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D24 Door lock Re-Key - matched trunk lock to doors


Bryan

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More on the lost keys saga - Well, after playing with my ignition lock and taking it apart, I decided to take a door lock apart. Have viewed a few YouTube videos concerning re-keying locks.  I didn't want to pay $ 190 - 240 on Ebay buying an ignition and door lock set.   So I bought a $ 17 ignition lock and key, and will attempt to re-key the door locks to match the ignition.  Took the driver door lock off, cleaned it up, noted position of shaft. End of the shaft looks like a Superman emblem, so I noted the top of the "emblem" lines up with the long metal rectangle on the lock. The shaft is held on by a tab on the end of the lock. You have to drive it out from the bottom with a very small punch or screwdriver.  Tried to pick the lock and was unsuccessful (I picked the old ignition lock). Maybe a pin was stuck or just a bad day.  I remembered about the metal rectangle cover from a video, so i took a jewelers screwdriver and banged it in the thin seam, and carefully pried the cover up. Then I removed the springs, and CAREFUL NOT TO TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN.  If you do, the pins fall out and they roll forever on the floor.  I put my thumb over the holes, only exposing one pin at a time, and rapped on the side until the pin fell out. Then I set each it order on the table, one at a time.  The upper pins might not be so important, they look the same size, but wasn't sure. Sometimes a lower pin tries to fall out, if it does, place it in the same position on the table, across from the upper pin.  From  video I saw, if you're matching to a new key, the order doesn't matter, but I'm overly careful.  I embedded the pins in cardboard..for the old ignition lock I bumped the table, and pins went all over the place. I was more careful with this door lock.   Another day I'll have to remove the stainless steel face, to be able to pull the core out.  Supposedly from videos I've watched, when I get the new ignition key & lock, I can insert the key in the door lock, and arrange (several times) the different height pins until they are flush with the body, so the key will turn. 

1 Stem - door lock.jpg

2 Stem base.jpg

3 Tab.jpg

4 Spring in end.jpg

5 Spring cover.jpg

6 Spring cover 2.jpg

7 Pins out.jpg

8 Pin keeper.jpg

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  • Bryan changed the title to D24 Door lock Re-Key

I contacted Rfurtado1 on Ebay that sells 1199B key blanks for $8-$10 and will cut them according to code for about $  13.   I wrote to him that I didn't have the code, and if he could use pin heights from the lock to cut a key. Good news...his response.  

"Hello Bryan,

Yes, I can do that for you. I would need the measurements of the five bottom pins (the ones that go into the lock cylinder itself). List them 1 through 5, #1 being the pin closest to the opening of the lock. Measurements will be in .001ths.

Thanks,
Bob"

So that saves $35 from ordering the build card from Fiat-Chrysler...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my door lock back together after receiving the keys. Had to file 2 high places in the keys but they work now.   Had to solder the plate on the lock covering the tumbler pins. The plate is so thin, and there's practically no ledge around it to hold it in. Tried staking it on the edges, nothing. So just soldered it over.IMG_9251.JPG.11f19c189fa5f08ba0b534a72f8f2655.JPG

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2 hours ago, DrDoctor said:

   As a matter of caution, we had the two door locks, the trunk lock, and the ignition switch, re-keyed by a local locksmith. It only cost us $15 per lock/switch--$60 for all of them. It took him about 1-1½ hr total.

The only locksmith in our podunk area said he had never taken an old car door lock apart..and at $ 30/hr I wasn't about to try him..

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Tried to get my door locks rekey and the old time locksmith said he couldn’t find out the key blank # he kept saying his old book said it should be stamped on the lock casing. I gave up but now I no the blank # so I’ll have to go back . Thanks 

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Brad,

   Obviously, that locksmith just doesn’t want to deal with an old lock, and in the case, I’d say “to he!! with him”, he doesn’t need your hard-earned money. Besides, it’s not like he’s the only locksmith in the world. Best regards . . . .

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Removed my 48 Dodge trunk handle so I could rekey the lock.  Took me an hour to pick the lock so I could remove the cylinder from the handle.  Replaced the pins with those from my old ignition lock so I would have the same key for all doors and the trunk.  Found a better way to exchange the pins...used the old core from the ignition lock to push it through the back as I removed the lock cylinder. Kept all the springs & driver pins from falling out.  Still was a bear.

 

5a285aeb23841_Trunklocktab.jpg.fcd4178e7a0705be1a9a4b8cffbeb3b3.jpg

 

Use smooth part of core lined up with the rectangular tab where driver pins and springs are.

5a285af5ddea4_Trunklockpushcore.jpg.75d772ba7a2f27d6a2a2b08f914936e7.jpg

 

Push core from back as you remove trunk core. Pins will fall out but if you are changing them doesn't matter about order.

5a285afdbee67_Trunk-pushcoreinthruback.jpg.4c2c362e5b16f840ac97bfbf396eae03.jpg

 

Pins from old ignition lock in same order as doors. When they are correct pins are flush with core.

5a285b05a4b51_Ignitionlockpinsintrunkcore.jpg.4a263e2993a3a36b302f1784434be716.jpg

 

It works.

IMG_9279.JPG.33bb93ef3244a86a0b008726acf138c6.JPG

Edited by Bryan
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  • Bryan changed the title to D24 Door lock Re-Key - matched trunk lock to doors

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