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Engine Replacement


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Having found a hairline crack in my engine block in the 49 Wayfarer Convertible I located a complete 49 D30 stamped engine for a replacement. After a total rebuild things are starting to happen.

 

 

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Don't toss the old block. It can be repaired by sandblasting the area where the crack is to find out where it starts and ends,and then  drilling a hole at each end and installing pins and brazing or welding them in place to keep the crack from spreading.

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413 Max Wedge Cracked Block Job JC Auto (3) (Large).JPG

413 Max Wedge Cracked Block Clean Up (21) (Large).JPG

JC 413 Max Wedge Pinning Block (19).JPG

Max Wedge Pin Job Finished (1).JPG

JC 413 Max Wedge Pinning Block (40).JPG

Max Wedge Pin Job Finished (2).JPG

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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Saving say a rare  or almost any engine block can be done  and making the repair invisible too. It is a technical job to do it right though.

I  stitched (www.locknstitch.com) this recently rebuilt engine block on both sides. ^^^^ These are special cupped/stepped thread pins that pull the crack and pins into each other.   It's not cheap to do.

Another type of cheaper threaded tapered pins can tend to pressure the crack.

 

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Messy post!
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1 hour ago, palmersparts said:

Knuckleharley is right.  Ive seen it done on a road grader while the engine was still installed. The machine was only offline for 1.5 days..

The BEST way to do it is to strip the block and then heat it in an oven before pinning and welding. That removes all the stress,including the stress that caused the crack to begin with if there is any left.

 

It's  the best way to weld cast iron,which is full of air pockets and gets even more brittle than normal if you weld it up while it's cold or room temperature. Heat it,weld it,and let it slowly cool and you will have no problems.

 

I've even welded cast iron tangs back on shotguns using a rosebud tip to pre-heat it,and then using a acetylene rich mixture and keeping the line pressures down below 4 psi and using a big tip. Once done and then ground and polished,you couldn't tell it had ever been broken.

Edited by knuckleharley
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On 1/20/2018 at 6:33 AM, knuckleharley said:

Don't toss the old block. It can be repaired by sandblasting the area where the crack is to find out where it starts and ends,and then  drilling a hole at each end and installing pins and brazing or welding them in place to keep the crack from spreading.

Lock-N-Stitch works great too...  Saved many blocks that way myself.  Way easier than welding, looks better too.  Nonetheless, saving the block is possible and not impossible nowadays.

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On 1/20/2018 at 8:46 AM, Dodgeb4ya said:

413 Max Wedge Cracked Block Job JC Auto (3) (Large).JPG

413 Max Wedge Cracked Block Clean Up (21) (Large).JPG

JC 413 Max Wedge Pinning Block (19).JPG

Max Wedge Pin Job Finished (1).JPG

JC 413 Max Wedge Pinning Block (40).JPG

Had a similar crack on a 440 block I fixed.  I also used Lock-N-Stitch as you showed in your picture.  After grinding down and needling the area, you can't see the repair after I repainted the engine block.  Good stuff!

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On 1/20/2018 at 8:53 AM, Dodgeb4ya said:

Saving say a rare  or almost any engine block can be done  and making the repair invisible too. It is a technical job to do it right though.

I  stitched (www.locknstitch.com) this recently rebuilt engine block on both sides. ^^^^ These are special cupped/stepped thread pins that pull the crack and pins into each other.   It's not cheap to do.

Another type of cheaper threaded tapered pins can tend to pressure the crack.

 

You beat me to it...  Great product!

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  • 2 years later...

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