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Another 230 build thread


tom'sB2B

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1 hour ago, DJ194950 said:

Just my opinion but I would make every effort to find the correct length of throw out  bearing sleeve before install. At lot of work to just try.

I think there is a good chance that you will Not have enough adjustment to make the new shorter one work!

 

DJ

 

I agree, I highly doubt you have enough reach with the short throw out bearing to release the clutch..

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16 minutes ago, tom'sB2B said:

Yes. On consideration, I think you guys are right. I will try to find the correct sizes throw out bearing

 

Sent you a Private Message

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Put in the new throw-out bearing in this evening. Took me 3 hours start to finish. I’m getting pretty good at bench pressing that transmission back into place ? I will adjust the linkage tomorrow if the weather isn’t too crappy.

DC001C20-0BD2-46C8-BA6B-8F203EA00AA6.jpeg

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Tom's B2B,

Concerning the crankshaft sprocket oiler, does it just fit loosely in the oil supply hole? Also, what does the outlet hole look like? Mine is pinched shut . See pictures. Any guidance is appreciated.1803456243_34cranksprocketoiler.jpg.0b11403b0c30f51106cdc74d4a368509.jpg1958235062_34cranksprocketoiler2.jpg.6fed34ec005ec71c6b89e2be93d97d54.jpg

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Well, the tip has obviously been mushed. Take a look a the center hole and see if you can match up a drill to open it. It would be better to go smaller than larger. But what the drill size is - I don’t know. As to the fitment in the block, I’d try to bell the end so you get a nice snug fit. I would also examine the oiler position relative to the timing chain. Maybe it hits it and that’s how it was damaged.

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On 11/9/2018 at 10:48 PM, Don Coatney said:

I found a NOS fork on eBay several years ago.

 

fork1.jpg

 

 

You will also need these two springs.

 

MVC-002F-1.jpg

 

 

 

Do these two springs replace the factory clutch release bearing sleeve springs/ Referencing Henery M Rowell book dodge 1937-46, page 17, part 17

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15 hours ago, Hemibear426 said:

Tom's B2B,

Concerning the crankshaft sprocket oiler, does it just fit loosely in the oil supply hole? Also, what does the outlet hole look like? Mine is pinched shut . See pictures. Any guidance is appreciated.1803456243_34cranksprocketoiler.jpg.0b11403b0c30f51106cdc74d4a368509.jpg1958235062_34cranksprocketoiler2.jpg.6fed34ec005ec71c6b89e2be93d97d54.jpg

 

This is the best I have....   Didn’t ever thunk to measure the hole while the engine was apart... But it looks roughly 1/2 the diamater of the tube.  

 

C57F9214-43EE-40F4-9E9E-48225919E063.jpeg

Edited by thebeebe5
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Thats a great picture! Thanks a bunch! Mine obviously got caught up in the gear or chain some how. Is it orientated such that the oil stream would hit the center of the crank sprocket?

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Regarding the hole diameter for the timing chain/sprocket oil nozzle, I recently measured mine on two different engines.  One is an oiler off a 230 engine that I believe is from the late 40's or early 50's, and the other is off a 251 from the early 60's (the original Power Wagons were still coming off the line with flatheads of the 251 variety through the late 60's).  The 230 oil nozzle hole diameter is about 0.042", while the 251 oiler was about 0.056".  I determined this by inserting drill bits into the holes.

 

It should be noted that George Asche once told me to open up the holes in these oilers, as the chain and sprockets need more oil than the factory hole size will provide.  He couldn't recall exactly what diameter he likes to use, but he thought it was 1/16", which is 0.0625".  I went ahead and opened up the 251 nozzle by the few extra thousandths required to get to 1/16".

 

I don't know if the 230 nozzles are all smaller than the 251 nozzles, or if the early engines of all displacements had nozzles with smaller hole diameters than the later engines.  Many of the smaller (23") engines can use the same chain and sprockets as the 25" engines, and I believe that's the case with my 230 and 251, so I don't think the diameter difference is because of any difference in the type or size of timing chain/sprocket.

 

Bottom line is that you might consider opening up your damaged nozzle hole to a 1/16" diameter.

Edited by Matt Wilson
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10 hours ago, Hemibear426 said:

Thats a great picture! Thanks a bunch! Mine obviously got caught up in the gear or chain some how. Is it orientated such that the oil stream would hit the center of the crank sprocket?

 

Looks like yes. 

602DED59-FD1B-48B4-8CD3-964BE5A53B39.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Hemibear426 said:

Mr. Wilson,

 Thank you so much! Will use your recommended 1/16" hole diameter. Do I aim the oil stream at the center of the crank sprocket? 

Mike

You're quite welcome.  I don't have either of my engines assembled right now, so I can't tell for sure how the nozzle is aimed, but it looks like it squirts the oil along a line that is tangent to the crankshaft sprocket outer circle.  It almost looks like it would actually hit the chain, just above where the chain engages the sprocket, but it's hard to tell for sure.  It looks like it squirts a little bit in the forward direction too, so that it would hit the chain (or sprocket) at about the middle of the thickness of the chain (or sprocket).  It looks very much like the picture posted by thebeebe5 a couple of hours ago.

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I measured two Oiler tubes and they come out at basically .040" to 042"
Tube shown is slightly bent... not aimed correct as OE.

Oil Squirt Tube Timing Chain MoPar Six (26).JPG

Oil Squirt Tube Timing Chain MoPar Six .042.JPG

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