Jump to content

"Ol Blue" Build


jmooner3

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, johnsartain said:

I ordered my bed strips and angle strips from DCM Classics. As it ended up, they came from  Horkey's as well. I guess Bruce Horkey supplies DCM and others as well

 

Yep, and if you want the ONLY vendor of stock style bed strips you have to talk to Midwest Military.  All others are Chevy/Ford profiles.

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the votes of confidence guys!. I'll get some inside pics, Seat and dash are refurbed, still need to do the roof insert and door cards.  Merle thanks for the info, the trans shifts well just not a lot of top end, so the rear end might be the right way to go for me. What is the ratio of the original rear axle?

 

I have the stainless strips from DCM and bought the hardware from ACE hardware  here in VT, I had some red oak trees cut in my yard and had a portable sawmill come here and cut into boards.  I just need to make the time to plane them and mill to size. But in keeping with this project theme - do all I can myself.... to me it's kinda cool that the wood grew on my land and now I'll make it part of this project.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The most common differential ratio in these trucks is 4.10:1.  Other ratios offered were 3.73, 4.30, and 4.78.

My truck had the 4.10 gears but I was able to make a trade with a former member that had a 3.73 diff out of a '50 Plymouth and was looking for a good 4.10 diff. The input yolk is different, due to driveshaft differences, but other than that it was a direct swap into my axle housing. With 3.73 gears I am able to cruise down the highway at 65-70 MPH, which puts my engine in the 3000 RPM range.

 

185042809_DiffIdentification.JPG.a941815b80ad37953ebacf4b1ae4dd45.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, jmooner3 said:

Thanks for the votes of confidence guys!. I'll get some inside pics, Seat and dash are refurbed, still need to do the roof insert and door cards.  Merle thanks for the info, the trans shifts well just not a lot of top end, so the rear end might be the right way to go for me. What is the ratio of the original rear axle?

 

I have the stainless strips from DCM and bought the hardware from ACE hardware  here in VT, I had some red oak trees cut in my yard and had a portable sawmill come here and cut into boards.  I just need to make the time to plane them and mill to size. But in keeping with this project theme - do all I can myself.... to me it's kinda cool that the wood grew on my land and now I'll make it part of this project.

 

done properly the strips do not just sit on the surface, they should be rabbited down a tich.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The metal strips are shevol strips. The strips' ridge should be above the surface of the wood so that when shevoling grain or sand or . . . the shevol will no dig into the wood. Times and needs have changed so now the strips are largely decorative. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Latest update - I posted in an overhat thread but thought I should post here the milestone of achieving  taking my truck the the destination I targeted a couple years ago.

 

I headed out to the  NSRA show Saturday and Ol blue boiled over half way there..... I'm not finished but I got it running on time to get it to this show at the local fairgrounds where there were a ton of really cool old cars and trucks.  So, half way meant decision - home to work on it or short stints with a wait....I drove a little, boiled a bit and waited a couple times but limped it into the show. It was on my bucket list and is a milestone in the life of ol Blue. My son Jake and I started the project when he was around 10....he's 19 now and we still had a ball limping to and from the show... 

 

So we made it to the show, met some nice folks, and from our multiple tours around the fairgrounds...appeared that ol Blue was the only Pilot house - representing our rigs ? ...

 

Proud moment to have so many people looking at my truck and commenting on how cool it was that it was all original +ground and flathead mostly still getting it done.  Once I get the overheat figured out I'll certainly get back on the road.

JakeJat show.PNG

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 9/17/2018 at 3:55 PM, jmooner3 said:

Latest update - I posted in an overhat thread but thought I should post here the milestone of achieving  taking my truck the the destination I targeted a couple years ago.

 

I headed out to the  NSRA show Saturday and Ol blue boiled over half way there..... I'm not finished but I got it running on time to get it to this show at the local fairgrounds where there were a ton of really cool old cars and trucks.  So, half way meant decision - home to work on it or short stints with a wait....I drove a little, boiled a bit and waited a couple times but limped it into the show. It was on my bucket list and is a milestone in the life of ol Blue. My son Jake and I started the project when he was around 10....he's 19 now and we still had a ball limping to and from the show... 

 

So we made it to the show, met some nice folks, and from our multiple tours around the fairgrounds...appeared that ol Blue was the only Pilot house - representing our rigs ? ...

 

Proud moment to have so many people looking at my truck and commenting on how cool it was that it was all original +ground and flathead mostly still getting it done.  Once I get the overheat figured out I'll certainly get back on the road.

 

Good luck with the overheating issue.  Hopefully by now you have it straightened out.

I was at the show on Saturday and can't remember if I saw your truck or not.  I did notice there were only 1 or 2 dodge trucks there at all.

I was disappointed I couldn't drive mine to show, my brakes and lack of inspection kept me from bringing it.

I was hoping to see some and discuss my project.

I am in Monkton and would love to catch up with you about your projects.

Here is a picture of where I am starting from.

IMG_2003 (Medium).JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice looking truck, welcome to the forum! I sent you a PM with my number if you find yourself over in Essex.

 

Forum friend - I have not yet figured out my overheat, have researched a bunch on the forum and several members have mentioned timing and dwell as possible culprits. That's where I think I have to go next.  I have ruled out water pump(new) - still hot, ruled out Tstat (ran without out and put a new one in) still hot, new radiator still hot, and I pulled the head, water dist tube, and all freeze plugs again as well as pressure washed every orifice I could gt into (motor still in truck) so didn't get back freeze plug. I also pressure washed in the head passage ways and then took the head to the machine shop for a clean and decking...it was warped and had a ding between cyl 5 and 6. they took it down .015 .. so I've got to get it all put back together again, get it running and set up timing.  where to set the timing?  For those that have found timing to be cause of overheating any tips welcome. 

 

The engine ran like a sewing machine but the plugs, head and cylinder tops were covered with carbon.  For you engine whisperers, I imagine that's telling me something - opinions welcome.

Thanks,

Jayson

Head -crusty.JPG

IMG_3789.JPG

Edited by jmooner3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The head gasket doesn't appear to have been fully sealing...exhaust gases could have been leaking into the coolant passages enough to create a runaway condition in engine temps...dry carbon is usually exhaust residue...your coolant might be slightly brown and smell like tailpipe emissions...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is that valve damage?.... the #1 cylinder valves look bad?

Valves.PNG

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  The two things I can think of, are the manifold heat control not functioning properly, and the rear, lower draft tube not breathing. Some had a filter that required service at intervals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm looking at what appears to be pitting in #1 on the head.  Some of those pits may be leading into the cooling passages   When running, were you getting bubbles in the radiator?  How long, starting from dead cold did it take to get hot?  I'm guessing you're getting combustion gases in the cooling system.  #1 piston also looks a bit funky, maybe some pitting in the top of it as well that even more inclines me toward combustion gasses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick responses!  Couple votes for exhaust migrating in the head...

 

The gasket was discolored between each cyl, so exhaust could have been migrating as you suggest.  The machine shop said the head was warped pretty bad, so the leaks probably got worse as it overheated and made the problem worse. The coolant was brand new a month ago it's still pretty green and does not stink.

 

The engine ran ok when I first got the truck back on the road and then over time progressively got worse overheating after 1/2 hour then after 10 min then after 5... so it's plausible that the exhaust leaks in the head gasket were the major downfall.

 

A couple mentions of pitting on cyl 1 and valves, what shows in that pic is a lot of carbon, it was loaded with it -pistons, valves and the head was full. Plugs were filthy as well. I plan to clean up the top of engine and reinstall head, I will pop in a current pic of the top of engine when clean for you to weigh in on, if you still think pitting.  There are many schools of thought on installing gasket. The felpro head gasket that I got says to install dry as it's intended to seal itself.  I have copper spray and was considering hitting the block side of the gasket as I did not machine the block just the head. so gasket side against the newly milled head I was going to leave dry....

 

I'm curious what the manifold heat control is? 

as for the draft tube, I had it off a while back, painted it and reinstalled it was clean then, I'll check it though, the mice around here seem to find all the most inconvenient places to winter.  And is did see flow in the top of radiator when running ode to the water pump but no latent bubbles noted.

 

Once I have it all back together I'll check timing and dwell where should those be set?

 

Thank you all!

J

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

   The manifold heat control  is on the exhaust manifold below the carb. On a cold engine a flap in the manifold is vertical. As the engine warms it heats a thermostatic spring and the flap goes to a horizontal position, eliminating any exhaust  restriction. Does yours have free movement? Be careful with the carbon removal.

Edited by 9 foot box
I wanted to add a caution to my post.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great info!  Thanks!  

This engine is clean as a whistle internaly I flushed it all and got a fresh water dist tube in behind waterpump.  What are you guys using to reinstall freeze plugs?  I had used permetex red previously and it held up fine, a mechanic friend told me to use Indian head, which I did this time and I now have two leaking post reassemble...least of my worries now, they are just seeping a bit so I'll continue to chase the overheat and fix those when I drain block next.

 

Manifold: JB thanks for the info - I need to look into the manifold heat control when I get back to the truck, this engine has no external signs of having that control. There is a stud there where It's supposed to be (2 actually)? see pic.  Does that mean that it's there and I'm missing some parts? I see the slotted post where spring is supposed to be, but there are no other parts in any the bins/buckets that I got with this one, anyone have extra parts to sell?  Is there a safe way to orientate this valve and run the engine?

 

Head Gasket - 

So I had the head machined flat but the block stayed put. I mated up a new felpro gasket (Dry as recommended by manufacturer) put my newly flatened head on and torqued, reassembled engine, started and it overheated pretty quickly. I re-torqued with hot engine and restarted heard the Tstat open and it's rock steady at 160. It was pretty cold out that day, and I ran it with no rad cap on. I noticed steam or what could be exhaust (if head gasket was compromised) coming out of rad top. IF the runaway condition was happening again -exh between cylinders could there be exhaust actually showing out rad top? 

 

Engine/Valves:

Valve seats look OK and engine compression - all six were between 90-110psi. I cleaned up the top of block (pic). Top of valves were a little discolored but not terribly pitted.  Piston tops cleaned up ok too.  Figured I'd run it torque head after a couple heat cycles and then check compression again.

 

 

BLock.JPG

manifold.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-engine.aspx

 

They sell some of the parts but it appears not the weight that is part of the setup but they also sell some used and nos parts just give them a call.

 

Good luck with the overheating and hope you do Not have a cracked block. Also all auto parts sellers down the street/road sell a test kit to test the radiator water for compression and exhaust gases in the water. May needed to best the next thing to check!

 

DJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JB that info is great, nice to see greybeard's words continuing to educate!  Net I got was this feature was innovative to resolve an icing issue and is generally not needed.  If I can turn clockwise and leave it I will. I believe my overheat issue is a result of headgasket failure. as yall suggested exhaust jumping between cylinders and leading to a runaway issue.  I've replaced head gasket, torqued and retorqued and it appears to be controlling heat. Like I said I am running the engine with rad cap off and I do see steam (or exhaust) exiting the fill neck of the rad, no bubbles noted. I need to get one of the exhaust test kits to put my mind at ease and theory to rest. I just posted a radiator solution on the forum. I found SUPERIOR RADIATORS from Mt. Clemens Michigan. www.superiorradiator.com, 586-463-8722. Charlie was great to deal with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update 

The Runaway heat issue appears to be behind us. JB's theory of head gasket failure leading to gasses jumping cylinders leading to runaway - seems accurate judging by the poor condition of the head gasket.  So its got a new head gasket and head torqued and re torqued a few times after heat cycle.  My son helped me to put the hood back on yesterday and I took OlBlue out for a cruise, Tstat opened right on queue, engine ran cool and all is good. Truck has beautiful new radiator keeping it cool. I'm pulling in a radiator thread to keep my chronology together. I did grab the manifold heat control with vice grips and turn it about a half turn clockwize as well. If not going to repair back to stock, I think I understand this to be the position we want to run them in(Full clockwise) -right?

 

Next is the bed wood and Gotta drop the fuel tank and seal that up, it's leaking at the aft section by the seam, I was thinking I'd use one of those products that you prep the tank and pour in to create a membrane inside...anyone have a favorite tank restoration product? IT's that or run a half tank=full ? 

 

Thanks,

Jayson

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use