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Sun D1 Tach


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Hello All,

Here is a photo of a Sun D1 tach I picked up. I was looking for just the light housing to finish the D1 tach I have on my WC-12, but ended up buying the whole gauge. Gauge is not working, but I don’t care. The main thing is the light works. The gauge also has the pointer and the pointer hold down bracket. These gauges are hard to find and expensive. There are 2 on e-bay. One is $650.00 NOS and a rebuilt one for $450.00.  $53.00 including shipping is a bargain in my book for just the light housing itself. Once in a while I do get lucky buying pArts at a bargain. LOL.

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Aren't these the ones that require some sort of sending unit?  I found a few awhile back and have them tucked away in a safe place...whenever I find them again, I believe there are a few outfits that can do a solid-state conversion that eliminates the sending unit for a reasonable fee :cool:

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Hi JBNeal,

Yes, this tach needs a Transmitter to work. Thing is, I’m not sure if this gauge would run on 12 volts. It could be a 6 volt 6 cylinder gauge set up only. The Data plate on the Transmitter box lists the model of the box, the voltage required and the number of cylinders needed to run the box. I also have 2 or 3 spare model E transmitter boxes along with a good running spare D-1 3500 RPM tach and an NOS D-3 5000 RPM tach. I really love the old school aviation type gauge look. 

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I had a working E2 Sun Tach and transmitter in my 2-1/2 tonner for years and took it out as the trucks life and need is over. I am in the process of restoring this 6 volt, 6 cylinder Sun Tach....

It was in the truck when I bought it  around 1974. The light always worked too.

Sun Tach D-1 Transmitter E-2 (8).JPG

Sun Tach D-1 Transmitter E-2 (2).JPG

Sun Tach D-1 Transmitter E-2 (6).JPG

resized_Factory Sun Tach 1947.jpg

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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Hi Dodgeb4ya,

You sure can’t beat the look of the “D” model Tachs that’s for sure. I used Rust-Oleum gloss black on the gauge and light housing. I wanted to mount the tach on the steering column so here is what I did. I bought a slightly smaller diameter PVC slip cap to fit over the back of the gauge. Had a friend of mine open it up just a bit on his lathe to provide a resistance fit over the back of the gauge. Drilled holes for the wires in the cap, painted it gloss black and bought a Sun mounting kit for the steering column. Looks a little massive, but there are no exposed wires and terminals showing behind the gauge. 

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