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Is this valve/tappet noise???


jimy

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23 hours ago, Hickory said:

Hey Don, did you purposely match your engine to your snap-on ratchet lol.   I haven't adjusted valves on one of these engines yet, but it's kinda odd to adjust the #2&5 intake valves twice isn't it?

 

I just started adjusting my valves and I have the same question about some of the valves being mentioned twice in the procedure included above (which is from this forums tech tips section, with some handwritten additions).  After doing some forum searches, several people have said those instructions are incorrect and valve adjustment can't be done with just two crank positions. 

 

Does anyone have further thoughts on this?

 

Jim

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Turn the engine over to rotate the rotor to line up with each distributor cap spark plug wire......adjust both valves for the corresponding cylinder.

 

To turn the engine over I remove the plugs and use the fan to turn the engine over. Leaning over the drivers fender I pull the fan towards me.

If the fan and pulley slips and won't rotate the crankshaft  (slightly loose belt)  just push down on the fan belt with two fingers. The engine will now easily roll over.

 

No uncertainty as to which valve/valves are ready to be adjusted.

 

I've done it that way for years. 

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2 hours ago, jimy said:

 

I just started adjusting my valves and I have the same question about some of the valves being mentioned twice in the procedure included above (which is from this forums tech tips section, with some handwritten additions).  After doing some forum searches, several people have said those instructions are incorrect and valve adjustment can't be done with just two crank positions. 

 

Does anyone have further thoughts on this?

 

Jim

It can be done with 2 crank positions but the instructions are wrong I found that out when I adjusted mine during my recent overhaul. As stated Some valves is listed twice . I’ll have to look and see if I have it wrote done correctly.

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4 minutes ago, Branded said:

It can be done with 2 crank positions but the instructions are wrong I found that out when I adjusted mine during my recent overhaul. As stated Some valves is listed twice . I’ll have to look and see if I have it wrote done correctly.

 

 

Here are my notes that I corrected during my rebuild. E denotes exhaust, you’ll see BOTH in the printed instructions is marked out

 

 

48865F16-4110-4C7D-9C3C-4BB96645F93D.jpeg

Edited by Branded
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1,5,3,6,2,4. Crank throws as seen here. Every 120 degrees the next cylinder is at TDC. Take out all sparkplugs if you like for ease. You can use your fan blade for reference and turn it by hand to set up the next pair of valves to set. It will take two full revolutions of the crank to get through all valves in your 6 cylinder engine.

smooth_6cylinder.jpg

 

Set them cold, then set them again when hot.  I set up everything in the driveway. Took out the inner fender window. Went for a drive and got everything hot. Then when I got in the driveway,  like a one man pit crew I pulled everything off  to get in there and set the valves hot. It worked very well and car runs very smooth & quiet.

 

https://youtu.be/aameeYT7SXQ

 

 

Edited by keithb7
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I'm still slowly getting things together.  Yesterday I made a new adjustment plate for the manual heat riser setup (pictured below).   I'm ready to start reassembly, unless I decide to paint the manifolds so stay tuned.

 

BTW should I put any sort of gasket sealer on any of the manifold gaskets?

 

Jim

IMG_3492.JPG

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I finally have it together and fired it up this afternoon.  It runs pretty darn quiet now!   I'm guessing that whatever minor noises I hear are normal or will go away when I put the tappet covers back on.

 

Thanks for all the help.  I'm going to enjoy the truck much more without that annoying tick...

 

Jim

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