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Oil pressure relief valve


johnsartain

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Before I start getting the "use search" and RTFM comments, I have already searched, and I have tried all the suggestions I could find in this site, notwithstanding that I may have missed one or two but I am going to ask this age old question. How can I remove a stuck relief valve. I have tried using a dowel and wedge, 1/4 npt pipe tap, a 1/2 inch coarse thread tap, a 3/8 nipple extractor. I tried threading a screw into the oil bleed hole in the center of the valve. Of all  the methods I have yet to find anything that works for this engine. I have 2 other blocks and the 1/4 npt tap easily extracted the valves from those blocks. If I were starting fresh, knowing what I know now, I may have used one of them instead but the block I chose was the one that was original to the truck. If I had known of this I would have worked it with the engine out, but you all know what they say about hindsight. Does anyone have any other ideas they would like to offer?

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On 11/10/2017 at 7:32 PM, P15-D24 said:

I've used one of those tools to remove broken sprinkler risers.

 

I began with the thought that if I could get the valve to turn that it would eventually work loose and come out. The nipple extraction tool was a start but wasn't able to go deep enough to get a good bite. It wasn't till i tried the taps that I realized how hard this metal is. The tap won't even scratch it. It could be that I was using a cheap tap. I figure that the valve is rust seized so I am trying PB Blaster in an attempt to dissolve some of the rust. The valve is about an inch long with a 1/2 in section that is solid on one and and a 1/4 inch section on the other. My only goal at this point is to get it out without damaging the block. I haven't given up the pipe tap method just yet but would like some recommendations as to what is the best brand to buy that is hard enough that the thread on the tap won't get messed up. I don't really care if the valve get messed up, I have another. 

I was also wondering, if it came down to it, if a welding rod shorted to to the inside of the valve would anchor itself well enough to be able to use it to extract it? I would think that cutting the rod short enough to get it into the valve, then with the ground removed place the rod into the valve with the torch handle attached, then attaching the ground. Does this even sound feasible. My hopes would be that enough head would be generated to expand the valve so that once cooled, it might break loose the rust or whatever is binding it. Is this just a totally crazy idea, what are others thought on how this would work? I am open for any ideas. 

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I really appreciate your response Dom,

What is the Snap on part number? Can it be used with the engine in the vehicle? What kind of Clearance would be required to use it in the vehicle. On my truck, the cap for the valve is directly in line with the Gemmer steering box. At this point it is whatever it takes!

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26 minutes ago, johnsartain said:

I really appreciate your response Dom,

What is the Snap on part number? Can it be used with the engine in the vehicle? What kind of Clearance would be required to use it in the vehicle. On my truck, the cap for the valve is directly in line with the Gemmer steering box. At this point it is whatever it takes!

I do not have the part number as I bought that about 30 years ago, Engine was out of the vehicle when I used it.

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33 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

I wonder if an internal pipe wrench tool would be able to grip it enough to get it loose...

IMG_0237.JPG.2f94f38e693055dbc4b6ac50e659f71a.JPG

I have some of those and tried them. I couldn't get them to bite. I ground mine down on the tip so I could get the upper part of the extractor in the relief valve. It would just get cocked in the  end of the valve until I ground it down. That has got to be the hardest metal I have ever seen.

Edited by johnsartain
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14 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

I do not have the part number as I bought that about 30 years ago, Engine was out of the vehicle when I used it.

Don, 

I found a look-a-like but it says its made by RIGID, still a good tool company though. http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/products.htm?item=35585&ref=gbase&gclid=CjwKCAiAoqXQBRA8EiwAIIOWsuVtuY2Hr3TQFpZwRKCR-qhVJi7yq5qIw0FmLwyQdLmlozwzIYXlzhoCn24QAvD_BwE

35585.jpg

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3 hours ago, johnsartain said:

That set differs as it has spiral not fluted removal tools.

The set I have is Blue Point number 1020

004.jpg

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great, it is the same price as the Rigid one (there-about). I would rather have the Blue point set.  Did you have to drill or just hammer the fluted extractor into the relief valve?

Thanks again, Don

Edited by johnsartain
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I have had luck braking stuff like this loose using repeated cycles of penetrating oil and heat. Try soaking with your favorite penetrating oil then applying heat to the surrounding area. Doesn't have to be a torch....even a heat gun would get the surrounding metal hot enough. Allow it to cool and soak again. Repeat the process a few times then see if it will move. Usually 3 or 4 cycles of this is enough.

Hth, Jeff

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I did one this way thirty years ago  and it is still running so as haywire as it sounds, it worked :,

I left the stuck valve where it was with its spring back in place.  I  then substituted the oil pump cover which has a relief valve  built in. This was used on 53 and 54 cars with Hydrive

or the torque converter filled by engine oil.  Oil pressure is then regulated at the pump.  

The drawback is that a bypass filter will not work as intended.   

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