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Dale Gribble

I bought another old dodge !

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My '47 Plymouth title matches the door jamb number.. It was last titled in Arkansas.. Let me know if taking your title and an ID/OD into DMV will get them to change numbers on the title.. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I hear someone in the basement... engine sounds a little loose. :eek:

 

"Keep a knockin' but you can't come in, come back tomorrow night and try it again...." :D

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These flatheads can run like that ( a little loose sounding) for a long time with thicker oil and decent oil pressure:)

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On May 5, 2018 at 7:30 PM, Dale Gribble said:

Seems to hold around 40 psi at idle , so I don't think there's a oil issue . Just an old issue .... At any rate , I'm thinking I want to go 12v , is it a hard mod ? 

 

Nothing wrong with 6 volt. You need to make sure all connections are clean. Most importantly, you need to have the right size battery cables for good starting. 12 V cables are too thin. Do a search of the forum as there is a lot of information on the cables. I have four old 6 volt Mopars and no problems. Two are original harnesses and two are new.

 

Interesting project by-the-way!

Edited by RobertKB

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 Interesting note O'Reillys auto parts seems to stock most of the brake parts aside from the shoes . The previous owner just replace the master cylinder and it hasn't even had time to get a coating of surface rust so I will leave it be . 

image.jpeg

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On 4/24/2018 at 10:30 AM, Dale Gribble said:

And and no need to grow up to buy these , I'm only 33 ,

I just got to this thread, nice. But the age thing. . . , Double your 33, and raise it 14 more to get to me. I'm trying to even remember 33, 1971, Nam war, peace nicks, draft dodgers, you probably don't know what the draft was! Hippies in VW vans, Woodstock, 1969, line was so long I turned back! 

Edited by pflaming

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Another 6V user here. It works just fine. Lights are bright. It turns the 7:1 compression flat head 6 just fine.

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4 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

Another 6V user here. It works just fine. Lights are bright. It turns the 7:1 compression flat head 6 just fine.

Craving a modern sound system in my antique car ...... Guess I'll explore 6v options .... Or glass packs , lol 

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A modern sound system would be nice I will admit. I have a 12V power pack in the trunk if I ever need a boost. I have not used it yet, only on other people's cars. I do use the USB charges on it for my iphone though. 

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a 6v-12v 10A converter costs about $30. As long as you don't need an amp or a million jiggawatt stereo, you can get by with that..  Positive ground 6v has as much energy potential as 12v negative ground. It was 6v negative ground that was known for draining batteries and slow cranks

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Not any more 'efficient'. The frame/ body being 'live', makes the current more direct, and the starters can actually turn faster.. It was explained to me by a guy who restored old Ford "N" tractors. And after having a '51 Chevy with a good electrical system, and now with a '50 plymouth with a good electrical system I believe it. The Chevy I could not trust. If I didn't hit it just right on a hot start it would kill the brand new battery from slow crank. The Plymouth, hot or cold I don't have to worry.. It cranks as fast as a 12v would, and the battery lasts several cranks. I don't even know how old the battery is ( likely 1yr old ) and I still trust it.. Might not be written in stone but it does make a difference

 

 

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Nothing wrong with 6 or 12 volt. Do what you feel works for you and your car. If you want a nice stereo, just go 12 and be done. I'm going 12v but I'm running a Langdon hei and going to add a/c for my girlfriend. Otherwise, I would have stuck with 6. 

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Unless you are building a 100 point restoration, there is no reason to stay 6 volt and fuss with inverters for your 12 volt needs.  Just convert it to 12 volts and be done.  

 

Adam

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If all you need is a radio, then a $29 converter on an isolated circuit is no big deal. Start looking in to HEI or other 12v ignitions then it makes little sense.. You'll still need ceramic reducers for things like the heater motor, so it's not gaining anything by going either way.

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On May 11, 2018 at 10:52 AM, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Unless you are building a 100 point restoration, there is no reason to stay 6 volt and fuss with inverters for your 12 volt needs.  Just convert it to 12 volts and be done.  

 

Adam

Certainly nowhere near a 100 point restoration ..... Just a old RELIABLE beat up ugly driver that I don't have to worry about leaving in a parking lot ... 

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6 minutes ago, Dale Gribble said:

Certainly nowhere near a 100 point restoration ..... Just a old RELIABLE beat up ugly driver that I don't have to worry about leaving in a parking lot ... 

and.....in the same token, be less liable to leave you in the parking lot.....both have their merits....but as for keeping it just to keep it and THEN use devices that drain even more power to convert for a device you wish to have on your car....you are taxing a dynamo that is limited and barely adequate to sustain the car as it is.

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no more than going completely through the 6 volt to bring it up to a dependable system with the larger cables and good connections.  In my opinion and per my findings, the only way to keep a viable 6 volt system for the infrequent driven car is with a Optima battery.....maybe it is just my area but I have never found a battery of any quality in 6 volt from any local retailer, never a group 2 and none come with a warranty or prorated exchange program...so again, it all depends on what you want, how much you intend to drive the car, what accessories you intend to run.  The 6 volt when at its peak of service is more than capable, but it takes little for it to degrade.  Service parts are not on the average a walk up to the counter and pay and play.  Weight it out for yourself..

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