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Large hole in floor


greg g

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The stock trans is being held on by a loose bolt a guide pin and force of habit.  Got my brother and friend coming on Sunday to assist with the remove and replace. Noticed that me e brake cable is popping strands where it goes through the guide assembly.  Any idea if the cable can be replaced through the sheath.  Any idea what size and how long?  And a poll for of users,what are you using for lube.  

I have heard different ideas from gl 1 straight 80 to 20w50 synth motor oil.

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The OD is in, drive shaft and linkage reattached.  Got to get speedo cable extension connect the e brake cable. Wire it up. Napa had some straight 90 gl 1, since I don't operate in the cold, figured I can skip the 80 w part.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So the lump is in, the wires are run, the gl 1 is in, just need to trim the control cable and button up the floor center. Then if the trans mission actually works, I need to get it over to the body shop and get some floor patching done near thae A pillars, then the carpet can go in and should be be ready for the season, after mounting some new front tires.  These have about 45,000 miles with about 5/32 of tread left.  Not bad for cheapie Uniroyals from Waly world.Maybe might make the village Memorial Day Parade after all.

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Some company, in years past, made a speedo cable described as for (among others) a P15 with overdrive transmission.....it was

just a little longer than stock.    Bought it on eBay several years ago.    Do not recall what brand or model number it was.....just in a box and looked like any other cable.   Then.....the Joplin tornado of 2011 caused me to lose

numerous items being saved for my car, including that longer cable.  You might check on eBay for anyone offering  a lot of

speedo cables......correspond with them to see if they might happen to  have the overdrive model.  I have not done that, but

guess I should take my own advice.

 

I have used carpet in my car, as I cannot locate the rubber front mat nor the horsehair rear carpet.....nor the

rubber trunk mat.  Some fellows have used some rubber mats as sold at Lowes or Home Depot......might

possibly be useful, but don't know what size it comes in.  

 

Edited by BobT-47P15
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I looked in my Plym Parts Manual and could not find a listing for the speedometer cable.......guess they called it something

else.   Anyway.......who knows the standard length of the original P15  speedo cable?

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I looked in my AC speedometer casing catalog and here is the information that I have on file from 1934-1947

 

  Ply speedometer cables.pdf

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

Ply speedometer cables p2.pdf

Edited by desoto1939
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I see Rich, desoto1939,  found in his AC speedometer catalog that the P15 uses 58 7/32 long =no O D=.  

It says the 41 Plymouth with an OD should use 83 11/32.......should be fairly close to P15.

 

I contacted eBay seller belair2door, who said his info shows a regular speedo cable for a P15, no OD, is 63".  

 

He said a person can use either a 73" or 83" cable depending on what they feel is needed.

 

  https://www.ebay.com/itm/47-48-PLYMOUTH-SPEEDOMETER-CABLE-1947-1948-FREE-SHIPPING-IN-THE-U-S-A/230930310117?hash=item35c484e3e5:g:s8MAAOSwYxBaPTgq  

 

Hope this info proves helpful.

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I was able to get some slack under the dask and down the firewall to get the stock one hooked up with out undue stretching or stress.  Will see how it works and react accordingly.  

 

While considering things, I believe I overfilled the boxes with gear lube due to the angle of the car on jack stands. Any concerns about maybe 4 to 6 ounces too much.  Suppose I could let it down and let it out but the stuff makes such a mess even with a drip tray and rags.  It is the automotive equivalent of mustard when it escapes.

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I'm going to have to put a clutch in my '48 pretty soon. I have an overdrive unit out of a '52 Plymouth Cambridge 2 door. Will I have to do any modifications to make this fit? I know I will have to source some parts as not all of them are present. Mainly what I'm worried about are drive line and mounts. Any and all help appreciated.

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No modifications are necessary for the physical change. My unit measured 1/2 inch longer than the standard three speed, take the shift selectors from you current unit and transfer them to the "Od"box. The drive shaft trunion took up the half inch difference with no problem. Your speedo cable may need to be swapped for a longer one as the od drive is a bit further back and on the other side. I found enough slack under the dash and at the firewall cable retaining clamp to reach the new location without putting too sharp a curve in it.  Wireing at first blush looks a bit daunting but its not once you understand the system it explains itself. Wired as factory spec makes it an automatic deal once the cable is pulled out. The only thing you might not like about factory set up is the need to apply full throttle for the kick down to work.  There is a work around to disengage " od" without the adrenaline rush of wide open throttle. Unless you are pumped up, you as probable need a transmission jack and an assistant.  G

 

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Thanks, Greg.

 

I am definitely not "pumped up" along with my age and slight medical problems. I have a young cousin who lives nearby that has a '41 Chevy and we enjoy working on our old cars together when we get the time. I will ask him to help when I've got all the pieces gathered.

 

I will probably have more questions along the way and appreciate any help and information but it will take some time as we both work and have families. My '48 has been in the family since the 1970's so it ain't going nowhere.

 

Forgot to ask. What is this work around to kick it down?

Edited by Silverdome
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3 minutes ago, Silverdome said:

Thanks, Greg.

 

I am definitely not "pumped up" along with my age and slight medical problems. I have a young cousin who lives nearby that has a '41 Chevy and we enjoy working on our old cars together when we get the time. I will ask him to help when I've got all the pieces gathered.

 

I will probably have more questions along the way and appreciate any help and information but it will take some time as we both work and have families. My '48 has been in the family since the 1970's so it ain't going nowhere.

Ahhhh,a 41 Chevy! Maybe my favorite Chevy. Has one of the most beautiful dashboards ever put in a car.

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6 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

Ahhhh,a 41 Chevy! Maybe my favorite Chevy. Has one of the most beautiful dashboards ever put in a car.

Yeah, even through the surface rust and dirt I can tell it was beautiful back in its day. His car sat outside for many years with missing and broke windows so it's not as pretty as it once was. It was in our family for quite a while also but his dad had to sell it when he was younger and going through a divorce. The guy that bought it was a junk collector and didn't take very good care of it for the years he owned it. The boy bought it back when he was able to and has started bringing it back to life. It runs like a top and drives nicely but it has a long , long way to go.

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Rather than wiring the kick down switch, I wired the control side of the relay with a push pull switch mounted to 

my signal switch mounting bracket.. The factory system is ready electrically when ever ign. is on and OD cable is out.   The cable closes the lockout switch allowing continuity for the grounding circuit of the relay through the governor when it reaches cut in speed.  Kinda like the horn button providing ground path for the horn relay.  The kick down switch provides the off position for the circuit, but does so only at  wide open throttle. There are times where you might want to disengage without wanting to go to WOT.  The power side of the relay needs heavy wire at least 10 gauge or even heavier. The pull in circuit runs at 20 amps, the hold in coil pulls about 12/15.  I ran the batt terminal directly from the neg battery clamp to the relay. The ign terminal is my switched circuit,  the relay solenoid terminal connects to the #4 terminal on the solenoid. With the absence of the cut out circuit the #6 terminal on the solenoid is not used. The ground for the relay runs through the lockout switch to the governor.  This can be 12 or 14 gauge wire, as can the power wire to the relay ign. terminal.

 

So to recap, the control side of the relay power from a hot with ign on source, switched or not your choice, depending your use of the kick down circuit, the relay ground goes through the lockout switch to the governor.  When the governor grounds, the relay closes the power side providing the high amp circuit from battery to the solenoid. What parts are you waiting for??

Edited by greg g
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Off the top of my head I know I don't have the cable to engage the O.D. and I believe my brother told me he didn't get the solenoid. The O.D. unit was on my dads car that my brother ended up scrapping after he removed some of the more desirable and less worn parts. It's sitting in the corner of my machine shed at the moment. When I pull it out to look at what I need I'll let you know more.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well finally, wheels down around the block 2x.  No noise, no leaks, speedo works.  Did not go for the od yet, didn't exceed 35 mph. Just wanted to get things up to temp and check everything over. I think I have a bit of a corrosion problem with the od relay fuse holder.  Needs some more attention to provide a good current flow. Will attend to it shortly.  The carpet set I got from stock interiors.com is far from factory fit  it needs some serious measuring and cuttings for pedals, and dimmer switch.  And the cut and sew they do for the trans hump leaves much to be desired.  Is it worth 170 bucks???  Have to think hard on that.  Once in it still has wrinkles, and bunches of extra material where the shouldn't be any.  Maybe with some heat from the exhaust and engine it will get better used to the contours and lay better. Maybe some one with better skills could do a more precise job and have a better result.  I will get some pics  tomorrow.

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1 hour ago, greg g said:

Well finally, wheels down around the block 2x.  No noise, no leaks, speedo works.  Did not go for the od yet, didn't exceed 35 mph. Just wanted to get things up to temp and check everything over. I think I have a bit of a corrosion problem with the od relay fuse holder.  Needs some more attention to provide a good current flow. Will attend to it shortly.  The carpet set I got from stock interiors.com is far from factory fit  it needs some serious measuring and cuttings for pedals, and dimmer switch.  And the cut and sew they do for the trans hump leaves much to be desired.  Is it worth 170 bucks???  Have to think hard on that.  Once in it still has wrinkles, and bunches of extra material where the shouldn't be any.  Maybe with some heat from the exhaust and engine it will get better used to the contours and lay better. Maybe some one with better skills could do a more precise job and have a better result.  I will get some pics  tomorrow.

 I want to "like" your post,but have a hard time "liking" reading about someone getting screwed on a carpet set. It is good to know who NOT to buy carpet sets from,though,and I thank you for that.

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On 5/2/2018 at 7:20 PM, dpollo said:

Too bad about the mat.  It is not necessary to remove the floorboard.  The whole job can be done from underneath.

When i added overdrive to my 53 it would not fit with out cutting and modding my floor pan.  The e brake drum hit the floorboard and prevented installation. 

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4 hours ago, p24-1953 said:

When i added overdrive to my 53 it would not fit with out cutting and modding my floor pan.  The e brake drum hit the floorboard and prevented installation. 

that is odd as the 53 could have come with it from the factory. Did you go from plain standard 3 spd to overdrive?

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