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Front axle castle nut


bergy

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6 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

I wonder if the spacer ring in my PLYDO kit is smaller as I did not have this issue.

 

What rotor does your kit use?  Cant remember which rotor is used on Rusty Hopes kit.  The space between the inner and outer bearings has to be closer in order for the nut to get on the shaft further.  The bearings will have to be 1/2 inch or so closer.

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Of what I have seen in this thread, drilling a new hole sounds like a pretty sound solution. Another option that I haven't see mentioned is to remove the outer race from the hub and take the disc and hub to a machine shop to have the outer bearing seat cut about a quarter inch (or whatever it would take to get the setback needed) deeper. That extra depth should give the necessary clearances to use the nut as designed. You will no longer have a stock hub but if the brakes are maintained properly, you should never have to replace them in your life time. If you do, just take the new set to a machine shop for the same treatment.

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  • 1 month later...
On 2/1/2018 at 9:27 PM, Dodgeb4ya said:

If an inspection caught a loose wheel and pulled the grease cap......:eek:

A good quality nut with a couple sets of holes accurately drilled through it will work for cotter pin installation.

Hacky work bugs the heck out of me.

Just saw this response.  FYI, not hacky work, that setup was original equipment on a lot of vehicles.  Solid nut with no holes, the cap piece allows you to precisely set the bearing clearance or load and then install the lock cap and cotter key without disturbing the setting.

 

Large improvement IMHO over a plain castle nut.

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2 hours ago, kencombs said:

Just saw this response.  FYI, not hacky work, that setup was original equipment on a lot of vehicles.  Solid nut with no holes, the cap piece allows you to precisely set the bearing clearance or load and then install the lock cap and cotter key without disturbing the setting.

 

Large improvement IMHO over a plain castle nut.

That nut installed backwards  so the cotter pin could be inserted would never pas a DOT inspection............ period.

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If the dot inspection is like our safety, there is no need to check that....you don't even pull the Cali person unless you can measure the pads.  End of the day, unless your going to drill a new hole in the actual spindle, drilling out a new nut is no safer, and wouldn't allow for any kind of fine tuning for bearing set.  If you don't run this kit, it doesn't matter to you...seems to be a lot of us that do, and I would imagine a mass majority are running the nut backwards...I haven't had issues or heard of any, might not be exactly right, but in reality the nut still can't turn, so it's not really any less safe

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3 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

That nut installed backwards  so the cotter pin could be inserted would never pas a DOT inspection............ period.

That may or not be true, I don't know as we have no inspections here.  But, the post I made and you reacted to was not a pic of a nut backwards, it is two pieces, an undrilled OEM nut with a slotted cap/lock nut that accepts the cotter key.

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11 hours ago, kencombs said:

That may or not be true, I don't know as we have no inspections here.  But, the post I made and you reacted to was not a pic of a nut backwards, it is two pieces, an undrilled OEM nut with a slotted cap/lock nut that accepts the cotter key.

Whoopsie!  My reply to yours changes !

I went back on the posts and thought i was posting correctly on the castellated nut to your reply. The style nut and adjuster is good and a very common one used for years,:)

I have R&R'd thousands of them over the years.

I goofed up! Sorry..

There is another type of two piece adjuster nut I have on my 1 ton that will work. I will have to get a picture of it. Don't know if their still available though.

 

Spindle Nut kit.PNG

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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