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Home Made Intake, Exhaust & Freshen-Up


Adam H P15 D30

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Hello group - Thought I would post some pictures of a project I've been working on with my 49 Dodge.  Looking at some old spare parts I had hanging around the garage and decided to make use of some of them.  Initially I was planning to make some headers for my 230 using an old set of SB Chevy Sanderson headers I've had for a while.  Then I decided to make a header / intake combo with a Rochester 2bbl I had lying around.  As all projects seem to go I decided multiple carbs was the way to go for better fuel distribution.  Thinking through this further, I wanted to use Tom Langdon's Weber 32's as my carbs of choice.  Hopefully I can share (remember) all the things I did correctly, pitfalls I encountered, and mistakes I made (there were a few).

First was to cut a plate to act as a flange, I chose 3/8" steel.  Note: Purchase a good holesaw for this and use a drill press.

 

IMG_1784.jpg

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Next would be to find a set of donor headers to cut up, in my case it was SBC headers.  Cut, weld, modify and start tacking them to the flange.  Best to get both tacked on and fit to the engine before final welding.  I wanted to be able to clear the oil pump and fuel pump with room to spare.  

Finished welded the headers to the flange, ground and dressed the welds.

IMG_1791.jpg

IMG_1794.jpg

IMG_1793.jpg

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15 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Next would be to find a set of donor headers to cut up, in my case it was SBC headers.  Cut, weld, modify and start tacking them to the flange.  Best to get both tacked on and fit to the engine before final welding.  I wanted to be able to clear the oil pump and fuel pump with room to spare.  

Finished welded the headers to the flange, ground and dressed the welds.

IMG_1791.jpg

IMG_1794.jpg

IMG_1793.jpg

Very interesting set up...

 

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Intake time....  Couple of dilemmas here, my 49 has a heater box hanging on the firewall and I wanted to center the 2 carbs between the 3 intake ports as best as I could.  Some careful measuring here but I did make a couple of boo boo's.  First, I underestimated how bulky these Weber carbs were going to be so I goofed a little on the spacing.  Second I mis-measured on the back carb and got too close to the heater box.  The results were choke removal on both carbs to fit.  Oh well, I live in CA so it will be fine...

What to use for intake runners?  I didn't want to use standard bends but I wanted a gradual bend from the intake log to the port, off to Home Depot I go.  I found 90 degree bends in the EMT section that will fit the bill perfectly.  Now to clear the heater box, remain symmetrical and be able to center the carbs between the ports I had to lean the outer intake runners toward the middle a littleIMG_1809.jpg.3249f148330d8f4db9f3db1783fd060c.jpgIMG_1811.jpg.4d4db48f56f49acf1fdbb90c8e30e3f1.jpg 

Adding the horizontal part of the intake

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Risers for the Weber carbs

IMG_1940.jpg.a582dc48be63e3df923287486b6822bb.jpg

IMG_1941.jpg.fabecc1cef5ac46eb67097937d9849d1.jpg

Edited by Adam H P15 D30
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Don't forget to blend the intake holes on the flange to the runners.

IMG_1942.jpg.5d6476eb92531396bd29eddefce9519f.jpg

Wasn't sure how to cap the ends of the log part of the intake but I was sure I didn't want to just put flat plates on.  Found front wheel bearing caps for a Volare fit nicely and add a little rounded touch to the project.  Also added a hot water tube to the outside of the intake to keep it warm.  Here is the 5th or so test fit after I painted it.  You can see the choke hitting the heater box :(

IMG_1976.jpg.d769a0df41623a483238c4f01a21e911.jpg

I also ordered Langdon's air cleaners and throttle linkage but do to me placing the carbs too close together they didn't fit, another mistake but after thinking it through I cut and welded the tops together and finish painted them the hammertone silver I painted the engine.  The intake is painted a darker cast iron hammertone along with the breather tube for some contrast.  The ugly heater valve is next.

IMG_1979.jpg.0f9f5da7f96c0c0cc5cda9944e420c8f.jpg

Added a new fuel line 

IMG_1980.jpg.704c3f8a604cd805472d6eab362b5701.jpg

Next is the manifold and heater hose plumbing.IMG_1983.jpg.0f663b58cc77e1b8a7aa976c097a6805.jpg

Also, my PCV modification...

IMG_1984.jpg.9d80b8bd7fd1146923752e65e21ef2bc.jpg

Removing this spring is a must or you will have a super stiff throttle.  I lifted this image from the net..

Screenshot_2017-11-08-11-03-31.jpg.ea5d1305a01fcaaa0299a1878890c759.jpg

Finally installed with the throttle linkage, pedal feels nice and smooth. The red thing in my rear heater hose connection is my cooling fan switch.

IMG_1995.jpg.712c89abe41c0b68485b8c450b35b8e8.jpg

I ordered some hoses from NAPA and had to leave it here while I travel for work the next 2 weeks.  Hopefully be running by the end of the year...

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I love it, making your own because it is just what we do!

 

I have a question hoping others can answer, I thought of doing something similar myself. I question how well a steel intake manifold would work?

And I ask because I really just do not know the answer.

For some reason, I thought for proper atomization of the gas you need cast porous surfaces. But again, I do not get paid for my thinking  :lol:

 

Are we talking the difference would only be noticeable on a dyno? But actually performance and driveability it would be just fine?

No question in my mind, am going to build my headers, but I surrendered to the idea of a stock single carb, until run across a reasonably priced dual carb manifold, or I get a whole lot better at welding cast.

Just looking for opinions of others that have knowledge about it. Any pitfalls like rust issues or ???

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5 hours ago, Los_Control said:

I love it, making your own because it is just what we do!

 

I have a question hoping others can answer, I thought of doing something similar myself. I question how well a steel intake manifold would work?

And I ask because I really just do not know the answer.

For some reason, I thought for proper atomization of the gas you need cast porous surfaces. But again, I do not get paid for my thinking  :lol:

 

Are we talking the difference would only be noticeable on a dyno? But actually performance and driveability it would be just fine?

No question in my mind, am going to build my headers, but I surrendered to the idea of a stock single carb, until run across a reasonably priced dual carb manifold, or I get a whole lot better at welding cast.

Just looking for opinions of others that have knowledge about it. Any pitfalls like rust issues or ???

racers port an polish their heads and intakes to get them as smooth as possible. smoother means less turbulence and more velocity = more air/fuel in the cylinder

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4 hours ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

I thought about that also. The steel I would have used for the runners was almost mirror like. An unintended benefit of using the EMT tubing it the inside of the tube is rough, almost like a casting. 

Adam

 

Well your work looks awesome, got me thinking and reading, It seems perfectly acceptable to do this. One guy who I trus his opinion a lot, claims they may have cast em cause was easier to mass produce.

A little more reading and found this article here with way to many technical tid bits for building your own, well worth reading for sure.

Yeah I,m in for the ride, have a old set of small block ford shorty headers that need a new purpose and a whole corner full of steel plate wanting to be used.

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/log-c.htm

I liked this paragraph here.

 

Log manifolds as manufactured “back in the day” were, generally, designed for racing, have poor idle quality, un-even mixture distribution, and require expensive and complex linkage to function properly. The world’s fastest fuel dragster (Cook-Bedwell Isky/U-Fab Special Chrysler 354) used one in 1956.
    Complete fabrication of a log manifold with somewhat better “manners” can be done using standard commercial shapes (plate, cylinders, &c.). It’s possible to do this in steel (16 gauge or heavier), but aluminum is prettier, easier to port and radius when complete, and saves some weight (the flanges are heavy). My choice would be 6061 alloy, as it’s common, weldable and relatively inexpensive to find in odd shapes.

    The same general construction as used 50 years ago will still work: two pieces of plate become the port flanges. Of course, an in-line engine (4, 6, 8) will only have one flange and one plenum with a single row of runners. More wall thickness (¼” instead of 1/8”) on all pieces adds weight and expense, but makes for easier welding, more strength, more thread depth if needed, and allows intersections and joints to be radiused.

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58 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

Well your work looks awesome, got me thinking and reading, It seems perfectly acceptable to do this. One guy who I trus his opinion a lot, claims they may have cast em cause was easier to mass produce.

A little more reading and found this article here with way to many technical tid bits for building your own, well worth reading for sure.

Yeah I,m in for the ride, have a old set of small block ford shorty headers that need a new purpose and a whole corner full of steel plate wanting to be used.

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/log-c.htm

I liked this paragraph here.

 

Log manifolds as manufactured “back in the day” were, generally, designed for racing, have poor idle quality, un-even mixture distribution, and require expensive and complex linkage to function properly. The world’s fastest fuel dragster (Cook-Bedwell Isky/U-Fab Special Chrysler 354) used one in 1956.
    Complete fabrication of a log manifold with somewhat better “manners” can be done using standard commercial shapes (plate, cylinders, &c.). It’s possible to do this in steel (16 gauge or heavier), but aluminum is prettier, easier to port and radius when complete, and saves some weight (the flanges are heavy). My choice would be 6061 alloy, as it’s common, weldable and relatively inexpensive to find in odd shapes.

    The same general construction as used 50 years ago will still work: two pieces of plate become the port flanges. Of course, an in-line engine (4, 6, 8) will only have one flange and one plenum with a single row of runners. More wall thickness (¼” instead of 1/8”) on all pieces adds weight and expense, but makes for easier welding, more strength, more thread depth if needed, and allows intersections and joints to be radiused.

I believe the "log" manifolds they are referring to are these.  And yes they can have nasty street manners.

 

DSCF1777.jpg

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2 hours ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

I believe the "log" manifolds they are referring to are these.  And yes they can have nasty street manners.

 

DSCF1777.jpg

Anything that has "WEIAND DRAG STAR" on it these days is so expensive I can't even afford to look at it. I see people on ebay wanting 600 bucks for a fuel log.

I bought a 6x2 Eelco  (most likely misspelled) for my DeSoto hemi  for less than 300 bucks,and it was new in the box.

Yeah,I know,but it sure does look cool!

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yes, is style of log they are speaking of, a photo they share of them. These I believe are made from 6160 aluminium as it is easy to grind, cut, shape etc... also lighter then steel.

But the photo is titled cragar-cadilac, does this mean that cragar made these for a cadilac engine? I dunno, but that would be my guess and the material looks like aluminium to my old eyes.

 

They claim that 1/4" steel works great, you can cut and weld and thread holes for studs etc ....  but it is heavy and generally not what you want on a race engine.

If you ask me, I would say that maybe the intake that Adam made is not a actual log, but I bet some of the same principles would apply. Just some basic guidelines for when a guy is fiddling around in the shop trying to lay it out. Maybe follow some of the suggestions for tuning it after you get it on the motor and running. And of course, another search term for google to get you further down the rabbit hole.

Cadillac-cragar.JPG.4b32dd64a95ab1b40fa77cbca7d289a9.JPG

After you get it working and satisfied, probably could have the whole unit intake/exhaust ceramic coated for longevity?

Edited by Los_Control
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  • Adam H P15 D30 changed the title to Home Made Intake, Exhaust & Freshen-Up

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