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Speaking of brakes...


ebruns1

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Fellas,

I've pulled all the old lines, hoses, innards etc. basically everything related to completely replace the rotted out old brakes.  I've heard mention of a special tool to install or adjust the new shoes.  Is there any work around for this or do I have to have it?  The drums were good with plenty of meat on them so I had my buddy from the Ford V8 club turn them at his towing and truck service station.  I have yet to order the rest of the components but I'm staying all stock as I don't have the skills to upgrade to discs and swap rear ends.  Seems like a stock set up works fine if it's adjusted properly and drive conservatively.  So, back to the question, what does this specailty tool actually do for you?  One of my friends suggested putting sandpaper inside the drums and sanding the curve of the brake shoes to match so that there is 100% contact between the shoe and drum for better stopping.  Does this work for a 48 Dodge set up?  Do I still need the special tool?  Thanks!

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I remember a thread a long time ago where someone on the forum made a tool.  Seems like they said it worked ok, they may have been biased who knows. If you do some searching it may come up or they may chime in.   I set mine up without the proper tool, I drove it around a bit then started on the other issues the car had like the knocking sound coming from the engine.  I was satisfied and somewhat impressed with how it stopped.  Maybe I got lucky, maybe your opinion on how mine stopped would be different.  My son's '52  Cranbrook's brakes were set up by the previous owner. I know he didn't have the tool.  It's never stopped quite as well as my '46 did, have never really dug into it to see why.  This is debated often on this site, everyone has an  own opinion about it. I would think it might rank 3rd behind oil and trans swaps as the most debated subject.  If I had known how cheap and easy it was to switch to disk and that it was a bolt on kit that's what I would have done to begin with ( and  will at some point ).  Search the subject, a lot of good reading and info on here, good luck.

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You can install all new brake shoes have drums machine if needed.

Set major adjuster to factory spec adjust minor to slight drag.

It takes times but the shoe lining will wear into drum radiaii.

Keep adjusting minor adjusters periodically to achieve best brakes.

Or adjust new brakes witha Miller or Ammco tool after having shoes arced to drums resulting in instant great brakes.

With some " wear in" and adjustment these brakes can be very good.

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The tool you need is an Ammco 1750 brake adjusting tool.  It is used to adjust Lockheed designed brakes.  Mopars up to the early1960’s used these brakes, as did Ford products of the late 1930’s and 1940’s.  You mentioned having a friend in the Ford V8 club, ask if he has, or knows someone who has a tool that you could borrow.  

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4 hours ago, busycoupe said:

The tool you need is an Ammco 1750 brake adjusting tool.  It is used to adjust Lockheed designed brakes.  Mopars up to the early1960’s used these brakes, as did Ford products of the late 1930’s and 1940’s.  You mentioned having a friend in the Ford V8 club, ask if he has, or knows someone who has a tool that you could borrow.  

 

The MIller 1750 is pretty much unattainable now. I've seen prices as high as $600. If you go with stock brakes and borrow one then you may have to borrow it again sometime down the line. Its best to have your own tool which if you cant plan on paying for the Miller then you should look at making one.

There is a good article right here in Technical/Brakes section that may help.

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Keithb7,

 

If that is all the specialty tool does, from looking at the photo I could make something similar in a half hour or less!  Thank for sharing your photo...so I assume you use the feeler pin to set the brake shoes so they are concentric around the hub.  Is that all there is to it?  Now I'm much less intimidated about setting up the drums if I decide to go that way.  I'm still going to look into the disc swap idea.  Can I still use an original single master to run front and rear discs with a proportioning valve?  Or do I have to go through all the custom mods to convert to a dual master?  That part I'm not confident I can do myself...

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