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512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread


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The template for the driver’s side firewall recess looks like a penguin or something! Hopefully I can do it in one piece and weld the folded corners on the bench instead of standing on my head under the dashboard. The other side I did some of that. Gotta get the folds nice and crisp and accurate or it won’t fit!

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Made that earlier post and didn’t hit submit! Well now it’s a couple hours later and I’m at work for a bit but I took some pics before I left.

 

The firewall pocket is all cut out, folded, and the seams are welded and sanded clean. I painted the interior (motor side) of it so I can just touch up the seams where the paint burnt off once it’s in. 

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Now I have to install it- I needed five more hands to test fit the thing but it looked like it would still fit. Sometimes between the paper having more flex and losing something in translation from paper to metal the gaps won’t be perfect... fingers crossed

 

edit:

I tacked it in on the bottom triangle and up the right side and it’s 3/16” high on the left side. I think I need to put a little cutoff wheel or a carbide burr on the die grinder to cut off the tacks and start over from the firewall to floor corners and work out from the middle. Shouldn’t have gotten in a hurry with my last hour of working time! 

Edited by Radarsonwheels
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Cut it out, put it back in with only one 1/8 gap that I tacked a piece of tig rod into and migged right over. 

 

I still gotta take the column loose and weld up the left corner but that joint is nice and tight so it should go well. My welding helmet fogs up like crazy in the cold!! I’m about to buy a snorkel so I can stop holding my breath in there.

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Thanks Farmer! My buddy said it looks like hvac ducting- he said “is that for heat or AC?” 

 

Heat. Ha! It’s definitely going to be nice and toasty but there is still a nice amount of room for airflow, maintainance, and shifter throttle and kickdown linkages. I still might spend the money and do dynamat all under the seat & rubber floor but the console and firewall might give more benifit. The problem then would be how to make those areas look finished. I guess I could contact cement more black rubber sheeting but I don’t think I could mold a nice one piece like an oem and I don’t want carpet that could end up soggy and smell.

 

The inner fenders have me a little unsure. I feel like maybe they should tab onto the frame top with self tappers and possible into the cab on the inner fender side of the outside firewall corners.

 

I also need to relocate my heater box about 1/2” outboard. I think I might make a plate to weld in so I can just cut out the old swiss cheese mounting area. Dunno if I’ll have to shorten or modify the ducting outlet that sticks off the right side of the box?

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On 2/15/2019 at 11:23 AM, Radarsonwheels said:

        My welding helmet fogs up like crazy in the cold!! I’m about to buy a snorkel so I can stop holding my breath in there.

 

Scuba divers used spit to clear their masks in the old days when the cold water fogged the mask.....eeewww gross....I think I would try some of this first...lol.

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Yup I already did a full rainex treatment on it. It was better but just couldn’t deal with 90° breath into a 30° day. My cheap snorkel came in the mail yesterday. It had a one way exhale valve near the mouthpiece which I hotglued shut and it came with fancy headgear because apparently I ordered one that is supposed to go up the middle of your face instead of out the side. Doesn’t matter- I’m just gonna let it hang down from my my mouth. 

 

I’m pretty excited to be able to see what I’m welding

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The snorkel is awesome. Now I only have to take breaks in laying beads to let things cool down or if my hand gets fatigued. 

 

I got smart and ended up welding the vertical up corner over the gas pedal from the engine side of the firewall. The inside just shows a tiny little bead of penetration in the corner which is perfect because it leaves room to screw in the throttle cable fitting. 

 

There was some stock firewall left as an unneeded flange inside the motor side of the pockets so I torched that off before painting it to keep the rust monster away.

 

I kissed the welds with a flap disc, painted all of it black and called it a good day! 

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Use some fairly thin rubber sheet material bolted on?? May need some rubber parts that bolt together to make it match the area.

 

Where you live do they use salt on the roads?

 

Even where almost dry out there,  it almost always seems some moisture to drive through.

 

Do you plan to wait till mid summers to drive this??

 

Didn't think so. After all this work most of us here will have to try driving as soon as possible!  ?

 

DJ

Edited by DJ194950
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Yup I’m in the salt belt but I only drive the 4wd ramcharger until we get some good rains after a salt-down.  I am not scared of rain but this is a fair weather driver. It’ll probably drive like crap on a wet day.

 

A rubber skirt that flaps over the control arm relief area is a good idea. I also could use the real estate to neatly bolt up some items- ignition, regulator, fan relay, insulated remote battery +12 terminal. 

 

I shouldn’t be scared of these little filler panels after doing that geometry puzzle firewall.

Edited by Radarsonwheels
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Ha! Yeah I decided early on the polygon route would look businesslike and not require a month of hammering and bending. Thanks! I’m so stoked that the cabin is a closed box again. 

 

It’s raining here and I snuck in the garage while my kid was getting showered and pajama’d. I ‘repaired’ my left upright on the seat back spring frame with some round stock to connect the broken pieces and the bendy horizontal rod. The break had been repaired with a torch twice before- once ‘welded’ then ‘brazed’. Neither oldschool ‘farmer repair’ stayed fixed and even after die grinding as much brass off as I could I wanted to weld away from the contaminated weak spot. 

 

I also extended the upright tabs on the seat frame- my seat bottom ended up overstuffed when I had it reupholstered and the seatback sits 3” higher than stock. I can’t be mad- I dropped it off broken and ripped with mouse house horse hair stuffing and without the frame and they did a great job!

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Got the throttle hooked up and verified WOT when the pedal is matted. The throttle pressure cable (kickdown) is also hooked up and the tab is pulled fully back at WOT. I have to make a bracket for the return spring and buy some springs for it too. 

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