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TylerB46

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17 hours ago, BigDaddyO said:

 

Problem with this method is getting the required number without getting run over by oncoming traffic.

I couldn't help but this of Frogger when I read this :P

                                   John 

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On 1/5/2018 at 7:27 PM, greg g said:

Search pioneer.  I have posted these bolts and their part number several times.

 

post-3-13585345818315.jpg

 

post-3-13585345817958.jpg 

My friend has a set of used sbc head bolts that he says are in really good shape that he’ll just give to me. Think they’d be safe to use or is it kinda a new or nothing sort of thing?

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They can be used over, but these are listed as Chev or GMC and when I bought them through the machine shop that milled my head, they were 90¢ each even if their cost has doubled in the interim they are still cheap piece of mind.  Mind the proper sequence and torquing procedure and you won't have to worry if every thing is OK.

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41 minutes ago, greg g said:

They can be used over, but these are listed as Chev or GMC and when I bought them through the machine shop that milled my head, they were 90¢ each even if their cost has doubled in the interim they are still cheap piece of mind.  Mind the proper sequence and torquing procedure and you won't have to worry if every thing is OK.

Okay thanks 

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IMG_5203.jpg.2ff8bb28c1bd39263e757596c8ffc404.jpgIMG_5203.jpg.2ff8bb28c1bd39263e757596c8ffc404.jpgUse lots of thread sealant. Nows the perfect time to swap to a stud  i.m.o.. They are fine threaded at the nut end so you can finesse the torque and it should stay correct longer and less chance of breaking.Guaranteed gr. 8 or better too. When done, pop a chrome cast nut -cover over the nut and serve!  I used ARP from  AllensFasteners.com .The part # on my receipt would be for a stud too long for your iron head application but good for an aluminum.             

 

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