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Roxanne - She don't have to put on the red light.

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Roxanne added to the 1948-1953 dodge Truck Registry:
http://www.townwagon.com/4853registry/display.php?serial=82204513

 

They are also asking some tough questions that I don't have answers to:

Build Card Date (I'll have to order one) ?

Body Tag Number - where is that?

Gross HP (not on the data plate) ?

Wheelbase?

Wheel Rim Date - I'm not finding any dates on my rims?

Final Drive Ratio - Isn't this always 1:1?

 

Who here doesn't have their truck in the database? You can add it here:

http://www.townwagon.com/

 

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On the 1-tons, there is a 2-digit date code stamped near the bolt circle...my '49 has one rim that is stamped '48...the smaller rims may have a code on them, but all the rims I have seen have been rusty + repainted so I have not seen one yet...Build Cards have oodles of info, and that is used to verify if the engine + body tag + frame number match...I have not found the gross HP info to verify it, so the net HP on the ID tag should be enough info for reference... there is a number on the rear axle carrier to verify your axle ratio that is stamped into the ring gear, most are 4.3 but the factory parts manual goes into detail where to locate this number :cool:

Edited by JBNeal

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Sometimes the simplest ideas take days to effect. I just wanted to change the diff oil but I'm 5/16 male drain plug socket short. Found one on Amazon for $15! Now waiting four days. At least I can still drive her.

 

20180616_131923-808x539.jpg

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Genuine authentic Colorful Colorado license plates :: Found 'em on EPAY for a modest amount of cash. Roxanne deserves proper badging, starting with period correct license plates. When we first met she was showing off a 1970’s Colorado Collector Series license plates, which is nice and they do have just the right amount of wear for a truck of this age. When I drove her down to get her registered in my name, they wouldn’t let me use the plates she came with. I ended up buying the Horseless Carriage plates – I think there about $12.00 for a year or so. I’ve been re-thinking that decision because those plates limit your mileage to about two thousand miles per year, and Roxanne isn’t exactly a horseless carriage. Horseless yes, but carriage? No.

 

Colorful-Colorado-TT-1950-License-Plates

 

Epay is the place to shop for vintage plates for your collectible automobiles. Prices range from $20.00 to well over $69.95. While there are plenty of Colorado plates, finding one with 19   50 stamped into the metal is nigh impossible – or so I thought. I ended up finding three different sets. I lost out in a bidding war for the first set, second offer was for one plate only and the third offer was for a set of TT (Truck Tractor) plates for a modest $39.95 plus shipping and tax. It was a Buy Now scenario and the plates arrived today.


The seller on EBAY was Tom & Margaret Boyd who goes by ‘licpl8s’. Tom it turns out is a license plate collector who happens to live in Boulder. Yeah, I lost a little respect for him just because he was from Boulder 😜 He is a bonafide member of APCL. Tom joined the Automobile License Plate Collectors Association in 1982 and has been active at both the international and local level.  He served as Vice President of ALPCA and was Editor of ALPCA’s magazine.  Locally, Tom was Secretary/Treasurer of Rocky Mountain Regional branch of ALPCA for nineteen years.  Tom has co-authored three books on license plates.

 

ALPCA-Logo.jpg

 

Here is Tom's EPAY Store >

Here is Tom's website >

 

License-Plate-Colorado-17-TT-160-1950_Pa

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I was looking at @ggdad1951's FEF and see Mark is using what appears to be the original "yellow". I recall him discussing it here and there. I think he referred to it as Armour Yellow.

 

When I learned that Les Schwab Tires would media blast and powder coat wheels for about 36 bucks each I pulled 'em off Roxanne and trucked over to the local franchise. The yellows they showed me were pretty lemon or orange, and none that looked like what Mark has on FEF.

 

I have remnants od the original yellow color; the pin stripes on my grill bars. When I measure with my colorometer I get RGB 217 201 140. Yes, faded and sun tinted. What is the original color really, or more important, what color is it in today's paints?

 

Now I'm at a crossroads. My new plan is to media blast them and paint them myself, but not sure how to proceed. I've heard rustoleum has a color that is very close, or I can get a can mixed up and spray it myself, or ??? 

 

I'm not planning a show quality restore, more of a general cleanup and preservation and need some counseling and advise to that end.

 

Ideas?

 

 

20180714_100340-1328x747.jpg

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I have had more than one auto body paint supply store point me in the direction of Auto Color Library to do research and find possible solutions to my needs... I have located the paint chips needed, but the locals do not have the recipes to mix accurately, and their suppliers are not willing to go to their warehouses to dig out the hard copies that contain this information... good luck :cool:

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Look in the phone book for a local powder coater. They will have a couple dozen shades of yellow (just like a paint shop). The powder coat holds up a long time and will look much better than rattle can. 

Edited by 59bisquik

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I sanded and buffed one of my original wheels that still had an area of good paint on it. Then I took it to Finish Masters and had them match it for me. I’ll try to attach a picture of my finished wheel and a picture of the formula. I thought they did an excellent job of matching the original color. 

9B3B9C5A-E578-44A1-813B-AF49C9DE30BB.jpeg

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10 hours ago, David A. said:

I sanded and buffed one of my original wheels that still had an area of good paint on it. Then I took it to Finish Masters and had them match it for me. I’ll try to attach a picture of my finished wheel and a picture of the formula. I thought they did an excellent job of matching the original color. 

9B3B9C5A-E578-44A1-813B-AF49C9DE30BB.jpeg

 

That looks very similar to the yellow I ended up with, based on a number that was posted here many years ago. Can’t seem to find it now. The yellow that Mark used on FEF is different than what I used. His has a more orange, or brown hue to it. MIne is a brighter yellow. They both look good. Based on what paint was left on mine, I believe what I have is very close to the original color, and I believe Mark has claimed the same with his. Maybe the yellow color changed over the years? 

Edited by Merle Coggins

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From what I know of paint in general and quality control of the post-war era, both of ya could be right...color matching is almost an art form, factory colors could have varied from batch to batch over the years...as long as ya are in the ballpark and are happy with the results, then ya probably nailed it :cool:

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With your experience, and the experience of @ggdad1951 I don't think we'll ever know re original color. I thought one of my front wheels still had a good sample of orig color under the hubcap but on closer inspection I can see it was repainted, and where it has chipped off it is showing a very faded buff color - almost light gray. I'd be happy with @Merle Coggins, Mark's or @David A.'s. 

20180715_073617-1328x747.jpg

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