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Hi Folks.

 

Fell in love with this Truck at the Goodguys Autumn Get together in Plesanton CA and shipped it back to Norway. It arrived a week ago.  Pretty unmolested end rustfree. Only rust is battery tray . Have made a new one.  A plessure to work on, every bolt breaks loose without heat or rustpenetrator, all the lube fittings work. Made a new floor in the bed. Have new Mastersylinder and have made all new brakelines. Waiting for the rest of the brake parts and im ready for a proper test drive. Engine turns out to be from a 50 Plymouth but purres like a kitten. With rebuild carb and Petronix it starts and runs quite Nice. Altso waiting for kinkbolt kit and tierods.  Im keeping the original Paint. (or whats left of it). Have painted it with Ovatrol, a rustpreventing Clear coat. 

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Thank you. I was planning on removing one leafspring at each wheel to make it a little bit lower and softer. Removing the 3. form the top will probbably drop it 1 inch or 2? Guess many of you have done that? Dont want it to low. But im not gonna carry any heavy loads so dont need the stiff ride. Might put on the Shelby Slot mags or some other og the old style mags. Dont want anything modern looking. Concidering widening the original rims so i can still use the original hubcaps but have a little beefier tyres. If i put on mags i need longer wheelbolts. Is that easy to find? Maybe easyer to swap them out With lugstuds? The wiring is ofcorse old and the isolation isnt to good... Will buy or build a New one next Winter, for now im just planning on adding a 40 or 50 amper maxifuse on the wire between the starter and ammeter. Reduses the fire hazard a little bit . I will hook up the turnindicators as well.

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Never heard of Ovatrol. A quick read of their website sounds like you can either mix it with paint or apply it alone.

 

my truck has a rough, rusted look which I'd like to keep. Can you add any information on this?

 

thanks much.

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Ovatrol has  been sold here in Europe for generations. CAn use it one Wood, steal etc.They probably have something simular in the US. Yes you kan mix it With Paint. Its quite thin and penetrates well into the rusted steel.You can spray, brush or roll it on. In this Pictures its not dry yet and is very shiny. You can see the before and after. For the frame and undercariage i will use Fluidfilm (Lanolin). Its probably overkill becouse its not gonne see that much rain anyway.And no salt or winterdriving on this old lady. But i dont have to feel bad it it sees rain or water. The floorboards and metal in the bed was gone so i installed som Boards intended for Porches. Not correct, but workes just fine and will last for "ever".

 BTW, have anyone seen a simular Pushbar? Is it home made or factory? Dealer installed maybe?

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Im hoping having it title and registered will go smoothly. Being a California car the VIN number on the title is the engine numner and not the Serial number. The Serial number in the a pillar matches the Number i found on the very front of the left framerail. But since the original engine have been replaced the number in the title isnt anywere on the car... Could make problems... Hopfully the engine number is stamped on the left, rear of the frame. If not, i might have to get a bulid sheet form the Heritage center. Guess that paper will have both engine, and Serial/frame number . THe truck is #1033 build in California so its a early one-

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How many quarts did it take to coat your truck? I'm going to order some tonight. I think this will be great for my B1B.

 

Any thoughts on preparation? I'm trying to avoid the shiny, fake looking surface. I'd prefer it to look just as it does now, just not rust anymore, but I suspect no mater what I do it'll be somewhere in the middle. 

 

I like this idea much better than clear coating, because:

 

1. I'm allergic to these modern paints, they make me sick as a dog.

 

2. They have a fake, shiny look.

 

3. At least in some I've seen, they continue to rust underneath, raising bubbles of clear coat.

 

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Edited by austinsailor

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Dont think it took more than 1 quart. Where there is paint underneath it becomes quite shiny, but in the Places With only steel it gets pretty flat apperance. Atleast With only one layer. I Only steamcelaned the Whole truck a couple of times and lett it dry properly. took 48 houres before it was completly dry, but prettycold here...

 

Edited by Ketil

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Think i will put on the Gangster cap. And remove the pushbar.But cant quite make up my mind...Got the wipers working, and all the breakparts, kingpinkit etc arrived to day. Hopfully for a proper testdrive this weekend. 

 I thaught i bougt Complete Wheel sylinders but only got the rebuild kit. Managed to get out the pistons by installing a grease fitting where the bleeder screw is. Bore looks good, only needed a little honing to be rustfree

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Nice looking truck. I am curious about the black license plate and how that will work with the DMV. I have done YOM plates before on a 59 Chevy. But the black and yellows normally cant be used unless they are currently registered on the truck.

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11 minutes ago, 59bisquik said:

Nice looking truck. I am curious about the black license plate and how that will work with the DMV. I have done YOM plates before on a 59 Chevy. But the black and yellows normally cant be used unless they are currently registered on the truck.

 

I doubt it would be valid where he lives anyway, since he lives in Norway. ;)

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Hehe, thats true. But fortunatly i can use the same number on the Norwegan plate. You can chose as long as it is not taken.

Got the New brakes on the car. And it stops...at least if Your a little patient... Will take a couple of small trips and then do the adjusting presedure over again.

 Looked some more trying to find the Engine number that is supposed to be stamped on the left framerail near the rear kickup. Did find a 6 figure number With out a letter first, so dont think its it.  Will look further tomorrow.

Edited by Ketil

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1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

 

1 hour ago, 59bisquik said:

Nice looking truck. I am curious about the black license plate and how that will work with the DMV. I have done YOM plates before on a 59 Chevy. But the black and yellows normally cant be used unless they are currently registered on the truck.

 

I doubt it would be valid where he lives anyway, since he lives in Norway. ;)

 

Doh! I missed that part. The two California plates threw me off.

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Great truck, I wish my c-series truck had a little less rust.

If you get back underneath your truck, could you snap a picture of where your brake pedal return spring attaches? I keep scratching my head as I try different attaching points

 

thank you

scott

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First proper test drive today! Wooop wooop! Havnt done the front end yet but steering is still quite good.Goes stright. Engine pulls fine, breakes are getting better and better. Drivetrain was pretty silent. No vibrations from propeller shaft etc.Some more work on the wiring and lights and it should be ready for inspection. Most anoying is probably the very harsh suspension. Anyone tryed out how much it will drop end soften bye removing some of the leafsprings? Grease or some other lubricant between the springs will probably help as well for a little while...

 

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Edited by Ketil

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Nice truck and welcome to the group. Try spraying the leaf springs with some type of lube. I use PB Blaster Corrosion Stop and it made a huge difference in ride quality. Those old springs are probably frozen up with rust.........

Jeff

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Absolutely LOVE your truck.  I hope to have a similar one someday.  :)  Congrats on bringing it home.

 

The finish you put on looks similar to the Penetrol I used on my car.  I applied it with a foam brush and used maybe half a quart for the whole car.  Its held up nicely, too, through rain and hot sun, and even a high pressure wash.

 

1st pic:  Before applying Penetrol :mellow:

 

2nd pic:  After Penetrol application :D

 

at Lewiston Kwik Trip.jpg

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I removed the second from the bottom leaf on all four springs which lowered it 2" front and back. Mine as in my shop when it burned to the ground so I now have a different exterior. I have discs on front, 3:73 rear axle and 12 volt otherwise stock. Your treatment of the original paint looks fantastic, I rattle canned mine, clear, and will redo the with a good gun.  Welcome

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The inspection went fine and i now have fresh, norwegan plates for it... The old CA plates look much nicer though...  

 Removed 2 leaves on each side in the front and 3 on each side on the rear. It dropped less than 2" but rides much nicer. Not quite a Cadillac but you dont bounce around inside the cabin when you hit a bump anymore... 

 Replaced the king pins. They came out without any problems, like everything else on this truck. All bolts when i removed leafsprings altso broke loose with out any problems. Tie rods are fine, some play in the steeringbox but not too bad. Has 1/4 " toe no, drives great.

 A teaspoon of cinnamon cured som minor leaks in the radiator. Have used it quite alot.

 Brakes are getting better and better. 90% of the linings apply the drums now. A few more miles and another adjustment they should be 100%.

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On 4/8/2018 at 3:15 AM, Ketil said:

The inspection went fine and i now have fresh, norwegan plates for it... The old CA plates look much nicer though...

 

Can you leave the California plates on with the Norwegian plates? The Norwegian plates are so unobtrusive that I think it would look fine. 

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Hi Ketil,

 

Nice truck. I have the same pushbar and rear bumper on my 1948 B1B so I'm thinking they are original options. I've seen a few pics online as well.

 

--Mark

 

 

 

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