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ebruns1

Scarebird owners? Need help with MC valve ID please

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Fellas,

My Scarebird front brake kit finally arrived!  Yay.  One of the items on the instructions is to remove the internal residual valve from the master cylinder.  Well, mine looks nothing like the one he shows in the instructions and I'm not even sure it is the same thing or not.  The MC is brand new, says "Made in USA" on the side so I'm pretty sure it is the right one.  Take a look at the photo, I seem to have some sort of plate with about 8 holes in circumference around the outer diameter.  This does not match the photo in the instructions which is probably generic but looks a lot different.  I just don't want to pull it out unless I'm sure its the correct part.  So, is that silver metal plate on the top of the spring some sort of residual?  Of course, I will be replacing it with 2lb and 10lb external valves and a prop valve once I plumb the lines.  Thanks for any help!

valve master thing.jpg

Edited by ebruns1

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I'm not a Scarebird kit owner but that looks exactly like the residual valve in Harley Davidson Wagner master cylinders.

Edited by MackTheFinger
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Yes, that’s the residual valve in your fingers. Remove it from the spring and reassemble. You can probably loose the rubber washer on the end cap that it seats against too. 

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Thanks for the answers guys...I need to keep this project going!  The Scarebird kit took quite a few weeks to arrive due to his moving from one state to another.  I will say that he responded promptly to my e-mails every time I checked in for an update.  Also the kit looks very well engineered for anyone contemplating the swap over.  I'll confirm this after the install but so far looks good!

 

Matt167 - glad I could help, let me know how you're install goes. 

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I'm half way through my Scarebird kit.  Found that the original 1950 P20 15" wheels Do not clear the calipers, regardless of what he put in the description. 16" I would guess would fit. They hit on the rivets that hold the wheel together

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1 hour ago, matt167 said:

I'm half way through my Scarebird kit.  Found that the original 1950 P20 15" wheels Do not clear the calipers, regardless of what he put in the description. 16" I would guess would fit. They hit on the rivets that hold the wheel together

 

Any possibility of clearancing the calipers a bit?

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1 hour ago, matt167 said:

I'm half way through my Scarebird kit.  Found that the original 1950 P20 15" wheels Do not clear the calipers, regardless of what he put in the description. 16" I would guess would fit. They hit on the rivets that hold the wheel together

 I think it is a general truism that steel wheels build for drum brake cars almost never work on cars with disc brakes.

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2 minutes ago, MackTheFinger said:

 

Any possibility of clearancing the calipers a bit?

 

Yes, but in that area it's very thin where it would hit

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2 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

 I think it is a general truism that steel wheels build for drum brake cars almost never work on cars with disc brakes.

 

Yup, but that's not what is on his website. I would have prepared with wheels on order. Now I'm set back a week or so

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Yeah. I just didn't really want to.. I have a couple Crown vic wheels. I might fit them up and just stick them on the front.

Edited by matt167

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1 hour ago, matt167 said:

 

Yup, but that's not what is on his website. I would have prepared with wheels on order. Now I'm set back a week or so

Check both Summit Racing and Jegs for aftermarket steel wheels that will work with disc brakes. You can buy brand new steel wheels so cheap now it's not worth your time to sandblast and paint old ones unless you are restoring. I bought 4 of these from Summit for $251.88,including shipping. Brand new,and they came with free "baby moon" hubcaps. I bought them for my 51 Ford,so the 6 inch wheels I bought were wider than stock and could handle the 215R75 X 15 whitewall radials I put on them. They fit perfectly,and all I had to do when they came in was to degrease,prime,and paint them. I can sell the original wheels that were on the 51 to a restorer for more money than that,and didn't even have to sandblast them.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-51-5610

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Just now, knuckleharley said:

Check both Summit Racing and Jegs for aftermarket steel wheels that will work with disc brakes. You can buy brand new steel wheels so cheap now it's not worth your time to sandblast and paint old ones unless you are restoring. I bought 4 of these from Summit for $251.88,including shipping. Brand new,and they came with free "baby moon" hubcaps. I bought them for my 51 Ford,so the 6 inch wheels I bought were wider than stock and could handle the 215R75 X 15 whitewall radials I put on them.  That was a big bonus for me because I bought them in Feb and didn't have to stand around outside in the cold wind to blast them.

 

They fit perfectly,and all I had to do when they came in was to degrease,prime,and paint them. I can sell the original wheels that were on the 51 to a restorer for more money than that,and didn't even have to sandblast them.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-51-5610

 

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