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512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread


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I didn’t even think of leaving them wood. Not a bad idea! Maybe the penofin would match them to the armrests? I don’t want to clutter it up with too many textures but luon is cheap and easy to work if I change my mind and the hard part was making the patterns for them.

 

I am hoping the wires will be able to go down through the A pillar but I dunno if they’re hollow and connect to the opening above the kick panel. Anybody know? 

 

 

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.....don’t want to clutter it up with too many textures.... 

While keeping in mind what they say about opinions (this is a family site!) I will hazard to offer mine:  wrap the wood in plain black vinyl.  You are correct about not using the diamond tuft vinyl (too small a piece for such a strong pattern), but keeping the headliner all vinyl will tie it together.

 

Awesome work - I am inspired to try some straight pleated vinyl on my door panels.

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1 hour ago, 59bisquik said:

How about using an ebony stain on the wood so you can adjust how dark it gets and you could still the wood grain?

 

Or, paint to match the metal around the windshield?   Fill the grain, sand really smooth and spray.

 

I'm a long way from this point on my 56, but am following this closely.  Great idea on using and forming the plastic.  Is it ABS, PVC or something else?

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1 hour ago, kencombs said:

 

Or, paint to match the metal around the windshield?   Fill the grain, sand really smooth and spray.

 

I'm a long way from this point on my 56, but am following this closely.  Great idea on using and forming the plastic.  Is it ABS, PVC or something else?

Thanks Ken! It's 1/8' ABS. It has a textured side that's leather-ish but I figured scuffing the smooth side to hold glue would be easier. A 4x8 sheet was like $65.

 

I was thinking about doing satin black to match the rest of the interior paint. I'm trying to keep the stock faded red dash but the A pillars might end up black too. Not sure if I'm making covers for them- probably not.

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I extended the side panels a little by taping then stapling some extra thick cardboard pieces to fill the gaps I wasn’t happy with. I wanted to put a thin layer of foam on first but I couldn’t find any in my stash so I laid it down right over the wood. 

 

The dome light is wired up along with a courtesy light in the passenger footwell. The A-pillar is indeed hollow and I don’t mind the little bit of exposed harness. Maybe I’ll make pillar covers later, maybe not. 

 

Right now the lights are wired constant hot with switched ground. I put a 3 position switch in the dash. Right now it’s off/off/on but after I get the plunger switches installed in the doorjams it’ll be doors/off/on. 

 

I tried to match the spacing somewhat from the door cards and used the same fasteners with finish washers. 

 

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Yeah they’re stainless #14 phillips head screws. Probably couldn’t find them in the 50s so I’d be disqualified from the concourse d’elegance anyway. But if you can’t make it out in the pic I’m gonna go ahead and say they are all perfectly oriented north south east west. Perfectly. 

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Ok so I can’t leave well enough alone but I’m not sure what to do next. I think the A-pillars and wrap around panels behind and above the seat need to be upholstered for it to look finished in there. 

 

The pillar covers will be plain vinyl wrap to match the over door pieces. The rear surround I’m not sure about? It would look pretty plush with the diamond pleats and maybe even soak up some more sound but would that be too much of a good thing? And what about kick panels? They look OK with the spray insulation now but if I do the diamond surround I would maybe want to do the kick panels too for the full on 60s dragster meets padded cell treatment?

 

Anybody got suggestions? I’m all ears

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I'd go plain vinyl between the rear window and the doors - that would keep the use on the diamond pleat consistent to panels on the doors and headliner and would tie in the plain vinyl window surrounds.  I'd go with plain vinyl on the kick panels, too.

 

Your drawings make me smile!

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I threw a chrome strip on the flange below the headliner. I wasn’t sure if it would look cheesy- it’s just 3/4” rounded plastic chrome with 3m double sided tape. It wasn’t much money so I gave it a shot.  I think it actually gives a more finished look and matches well with the stainless brightwork. 

 

It also covers the spots where the edge was a little rusted and still uneven after cleanup and paint. 

 

I also got a pic of the new interior lights in action. I still have to mount and wire the doorjam plunger ground switches and hook them up to my 3 position switch but even having just an on off switch is a big upgrade and will be nice when I get home from work with stuff in the passenger seat and footwell.

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Boy it’s hot out. I made two puddles in the footwells of the truck installing them but with the help of some play-doh to find the clearances I installed plunger style ground switches in the door jams and hooked them up to the open terminal on my three way interior light switch. Now I can turn it on, off to save battery, or leave it to be triggered by either door opening.

 

This is pretty slick from the truck’s more recent humble beginnings. For years the only interior light was a single 12v bulb I hacked into the stock speedo so you could tell when the ignition was on. 

 

Now the dash switches are (left to right)

-Pull park & headlights

-door/off/on interior

-high/off/low heater fan

-momentary crank switch fed by key

-keyswitch

 

And I still have two stock holes left open for the oil slick and ejector seat!

 

I also ordered a set of strap style door checks (thanks plymouthy) like people put in jeeps. They should be unobtrusive and keep the doors out of the fenders which will be more important when I try to straighten out the body a little. 

 

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Edited by Radarsonwheels
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What do you mean? $13 doesn’t get top of the line equipment these days? Haha yeah they won’t hold the door open on a detent but hopefully I won’t have to get out the slide hammer and mud every time it’s gusty out.

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17 hours ago, Radarsonwheels said:

What do you mean? $13 doesn’t get top of the line equipment these days? Haha yeah they won’t hold the door open on a detent but hopefully I won’t have to get out the slide hammer and mud every time it’s gusty out.

 

oddly I see no reason why the standard door checks would let the door get dinged if they and their mounts are in proper condition.

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I think they’re missing? From Plymouthy’s pic it looks like I need a slider to go thru the slot from inside my door and there isn’t one there. I figured it’d be cheaper and easier to throw a set in there that are strap style so I won’t have to worry about the doors swinging into the fender edge any more. 

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Edited by Radarsonwheels
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7 hours ago, Radarsonwheels said:

I think they’re missing? From Plymouthy’s pic it looks like I need a slider to go thru the slot from inside my door and there isn’t one there. I figured it’d be cheaper and easier to throw a set in there that are strap style so I won’t have to worry about the doors swinging into the fender edge any more. 

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Have you checked to see if the maybe door check is laying inside the door on the bottom ? Possibly somewhere down the line before you got it, they were disconnected for some reason and fell inside of the door and never got retrieved. I know yours is newer, but on my '49 if Im not careful when I disconnect the door check it will fall inside then I have to take off the cover and put it back thru when it comes time to reattach it. Just a thought...

 

                      John

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