached.  Used metal epoxy to correct, supplier is making good.  Also recommend LED bulb BA9s (6volt 5LED-AE1C) for the small bulb in the reflector.  This small bulb is probably as bright as my original headlight. They are 2.95 euro each.  Found another company that also sells an LED bulb for the reflector (www.classicandvintagebulbs.com).  Their bulbs are not polarity sensitive, however are more expensive.  Have not purchased any from them.  By chance found that ford used the same headlight socket during that time period, the part number is V13-20215-075 and are readily available (they are wired for 12 volt).  

Hope this helps, Regards

Rich

 

 

 

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Hi Pete,

 

I am using another light you may be interested in.  Use to have directional signals bolted to the front bumper, eliminated and now using  6 V LED motocycle light assembly found on Amizon.  They are flexible strips with yellow and red LEDs, only wired the yellow, unfortunately have a blank spot in the center.  They are as bright or brighter as than the ones I had bolted to the bumper, hardly noticeable when not lit and use little electric.  The part number on the package is IP17001-6v.  " A BlendDoor.com Custom Product"

 

Regards,

Rich

screenshot directionals.png

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Hi Frank,

 

Used two white LEDs that picked up at a car show.  The bulbs had two contacts, however believe there was a problem with the bulbs.  Directional signals worked  and tail lights worked, however wouldn't work together.  Put the regular bulb back in and works perfect.  Going to get a couple more and try again, this time going to try red.  

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Hello Rich,

 

Thanks for your replies. Good stuff to know.

 

I added a period correct Auto-Lite headlight relay to the firewall. I'll wire it up once I get the headlights back together and installed. I have one in my 1938 Dodge pickup and it helps a lot. I also have a 6v + ground alternator in my truck I got off eBay.

 

I'm going to try having my fog lights do double duty as front turn signals. I have this setup on my truck and like the look. I also have an Electro-Tech turn signal switch in the truck, and I got one to install in the Plymouth. They're pricey but work well: http://www.turnswitch.com/Turnsignal.htm.

 

See picture of fog light setup. You can also see how tarnished the reflectors were. I didn't want to pay to have them resilvered, but they were a safety issue. I had them done my Uvira in Oregon so they will never tarnish. It only cost $70 for both, but I had to get them renickeled first - $$$. They are now so beautiful it's a shame to cover them up.

 

Good to know about the LED headlight bulbs. I like the idea of the LED bulbs drawing less power. Right now I'm using the stock gennie and regulator. I had my local guy rebuild/test the charging system and it is putting out the max stock spec. He's very old school and does good work. He even had NOS field coils on the shelf.

 

I may go with the PowerMaster alternator if I see a benefit after all the other work is complete.  I have halogen 2331 replacements in my truck, but they draw a bit more current than stock. I got those at classicandvintagebulbs.com.

 

I have a spare gennie lower bracket but it appeared to need modification to take the PM PWM-82116. I'll need to go back to my notes and /or remeasure after reading your post. Not much stop & go driving in rural Vermont, so I'm not too concerned about dimming out at idle. I try to keep my vehicles mostly stock, but upgrade things I see as safety issues. 

 

I would be good to see how/where you grounded your headlights. Please post a pic if you have one.

 

The biggest pain with the headlights was the gaskets. The only available repros are horrible. They are way too small around to fit. So I bought an extra pair and cut them up and put them on in four parts. Then the rubber was too hard to compress to form a good seal. I ended up getting some neoprene seal that worked well.

 

Enough rambling for now. Thanks for the info,

 

Peter
 

Petes 39 Plymouth.jpg

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Hi Peter,

Nice hearing from you, your car is definitely show quality, it is a shame we are a distance apart would like to see it and show you mine.  When my car was done, kept it as much stock as possible, really got anyl.  Went to a few junk yards and they let me remove bolts with D/B., then found a shop that was doing cad plating and use these under the hood.    Most of my rubber came from Steel rubber, rubber around lights fit good.  I put my relay behind the front grill, not too easy to get to.  Upholstry is exact reproduction of the original.  Have  made the following changes in last couple of years for reliability and safety.  Several springs when first using the car fuel pumps would go out, the rubber diaphram became soft.  Bought pumps from several sources, but none seemed dependable, therefore changed to a 6 volt electric.  

Using an Optium battery, cut the top off of the original battery and set the Optium inside.   in  process of changing to front disk brakes and dual master cylinder,  seems the master cylinder can't be upgraded without also doing the brakes.  This turned out to be a larger project than I anticipated, had to change the wheels to get enough clearance for the disk brakes.  

Got the wheels from Croker, same size as the original however .5 in wider.  As you know, the stock motor doesn't have much power therefore ordered an overdrive - give the motor a little break.   The only modification will be to remove 14 in from the driveshaft and bolt to the frame and make up two short driveshafts.  Actually not going to cut the original driveshaft, but will have two short ones made up.  There will be a pull leaver under the dash to activate.  Will try to find some photos of inside of my car and sent. 

 

Take care,

 

Rich

 

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On 6/4/2018 at 5:04 PM, DrDoctor said:

Dpollo,

 

   I, too, have used conventional lead/acid batteries with no problems. Our car has a generator/voltage regular setup, and it works just fine. Altho’, I am experiencing a situation that I’ve never encountered before—the car’s current 6v battery is now covered with condensation-like moisture. I’ve wiped it dry, and in a couple of days, this condensation reappears. Your tho’t???

 

  Have you checked to see if the moisture is acidic ?   Most unusual !

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Hi Dpollo,

When I was using an lead / acid battery it was such a pain to remove the seat and battery cover wasn't checking it as often as I should.  I cut the top off of the lead / acid and set the Optium inside so when looking from underneath the car appears to have a lead / acid.

Rich

 

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For those guys trying to get LED tail light bulbs to WORK .  I used to hold the counter up professionally ( that means I got 8 peanuts per hour).  People would come in one after the other and buy led sidelights , brake, tail, and turn bulbs and they could never get them to work

 

When you asked if they put that modulator in their system when they installed the led's you get this blank stare.  Its a small piece you HAVE to use because the LED's dont draw enough power to make everything work.  With the balancer, module wired anywhere in that circuit it works every time.  IF anyone NEEDS the Autozone part number I can easily get that.  But it is hanging right there where the bulbs are.

 

If you already knew all this sorry, will delete if it suits everyone.  But that is the MOST common problem when LED's get installed after regular bulbs.  Not an Autozone plug, all other stores will have similiar products,just have to KNOW what you need.  I know where they are if they havent moved them in a little over a year since I have been there

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Thanks for the info.  will go to the local Autozone and get one, do you know if they come in  6 / 12 volt ?  I threw the other tail lights bulbs in the garbage, ordered two new red ones.  When buying at a swap meet and the bulbs are in a plastic bag price is right, however not sure what you are getting.

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HI Rich,

 

Thanks for the info. Very nice looking car.

 

My radio is not working. I'll probably send it out for service next winter. Right now my whole dash is on my workbench, in pieces. What started as replacing the cowl vent seal became a horrible victim of project creep. Now I'm trying to find the time to get everything buttoned back up as I'm missing the summer driving season. I also found an NOS 1939 banjo steering wheel. I wish it was installed by now.

 

I'm curious about the headlight seals you got from Steele. I couldn't find them in their online catalog, and calling them produced no joy either. Can you give me some details, maybe a part number? It would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Pete
 

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Hi Pete,

 

Apologize for not getting back sooner, been out of town.   Haven't been able to locate the receipt where I purchased the headlight gasket, however most of the parts on the car were purchased from either Steel Rubber, Andy Berbaum or Roberts.

Rich

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Hi Rich,

 

Thanks for the reply. I bought the HL gaskets from both Roberts & Andy. They were the identical product; too small and too hard to seal well. I was hoping that Steele had something better. At least I found some neoprene material that appears will work well.

 

Now if I can just find the time to work on the car. On the bright side, a friend said I could drive his 1923 Dodge phaeton in our fourth of July parade if my car wasn't on the road by then. It's a beauty.

 

Pete

 

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