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Handbrake lining


TewWorkw

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I am restoring a B2C116 which sat in a field in Nebraska for about forty-two years. The handbrake lining was completely deteriorated and fell out so I was unable to examine the installation.   I now have new lining and brass rivets and riveting tool.  My question relates to countersinking the rivet heads.  Is countersinking required, or will they pull into the lining sufficiently to provide the needed clearance?  Any information you can provide will be helpful.

Thanks.

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24 minutes ago, kendall said:

Would one use a forester bit to recess the rivet-heads? Any taper to the seat by a typical drill would weaken the strength of the fastener unless the rivet is tapered. Seems it could distort the pad face as well. Just curious.

 

The brake lining rivet kit I picked up to the job came with a special stepped drill bit designed to make the proper size though hole and the proper sized countersink. I'd have to go back and look at my records, but I don't recall the kit being all that expensive. I did have to mail order it though as nobody around me stocked anything like it.

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The 'step' must be a stop.Too deep and your'e through the pad. A drill press would be in order without. Thanks, as I often wonder what the extra vibration and noise is on start up. Just after the panic and just before the Why me, Lord?" I find my brake lever pulled.

IMG_5117.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks everyone.  Two years later project is 75% complete and handbrake works fine.  Now I need to know where the speedometer cable is routed?  Specifically does it enter the cab through the firewall, or the upper floor board?

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Answer is kinda both.  There should be a notch on the firewall near where the top toe board goes and it kind of nestles in the notch between the toe board and the firewall.

 

this thread might help ya:

http://p15-d24.com/topic/27894-speedo-cable/?tab=comments#comment-278705

 

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