ggdad1951 Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 16 hours ago, Radarsonwheels said: Like this but with the hose I ordered which doesn’t have a hard line extension on the block and has better output angles. The chassis side bracket will go where ever the hose tells it then I can finally have the rear all plumbed. you aren't worried it will spin somehow over time and vibration and put stress on your lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 4 hours ago, ggdad1951 said: you aren't worried it will spin somehow over time and vibration and put stress on your lines? A valid concern- thanks good lookin out! The cast center has a rib on the top and I contoured the sheetmetal side of the clamp so it keys to the rib. I think if I use red loctite on the bolts and get a good torque it’ll hold as good as anything else. My hose came two days faster than the tracking predicted which is always nice. The mockup looks good! I welded in the bracket to terminate the chassis side of the hose. Now I’m ready to make and install hard brake lines from the proportioning valve back. Actually I have to mount that too, and bench bleed the master and plumb the fronts. Lots left it’s a start though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 Also welded in a bracket for a negative battery terminal disconnect switch. That way I can cut the battery for maintenance or storage or emergency. It’s not an nhra style killswitch since the motor can still run off the alternator but it will be more convenient than the battery all tucked under the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 Scratched my head and went back and forth for a while and decided to mount my front splitter/ rear proportioning valve under the master cylinder. I started making a bracket to use the mc bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 The bracket is done & painted, the mc is bench bled, bolted up to the prop valve/front splitter, and plumbed up ready to hang on the booster. Gotta make the brace from the firewall to the column drop and a bracket to bolt up and seal the column thru the firewall. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 I had to be a janitor and run the buffer last nite at my shop and worked my day off but I still snuck in a little progress. I started some stuff and measured some other stuff. It’s always better if I have a plan of attack for the loud daytime hours so I don’t waste them planning. I chopped the factory firewall to column drop/lower dash bracket in half and got a new bracket tacked up that bolts to the new swinging pedal bracket and booster stud. I did it real quick so the parts are ugly and I tacked through the paint and dirt on the 54 stub but I figure now that it fits I can blast it clean, weld it up and smooth it a little. It’s a hidden part but there is no need to have it this ugly. The third corner of the triangle to resist flex under braking is the steering column where it pierces the firewall. I measured the angle that it hits the firewall and drew up my best idea that doesn’t cost any $. It doesn’t seem like too hard of a plan- make a plate that’s thick and tapped or has nuts welded to it with a big column hole in the middle, bolt it to the passenger side of the firewall hole. Heat and hammer back the 12:00 region of the column tube flange a little so it has a little more area that hits the plate. Stitch a nice strong tack between the column tube and the plate from 11:00-1:00. Then unbolt the assembly and finish the bottom of the column & bracket with a piecut of sheetmetal or exhaust tubing. ...Or I could just weld one or two tabs on the column tube that bolt to the firewall, then install a Mr. Gasket shifter boot with chrome trim ring. I’m open to suggestions but I’ll probably get after plan A tomorrow after my kid’s on the bus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 Hmm maybe I shouldn’t ding the flange on the column. I’m not sure if it would affect the bearing alignment inside all those tubes. Probably better to just sand a small flat spot with the angle grinder- it’ll get any lost strength back with the addition of the bracket. Also gotta remember to never let the welder ground through the bearings that can cause some problems with smoothness later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 I am also struggling with the master cylinder and pedal placement. I didn’t love the first holes I drilled so I slotted them and now it clears everything but it’s a touch off level. It doesn’t hurt anything but I feel like it’s one of those times where you take the time and do it right for it’s own sake if for no other reason than to convey that the other parts of the build were not just thrown together. Ugh more work haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted January 10, 2019 Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 Do you still have access to the original firewall? I usually patch in the original mounting sheet metal.....why reinvent the wheel? Otherwise you're kind of altering a safety feature that might still be relevant after all is complete. That perforated cage around the column is designed to collapse in a collision. There are also nylon pins in the 2 part steering shaft for the same reason. I wonder if mounting it the way you're thinking would create a situation where it would fail to work right......I don't know. I would suggest you look at the original firewall to see if there's an oblivious answer to that question. In racing I would always say "Safety third!"......but I was always joking. 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 The original firewall had a much larger hole in it and sealed to the column with a plate that was similar in design to the plate I want to make except all the angles are wrong and it would push the column up into the cab another inch or more that I don’t want. I very much want the column’s perforated outer shell and breakaway rivets to work as intended! They will work as designed to make the column collapse if needed. The universal joints and angle into the steering rack will help too. Anything is better than setting a 5’ x 3/4” steel rod up by the bumper and aiming it at your heart. The stock setup is scary. I put in lap belts too but thats about it for safety other than great brakes. Still has a steel dash... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 (edited) This is what I came up with. The plate is 14g and the pie cut is 16g with 3/16 tapped lugs. Strong as houses. It would look amazing with a little body work- maybe later. I got the dash support bar finished too. I still have a few hours of daylight I’m taking a break but I’m thinking about running some brake hard lines. It worked out great that I welded the 1/4-20 tapped lugs to the inside of the column sealing flange. That way I can easily install and remove the bolts by myself. Edited January 10, 2019 by Radarsonwheels More info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 All cleaned up for the day! It was a pretty good thrash today. A little cold but not bad. After my last post I pulled my brake booster and slotted three of the the holes a little so it would sit level. I also painted the rest of the driver’s side firewall front and back so I can install the brake booster and plumb to it. I had already painted behind the new column flange. Hopefully the pedal arm still clears the column (which no longer wiggles around!). I’ll bolt it all back up and check before doing more plumbing. I also secured the clamp on the axle that holds the splitter end of the hose. Loctite and good torque on the clamp and on the splitter. Then I made new brake hard lines for the rear calipers and secured the short caliper hoses to the axle. The short driver’s side run of hard line doesn’t touch anywhere and is pretty sturdy but the passenger side is kind of a long run so I welded a little 16g fold-over hold down tab on the center section. The small tack weld seemed to sink into the iron just fine and now I feel confident the lines won’t move or snag on road debris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 Oh and I’m in love with this eastwood tube flaring tool the flares come out factory perfect quickly and with minimal effort. I didn’t even forget to put any tube nuts on before making a flare! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNR1957NYer Posted January 10, 2019 Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 Still enthralled by your build, even though the progress you can make in a short time makes me feel totally ineffectual! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 13 minutes ago, RNR1957NYer said: Still enthralled by your build, even though the progress you can make in a short time makes me feel totally ineffectual! Thanks NYer! It definitely helps keep me motivated to document the progress here and it’s nice to know if I make a bonehead mistake there’s a good chance somebody will help me catch it. Once in a while I’ll discover a good long build thread online and it’s fun to follow along. Even the best gearhead tv shows gloss over so much fiddly stuff that takes forever. When I find a juicy build thread it’s like having a new show to binge on netflix or something! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jomani Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 4 hours ago, RNR1957NYer said: Still enthralled by your build, even though the progress you can make in a short time makes me feel totally ineffectual! I am pretty sure he doesn’t sleep ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jomani Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 5 hours ago, Radarsonwheels said: Oh and I’m in love with this eastwood tube flaring tool the flares come out factory perfect quickly and with minimal effort. I didn’t even forget to put any tube nuts on before making a flare! I have yet to make a bad flare since I got mine. Not something that gets a lot of use but well worth the money. I can’t say that I have never forgot a nut though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 This morning I installed the master cylinder with the proportioning valve, booster, bracket and pedal, column and dash brace. It all sits level and the pedal swings straight and clears the column nicely. Now I can make the front hard lines and the long run to the rear hose. I measured cut dimpled and welded in the double D shaft to complete the steering linkage which is now properly phased. I had to do a little clearancing but now the steering is completely installed and hooked up. It spins smoothly with the weight off the tires. I did make the power reservoir puke a little! Hopefully the dakota rack and pump are healthy. If not they’re surprisingly cheap. I bolted the fenders to the cab and started on the hood but those threads need chasing and I had to go open my shop. Getting closer and closer to firing up! I think I want to finish the inner front fenders/aprons so they bolt to the frame. Keeping dirt off the motor is always good and I’m gonna need someplace to bolt the MSD box, horn relay, etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 I got my rear steel brake line in. I’ve been making patterns out of thick bailing wire then bending and flaring the tubes in the garage. Gonna need another roll of 3/16” line to finish the front lines. I’m thinking I’ll probably run the passenger side up and across the radiator support crossmember. I had forgotten about the parking brakes! The jeep discs have the tophat rotors with mechanical parking drums inside and I saved the jeep splitter and cable setup that was formerly welded into the 54 chassis. I have a choice of the hand lever from the zj jeep and the foot lever from the dakota kick panel. I think incorporating the hand lever into the side of the shifter would be slick and keep kick panel/firewall space free for the high beam switch and my size 14s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Throwing some ideas around for the console. The parking brake design I’m happy with but the gauges I’m not sure. When I got those fancy autometer gauges for the dash I was still planning to use the spun tank in the bed which had a mechanical gauge. Now that I have a tank with an electrical level sender I bought cheaper bosch volt and fuel gauges and figured I’d put them in the console somehow. Now I’m having second thoughts. Maybe I should just spend the dough on matching autometer fuel & volt dials and put them in the passenger dash cutout? Cupholders wouldn’t be the end of the world either... The problem is that I can’t sweep the console up to meet with the dash because I want to retain the cowl vent. I’m sure I will appreciate having it but man it makes the trans tunnel and firewall setback complicated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) I pulled the trigger on the matching autometer old tyme white face fuel and volts. $46 each is spicy but not prohibitive. They can go in the passenger side mesh screen in the dash since they only need occasional monitoring. Edited January 13, 2019 by Radarsonwheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Perfect! Dude from facebook marketplace just called me right after I warmed up my credit card a little at Summit. He’s gonna come get the old round fuel tank for $80 tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNR1957NYer Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 They can go in the passenger side mesh screen in the dash since they only need occasional monitoring. For what it's worth, I think the dash is a better location for the gauges. Me, I've been looking for an excuse to use an old time cast below dash panel like these from Moon (then I can apply a "Moon Equipped"decals without being a poser!) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted January 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Those are cool! I’m gonna throw one in where my truck has three holes in the lower left of the dash. I pulled a broken 60s VW radio out of there- yuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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