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Another 230 build thread


tom'sB2B

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I’ve started the process of rebuilding the engine in my 1947 Dodge. I would like to use this thread to ask questions along the way when I can’t find the answer using the the search function. 

The reason for rebuilding this engine is that it had low compression and also the possibility of a cracked block or head.

When I bought the car.a year ago the PO mentioned it might have a cracked block (probably why he sold it so cheap). I brought it home pulled the head gasket and found the cylinders full of coolant. Thought maybe just a bad gasket.Cleaned out the coolant. Drained the pan. Replaced gasket. Drove it for a couple of months. Still had low compression. Would still blow gray smoke sometimes on accelerating. I have dreams of making this car into a reliable, long distance driving car. To rebuild the engine seems to be an inevitability. What the hell. I’m doin it!

 

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10 minutes ago, tom'sB2B said:

Water distribution tube came out smoothly. Looks decent but will replace with new. Block was seriously gunked up

 

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Looking at all the rusty gunk at the freezplugs and the front of the block,I suspect you had some "hot spots" in the block. You are doing yourself a major favor by just cleaning that crap out so the water will flow like it's supposed to flow.

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Tom, nice looking 2dr sedan, as we never got anything but 4drs over in Oz I've always liked the look of 2drs whether a sedan,  coupe or convertible.........looks like your on a roll anyway with the teardown , it certainly appears to have had a few oil leaks judging by the amount of built up crud on the timing cover, I'm amazed at how previous owners can leave an engine to leak so much........it will appreciate your efforts..........regards, Andy Douglas   

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You seem to be off to a good start.  Once that block is boiled out and clean you will feel much better.

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Went by the machine shop to check on progress ( they’ve had the block and parts for over two weeks now). They said they had to hot tank the block and spray it out several times to get all the crap out ( no surprise). When in brought the block in, I expressed my concern that I thought it might be cracked. They magnaflux the block and head twice and found no cracks. 

So, that’s good news.

They cylinders will be bored .030

main and rods .010

head shaved .030

block shaved 0.010

 

 

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5 hours ago, tom'sB2B said:

Went by the machine shop to check on progress ( they’ve had the block and parts for over two weeks now). They said they had to hot tank the block and spray it out several times to get all the crap out ( no surprise). When in brought the block in, I expressed my concern that I thought it might be cracked. They magnaflux the block and head twice and found no cracks. 

So, that’s good news.

They cylinders will be bored .030

main and rods .010

head shaved .030

block shaved 0.010

 

 

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That's great news. Now you know you have a solid base to build on,and in the end will have an engine that will last for decades running modern oils with a minimum amount of repairs.

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I just went through all this with my Dodge 230. Done a lot of reading here before hand. Rebuild and assembly went fine. Engine is back in the Wayfarer and running. Haven’t had it on the road for a test drive yet due to the weather here in Indiana.

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Ordered parts today from Egg:

cam bearings

piston set with pins

valve springs

piston ring set

valve lifters

connecring rod bearings

pin bushings

main bearings

cam sprocket

crank sprocket

timing chain

exhaust valves

intake valves

guides

cam will be sent to Egge for grinding

crank will be ground locally

I haven’t decided what I’m going to do about reassembly. This is my first engine build and I’m not very confident in my ability to do it correctly and to make sure a procedure is not missed. I thought about asking the machine shop if I can do the assembly with them so I can learn. Then there is also the $ issue. It’s adding up pretty fast.

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2 hours ago, tom'sB2B said:

cam will be sent to Egge for grinding

 

An alternative you might want to consider is Delta Cams on the upper left coast. If you are after a stock cam,chances are they have one in stock they will mail out to you the day you call them,and refund the core charge once they get your old one.

 

They also weld up, grind,and heat treat solid lifters

 

Or if you want  a traditional 3/4 racing grind,stump puller grind,or anything in between,they can do that,too. Good people to work with. It's worth your time to send them a email to compare prices if nothing else.

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A humble approach with plenty of questions here might well get you well through the engine assembly. It would certainly make for an interesting thread. There’s plenty of helpful folks here with lots of experience. 

 

Am I wrong?

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If you want to learn how to do this, this is an excellent opportunity.  You learn by doing. You can weigh it out, anything you screw up can be fixed.  

 

I believe you can do it.

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2 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

An alternative you might want to consider is Delta Cams on the upper left coast. If you are after a stock cam,chances are they have one in stock they will mail out to you the day you call them,and refund the core charge once they get your old one.

 

They also weld up, grind,and heat treat solid lifters

 

Or if you want  a traditional 3/4 racing grind,stump puller grind,or anything in between,they can do that,too. Good people to work with. It's worth your time to send them a email to compare prices if nothing else.

Thanks. I mailed my cam to Egge an hour ago. So someone else will have to profit from your advice. 

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