Guest Posted May 28, 2018 Report Share Posted May 28, 2018 Can someone tell me what this is, the wires go straight to the solenoids on the transmission also where do I find the switch for the carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 I do not understand your question. What is an interrupter or a disconnect. What are you trying to disconnect? What vehicle re you working on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 I believe that there were two electrical connections on some Chryslers. One was designed to keep the idle from dropping to quickly when you came to a stop, and the other grounded the points circuit momentarily to provide some drive train slack to accomplish an on demand downshift of the semi automatic gear box, similar to passing gear with a fully automatic trans. Have you looked at the information in the repair section of the Imperial clue website? http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/024/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 You have the wrong carb on your Chrysler engine.... It should look like this with the Prest-O-Matic trans. The kick down switch and anti-stall are shown on this 1950 Chrysler carb... same as what yours should be... Carter carb # E7L1, L2,L3 or L4. This would be the proper carb for a 1949 Windsor with FD and the Prest-O-Matic transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 The choke wire, the single one near the domed cylinder on the exhaust manifold, should go to the small center terminal on the starter solenoid. It should only be powered when the starter is engaged. It allows the choke to go closed against the bimetallic spring, as the spring heats up, it pulls the choke open as the manifold warms to operating temp. As for the other stuff it can probably be shade tree engineered, but I don't have the knowledge necessary to assist. You might want to be on the lookout for a parts car to get the proper carb, wiring harness and switches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Gyromatic should be comparable but may use a Stromberg carb. Desotos too with semi auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackTheFinger Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, wisconsinjimmy said: From all the literature I am reading the fluid drive cars Chrysler Windsor have a interrupt switch on the carb, mine does not have that all I have is this RELAY? / RESISTOR and the P/O really mucked the wiring up. Did they Chrysler get rid of the switch on the carb and replace with this? I don't know what it is but the 1950 Dodge Coronet Gyromatic I have for sale in the classified section, (how's that for a plug?) ; has the same part mounted on the air cleaner support. When the rain lets up I'll take a look and see if I can tell where the wiring goes. Edited May 29, 2018 by MackTheFinger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackTheFinger Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 Don't know that this will help but here ya go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 30, 2018 Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 I would think because the Chrysler 251 engine is bigger than Dodge 230 the jetting will be different so probably should find a 1949-50 DeSoto or Chrysler carter carb so the engine runs right. They both use the same carb #. A pic of your M-6 Prest-O-Matic transmission resistor and circuit breaker box and terminal markings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackTheFinger Posted May 30, 2018 Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 Dodgeb4ya, that sure looks better than the pics I posted! The breaker is generic and self-explanatory. I love those things until they start flaking out when they warm up. I assume the resistor you mention is between the ignition and interrupter terminals. Do you know the value of the resistor? Is the one in your pic PCB mounted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 31, 2018 Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 9 hours ago, MackTheFinger said: Dodgeb4ya, that sure looks better than the pics I posted! The breaker is generic and self-explanatory. I love those things until they start flaking out when they warm up. I assume the resistor you mention is between the ignition and interrupter terminals. Do you know the value of the resistor? Is the one in your pic PCB mounted? The resister is 12 ohms. No PCB's on that. Shown is the back side of the box for 1949-53 Mopar cars with the m-6 trans. As for the 15A breaker flaking out after warming up... never had that happen on any of my M-6 cars in the past 40 years.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted May 31, 2018 Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 In your first pic on this thread. Bottom unit mounted in that 'box' on the air cleaner support. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 31, 2018 Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 43 minutes ago, wisconsinjimmy said: In post #12 can some one tell where the wires go to or are coming from I do believe I have it all correct on the tranny and some of the wires I know where they go but that is for a blue wire and yello the rest are a big ? tHANK YOU jIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted May 31, 2018 Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 The + terminal on the coil connects to the distributor which open and closes the ignition points to ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MackTheFinger Posted May 31, 2018 Report Share Posted May 31, 2018 18 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said: The resister is 12 ohms. No PCB's on that. Shown is the back side of the box for 1949-53 Mopar cars with the m-6 trans. As for the 15A breaker flaking out after warming up... never had that happen on any of my M-6 cars in the past 40 years.? I thought it might have just been setting on a PCB in that one pic. I've had them act up on Harleys. Once, just riding along, singing a song, and suddenly the bike dies. "Hmm, lessee; plenty of gas, no far to the points. Lights work good. What the heck, now alluva sudden I GOT far to the points!! Dang, it's that breaker!! I thank I'll jes' hook it up direct!! Anybody got any bob war? We don't need no stinkin' breakers!!" ? The previous scenario was derived from actual events which occurred alongside Route 60 near Van Buren, Mo. in April 2004 after a cold, rainy ride across Oklahoma. Picked a hunk of wire up from the side of the road, wrapped it up tight around the posts on the breaker and a few minutes later, as Jackie Gleason would say; "And awaaay we go!!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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