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Andrew50

'50 Dodge B-2 Series Stepside Truck Repairs

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Hello.  I've taken on a project to tune and repair the truck in the subject line.  This truck has very nice green/black paint and a very nice interior.  My mission is to check and repair as needed.  These are noted initially:

 

Get the fuel gauge working
Tune up engine including new plugs and maybe a points conversion
Tighten the steering (as much as possible)

Check the brakes for any needed repairs.  Per the attached picture it seems the brakes may be ok.
 

Spending some time with it I have these questions:

 

I am finding this truck in pretty good shape. The king pins allow just a little slop of the wheels when off the ground. Measured maybe .100" at the top of the tires.  I doubt new kingpins will reduce this much.   The tie rod ends and all are tight. The air cleaner element visually looks pretty clean, I will replace the oil in the reservoir.  Any specific oil that should be used?

Both ends of the front leaf spring supports need new bushings. I figured they allowing the springs to slop around negatively affecting steering.

I found about 15 psi in the front tires with a large patch of rubber on the ground. With the tire max pressure at 65 I inflated the front to 50 and rear to 40. This should reduce steering effort.

I tightened the steering box nut one turn. With the wheels off the ground there is no slop when changing directions. I don't want to over tighten this adjustment.

I drained the oil. What oil and how many quarts for this truck? I found a metal oil filter in the filter canister that I suspect is incorrect as it is not tall enough to contact the upper clamping portion of the canister. It just sits there with no clamping pressure. I don't think the Fram PB 1/2P would fit properly. I turkey basted the remaining oil from the filter canister. Should this have one of the sock type filters?

How do I adjust the timing? The book says so many degrees from cylinder #6. I will replace the plugs and he gave the go-ahead to put an electronic points conversion in the distributor. Don't know if I will or not. What do you guys think?

 

How might I firm up the shifter linkage? Looking from below it seems in pretty good shape.


I suspect the fuel gauge is not connected. Will check that out. While the underside of the truck is mostly rust free, just some occasional surface rust,  the fuel tank has surface rust and an obvious leakage repair. Some kind of epoxy applied across the bottom surface.  I plan to replace the tank and the gauge sending unit.  This truck is 12v converted, does this affect the function of the fuel gauge?

 

Fortunately he does have a Shop Manual B-2 Series with very good instructions even to the details of rebuilding the transmission.  Fortunately rebuilding the tranny isn't needed.

 

I initially posted questions in The Garage Journal.  They were helpful but I understand this forum us where the collection of experts reside.  https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390297 

 

If allowed I'll post some photos on here a little later today.

 

I'm building a basket of parts with these folks.  https://dcmclassics.com/ 

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Andrew
 

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Edited by Andrew50

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Nice looking truck.

I'll let someone else verify the air filter oil, but I believe anything SAE 30  or heavier would work.

 

The filter canister looks the same as mine, a Deluxe Filter, which uses the sock type filter. Is there any information stamped into the top cover ? If it is a Deluxe Filter, it would specify a JC filter element. I recommend the Baldwin JC405. It's a better fit than the Wix, or Napa, filter.

 

The fuel gauge may be disconnected after the 12v conversion. It would need a voltage reducing resistor to lower the supply voltage. Also, if the sender, and tank, aren't well grounded the gauge won't work either. That is fairly common on these older trucks, especially if the tank has been painted, or coated.

 

The horn doesn't look right for a Dodge. The back isn't as rounded on the original horns. However, why would you want to put a 6 volt horn on if converted to 12 volts?

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Engine oil - Shell Rotella, due to additives that plays nice with our flathead six engines. Specifically zinc additive (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, ZDDP) is popular. Many add a dose of MMO (Marvel Mystery oil) too.

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Horn - https://photos.app.goo.gl/VSpvU2DYQdxkUbID3

 

Fuel guage - Not operated by volts, but rather resistance.  Common failures are decayed wire (should be only 1 wire) and or bad ground. I'm no expert however as my new DCM acquired sender didn't solve my problem. Will try adding a new ground next.

Edited by FlashBuddy

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23 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Nice looking truck.

I'll let someone else verify the air filter oil, but I believe anything SAE 30  or heavier would work.

 

The filter canister looks the same as mine, a Deluxe Filter, which uses the sock type filter. Is there any information stamped into the top cover ? If it is a Deluxe Filter, it would specify a JC filter element. I recommend the Baldwin JC405. It's a better fit than the Wix, or Napa, filter.

 

The fuel gauge may be disconnected after the 12v conversion. It would need a voltage reducing resistor to lower the supply voltage. Also, if the sender, and tank, aren't well grounded the gauge won't work either. That is fairly common on these older trucks, especially if the tank has been painted, or coated.

 

The horn doesn't look right for a Dodge. The back isn't as rounded on the original horns. However, why would you want to put a 6 volt horn on if converted to 12 volts?

I'll check out the Baldwin JC405 filter.  It does state to us "JC" filter and gasket on the lid.

Today I dropped the fuel tank and removed the fuel sending unit.  I plan to replace both.  Is there a specific fuel sending unit I should use with the 6-to-12 converted system?

I'll keep an eye open for a horn.  Is there any way to rebuild them for 12 volt application?

Thank you,

Andrew

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On ‎5‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 3:10 PM, FlashBuddy said:

Engine oil - Shell Rotella, due to additives that plays nice with our flathead six engines. Specifically zinc additive (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, ZDDP) is popular. Many add a dose of MMO (Marvel Mystery oil) too.

How many quarts does this engine require? 

How do I tell which flathead six engine size this is?

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On ‎5‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 3:45 PM, FlashBuddy said:

Horn - https://photos.app.goo.gl/VSpvU2DYQdxkUbID3

 

Fuel guage - Not operated by volts, but rather resistance.  Common failures are decayed wire (should be only 1 wire) and or bad ground. I'm no expert however as my new DCM acquired sender didn't solve my problem. Will try adding a new ground next.

Thank you for the photo of the horn.  Fuel gauge seems like it is going to be a bear to get going.  😕

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I believe it's 5 quarts, without a filter. May need up to 6 with a filter.

If it's the original engine it should be a 218 CID. Check the flat milled surface just above the generator. The engine number should be stamped there. If original it would be T172*_ _ _ _ .

Of you need to do some measuring. Measure the length of the head. 23" engines are basically 2 different displacements with the difference coming with the stroke. To measure the stroke you need to remove the small 1/8" pipe plug over #6 piston and measure the stroke length with a long piece of wire. That's the only way to know for sure.

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So how does one get these front suspension U-Joint bushings out?  My impact wrench barely moves the lower one and the upper one just laughs at the impact.  Saw through the U-Joint then press out the bushing?  I am hoping to do this without removing the leaf spring from the straight axle.  Soak them with some PB Blaster?

Or is it worth the effort to replace?

5B42CB97-3C60-4F83-9D13-1DDE95585006.jpeg

Edited by Andrew50

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Thanks Merle.  But that video makes it look easier than really is.  It seems to me.  I'll spray them down with PB Blaster and let 'em sit for a while.

 

Edit three hours later:  After letting the penetrating oil soak I maxed the air on my impact wrench and got the top one out.  I was able to pull the shackle from the lower bushing because of its excessive wear.  Then worked with and got that bushing out too.  So now I know I can do it and will order the needed parts.  I hope the front pin and bushing are not too difficult.

Edited by Andrew50

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Front drivers side is left hand thread, just like the lug nuts?

 

My new DCM Classics fuel gage is not working. Somebody here had a link to another fuel sender that might be a better choice. Here is the link, and its cheap!
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/mode=prod/prd276.htm

 

I went for a drive down a dirt raod, now my fuel gage is working. WoOT!

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Edited by FlashBuddy

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1 hour ago, Andrew50 said:

  Is there any way to rebuild them for 12 volt application?

Thank you,

Andrew

 

My truck was converted to 12 volts 20 years ago.  The 6 volt horn is working fine still.  The only difference on 12 volts is it's a lot LOUDER than on 6 volts.

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Yep, that's the right horn.

 

You'll need to drop the voltage going to the fuel gauge.

 

I recommend something like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Heavy-Duty-Electric-12-Volt-To-6-Volt-Reducer-Resistor-For-Fans-Motors/162723814029?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

Take one of the wires off of the fuel gauge and measure across both posts with an ohm meter. You should get a reading of 25-45 ohms.

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Is $66 a fair price for this horn?  I can clean and paint but it ultimately has to work.  I see on line instructions to restore similar horns.

 

That 12v to 6v converter is noted to buy later if needed.  I'll check the ohm reading of the fuel gauge.

 

Thanks for all the help.

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$66 seems steep to me, but I haven’t priced one lately. I recall that I gave $25 for a set of duals at a local swap meet 10+ years ago. 

 

Do the horns on the truck not work, or are you trying to achieve a more period correct look?

Edited by Merle Coggins

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I am trying to achieve original appearance and sound.   The horns on the truck do work.  Not absolute to change them out but would like to. 

Edited by Andrew50

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On 5/7/2018 at 12:46 PM, Merle Coggins said:

 

 However, why would you want to put a 6 volt horn on if converted to 12 volts?

 

 

??

 

the 6v horn will work fine on 12v.  my truck was converted to 12v, and has the original horn, which works great, and has since i bought the truck in 2007.

 

 

 

 

 

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I converted my B3B to 12 volts and installed 1ohm 100 watt resisters in series with the heater fan, wipers and horn,  what I used was something like https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Ohm-100W-Watt-Power-Aluminum-Shell-Resistance-Shell-Case-Wirewound-Resistor/253391459239?epid=1593151861&hash=item3aff4ed3a7:g:tkgAAOSwItJaa~20

Bill

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10 hours ago, bosworth said:

converted my B3B to 12 volts and installed 1ohm 100 watt resisters in series with the heater fan, wipers and horn,  what I used was something like https://www.ebay.com

 

Did these give appropriate speeds for the wipers and heater and volume for the  horn?

Did you mount the on any type of heat sink?

Have you checked the resistors temperature during use?

I tried to use some resistors for my 6v. horns and choke and burned too many up and just use them for short periods without any and they do work but I do not want to burn up somewhat hard to find and getting expensive parts!

 

Thanks for your time,

DJ

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