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My first classic


Hickory

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I used a roll pin punch for removal and a brass drift for installation. For the 3 ring vs 4 ring question, I would say yes the modern 3 ring piston would have a lower friction and a better ring material. I didn't want to go through all of the extra work and time, I just want to drive something that has driven fine for 70yrs.

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So I have a question about the rear main. I bought it from Andy and it's the neapream best seal. When intalled it rides on the beveled cut on the crank and pushes the crank all the way forward against the thrust washer. It makes it hard to rotate the engine over. This can't be right, there is to much pressure on the thrust.

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So last week I was able to get the rotating assembly in the block completely. I still feel that the rear main seal is awfully tight against the beveled cut on the crank. 

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Your rear main replacement seal is not right. Something is wrong. Fix it right.

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Pictures of the rear main bearing cap and block will someone knowledgeable on the different styles of seals used over the years. Some changed mid year production I have read.

 

DJ

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That seal is backwards as already noted.

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9 minutes ago, Hickory said:

Nearly every picture I try to upload says upload failed,.-200.   This is not due to picture size. What could be causing this lately

 

This site only allows maximum of 3mb pics, I use Photoscape to reduce pics to size.

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But like I had said it's not due to pic size that is a different notice

10 hours ago, maok said:

 

This site only allows maximum of 3mb pics, I use Photoscape to reduce pics to size.

 

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So I have ran across another issue. Some how a valve spring cup has been misplaced. I'm looking for a place to buy one or if anyone has one on a junk engine, I really could use one. On the rear main seal I reinstalled it correctly and thank you for seeing my stupidity. I guess I'm just use to modern diesel engines.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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