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bluefoxamazone

water tube question

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1 hour ago, classiccarjack said:

I can achieve the same results...  After busting my butt with coat hangers, steel rods, and using a power washer.  THEN I will wire wheel down the block....

 

I like your method much better!  Why didn't I think of that?  Neato!

some setup pics of the kidney transfusion......:-)

spoelen2.jpg

spoelen1.jpg

Edited by bluefoxamazone

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7 hours ago, Andydodge said:

Bluefox...that looks nice and clean tho' I am curious whether the derusting and phosphorus acid has left any sort of film or coating that maybe loosened over time and float around the water jackets.........have you given any thought to installing one of those water filter things that are installed usually in the upper radiator hose?...........andyd   

The phosphorous acid treatment just developed a mono molecular layer of phosphor oxide at the iron surface once the iron oxide is gone (rust); We are not talking about a coating that can chip off, so I do not worrie about such a thing no.. After seeing the debree leftover in the bottom of the enigine block I should worry more over this... ;-) I think 75% of the water distribution pipe simply rotted away and the remains were  laying in the lower part of the engine.

I think it is now important to put a modern cooling fluid in the engine that has an rust inhibiting working by means of an oxygen binding component. Then the cast iron block will be fine altough all modern blocks are made out of aluminium... we'll see in 30 years what has happened...

Edited by bluefoxamazone

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Curious on how the water distribution tube would get from the cooling system into the oiling system?

 

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On 3/12/2018 at 10:50 PM, bluefoxamazone said:

some setup pics of the kidney transfusion......:-)

spoelen2.jpg

spoelen1.jpg

That car looks amazing!  Thanks for the pictures of how it's done.  Very neat idea!

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hello Folks,

yesterday we did a test on the cooling system after replacing the water distribution tube and a complete de-rusting of the internal engine as I discribed above. These are the results of the Belgian jury...

Engine ran stationary for about 1 hour:

water temperature measured in the radiator opening: 190.4 °F

image.png.45f9c327832bc982eaa4ba56300d648d.png

 

then measured along the head on this spot: between 225°F and 235°F

image.png.269b24c9cdccb71e4a7b37cfcb17ef14.png

reading on gauge:

image.png.382e16d60249cf47ca3789471aa1754c.png

 

After letting my additonally added ventilator run the temperature of the water dropped and the reading was dead on in the middle of the scale..

What do you guys think, am I ready to go...?

 

cheers!

Franky

Edited by bluefoxamazone

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I would also suggest that you put in a pint of waterpump lube and antirusting agnet. i come in a 16 oz pint bottler. This anti rusting agent is what helps the antifreeze keep up the anti rusting inhibitors.  When the Af turn brown the anti rust agents have wornout.  The Af still might be good to keep the system from freezing but the rust inhibutor have gone away.  I put a [pont in every year to help keep the rust inhibutor up to par.  cost around $4.00 here in the states.

every little pit of protection helps.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com 

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I always flare mine to fit the block.  More important is to look at the plate at the back of the water pump.  It is most times so far off that it is not a good match at all.  I "port match" the back of the water pump to the block so that flow will not have turbulence and most of the water will go into the tube.  I even had my machine shop jet cut me a few stainless steel plates for the water pumps.  It is amazing how after only 5 or 6 years the back plates start to degrade inside the water pump. 

 

 

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Does this include your DeSoto Suburban?  I haven't removed my pump yet but I'll be getting there eventually. I'll make a copy of your post and maybe get in touch with you then.  I'm not certain that when you talk about the back plate, which I'm sure will be evident once I remove the pump, I'm assuming that this plate is a separate part between the block and the pump. Is this plate available? And are you saying that the holes will not line up perfectly? And how do you flare a WD tube that isn't?

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Bing.......the plate is a mild steel plate that bolts onto the rear of the water pump, its approx  1/8 - 3/32 thick, you can see the edge of the plate even with the water pump bolted onto the engine...........the water tube being sheet metal is easy to flare the ends of the tube by just inserting a steel bar or even a screwdriver into the tube when its installed and bending the ends outwards..............JD's idea to port match the plate is a good idea, maybe even shamferring the water pump side of the plate a little wouldn't do any harm I'd think so the water flows into the tube...............andyd   

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