TewWorkw Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 I am restoring a B2C116 which sat in a field in Nebraska for about forty-two years. The handbrake lining was completely deteriorated and fell out so I was unable to examine the installation. I now have new lining and brass rivets and riveting tool. My question relates to countersinking the rivet heads. Is countersinking required, or will they pull into the lining sufficiently to provide the needed clearance? Any information you can provide will be helpful. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 The parking brake lining I installed on my Plymouth was hard enough that the rivets would not pull into it. All the instructions I recall seeing have the heads countersunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Yes I'll second that. Countersink. Then when you forget to release it it's only the lining wearing on the drum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendall Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 Would one use a forester bit to recess the rivet-heads? Any taper to the seat by a typical drill would weaken the strength of the fastener unless the rivet is tapered. Seems it could distort the pad face as well. Just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendall Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 spellcheck sucks, says Mr. Forstner, third period English teacher! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 24 minutes ago, kendall said: Would one use a forester bit to recess the rivet-heads? Any taper to the seat by a typical drill would weaken the strength of the fastener unless the rivet is tapered. Seems it could distort the pad face as well. Just curious. The brake lining rivet kit I picked up to the job came with a special stepped drill bit designed to make the proper size though hole and the proper sized countersink. I'd have to go back and look at my records, but I don't recall the kit being all that expensive. I did have to mail order it though as nobody around me stocked anything like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendall Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 The 'step' must be a stop.Too deep and your'e through the pad. A drill press would be in order without. Thanks, as I often wonder what the extra vibration and noise is on start up. Just after the panic and just before the Why me, Lord?" I find my brake lever pulled. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TewWorkw Posted April 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2019 Thanks everyone. Two years later project is 75% complete and handbrake works fine. Now I need to know where the speedometer cable is routed? Specifically does it enter the cab through the firewall, or the upper floor board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted April 3, 2019 Report Share Posted April 3, 2019 Answer is kinda both. There should be a notch on the firewall near where the top toe board goes and it kind of nestles in the notch between the toe board and the firewall. this thread might help ya: http://p15-d24.com/topic/27894-speedo-cable/?tab=comments#comment-278705 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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