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Carb number help


38plymouth

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My car ran great a week ago although I hadn't driven it in about 10 months, I took it for a 5-mile drive and everything was fine. I started it up Saturday morning to go to a car show and it would idle but it would not accelerate it would stumble like crazy and die. I found some bad spark plug wires and replace them but it still stumbled and died. I noticed the gas smelled kind of bad even though I had treated it and also put in 5 gallons of fresh fuel so I pulled the top off of the carburetor and everything is gunked up seals are ruined and there's black chunks in the carburetor bore. Unfortunately it has ethanol fuel in it, so looks like I'll be draining the fuel tank replacing the lines and rebuilding the carburetor. I could use some help with the carburetor number, the car is at 38 Plymouth with a 201 the only numbers I can find on the carburetor are B8LA15 and  0-348. I have another car show to go to Saturday so I need to get moving on this quick. I'm not sure which number I need to use to order and I'm curious to know what year car the carburetors off of, the last time I rebuilt the carburetor most of the gaskets were not correct and I ordered them for a 1938 Plymouth. 

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I made a few calls and neither of those numbers are right. I finally found the right number using a flashlight, camera and zoom. Wow that writing is hard to see. The right number is C6J1 and it's the correct carb for a 1938. I'm really hoping Napa can get a kit for me quickly. 

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according to my catalogs the carter repair kit for your carb  c6j1 or c6k1 is carter repair kit 1012B.  Keep looking for this kit on ebay you might find one with allof the internal parts.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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2 hours ago, 38plymouth said:

I just ordered one from  mikes carburetor,  should be here in 2 days. 

Have one to sell? Sell now

37 Plymouth Carburetor Repair Kit this is the title to search under on ebay. Just found this one.

There isa complete rebuilt kit for the 38 Plymouth C6J1 and K1 on Ebay for $25. This should have all of the small internal parts mot of the newer kits do not contain all of the small parts. i would buy the one on ebay just to have a spare kit the factory rebuild kits are getting harder to find. Do it now for future use, You can alwasy resell it and get you money back.33Rich Hartung

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I have found that the new kits that can be obtained are mostly generic - 1 size fit all. Speaking to AB on the phone about a new kit I asked him to make sure they sent the correct kit for my carb number, his response was "These B&B carbs are all the same". While its true that these B&B carbs are mostly the same there are a few differences. Such as the main metering jet, I have seen a lot of different sizes in the specs book. Another thing that is recommended to replace is the main vent tube, while this can be difficult to remove you will never get one in a new kit.

I agree with Rich, get an original kit designed for your carb number with all the parts. Gaskets may be brittle but those you can obtain - after all, one size fits all.

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To properly replace the main venturi you will need the special tool that was part of the carter repair tools.  The venturi is very thin and can  be damaged when installing the new tube. These are included in the factory rebuild kits but not in all of the newer kits that are availabel.  I have rebuilt my carb but did not take out the venturi tube but removed the plug on the body that has the tube and cleaned the hole out with carb clearner.

Get the proprer kit for your carb line the one that i located on ebay for you.  The cost was $25 and that is cheap for a factory rebuild kit.  Just my $25 dollar woth of advise.  in later years you will wish you had the original kit.

Rich Hartung

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I don't have access to my car right now to look, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if there is any rubber fuel line in the system on a 38 Plymouth? I have to drain my tank to get rid of my old fuel and I want to try to replace any rubber line I find in the system. I know there is a small piece from the metal line that goes into the fuel pump but I don't recall what is at the rear of the car. I was hoping to grab whatever I need for it today from the store before I get home tonight to work on the car.

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There is a metal line that connect to the fuel tank at the rear of the car. The metal line runs up the left side of the frame and crosses over low by the radiator to a connection point.At thispoint there is a rubber connection hose to the fuel line and then to the fuelpump.  I would suggest that if you are draining the tank that you might consider putting in an electric Fp at the rear of the car near the fuel tank as a backup pump. They run about 45 dollars and it also serves as a prinming pump.  remember 6v pump and also positive group wiring setup.

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

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1 hour ago, desoto1939 said:

There is a metal line that connect to the fuel tank at the rear of the car. The metal line runs up the left side of the frame and crosses over low by the radiator to a connection point.At thispoint there is a rubber connection hose to the fuel line and then to the fuelpump.  I would suggest that if you are draining the tank that you might consider putting in an electric Fp at the rear of the car near the fuel tank as a backup pump. They run about 45 dollars and it also serves as a prinming pump.  remember 6v pump and also positive group wiring setup.

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

 The electric pump is a great idea, but I won't have time to order one and have it installed before Saturday mornings car show. I have replaced the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor in the past but pulled off the line from the fuel pump to the metal line on the frame the other day and it literally crumbled in my hands. I just wanted to make sure there was no other line under the car that was as bad as that one.

It's also kind of strange, I drained about 4 gallons of fuel out of the tank and it doesn't look that bad or smell that bad. The stuff I found in the carburetor was very murky and smelly.

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I rebuilt my carb this morning, changed the rubber lines, cleaned the fuel bowl and siphoned as much fuel out of the tank as I could. I put 5 gallons of fresh gas in and tried to start it. It cranked forever and never got fuel in the fuel bowl. I pulled the top of the carburetor off and filled the carb fuel bowl with fuel and managed to get the engine to fire but I still had to pour fuel from a Bottle Into the carburetor to keep it running. I'm still not getting enough fuel in the fuel pump glass bowl to pump it up to the carburetor. After all that it's maybe half full. I had to take a break from it because I ran the battery down is there an easy way for me to speed up this fuel pump process? I hope something didn't go wrong inside the fuel pump I'm not sure how that could have happened since it was working fine before. I really wish I had one of those 6 volt electric pumps right now.

Dang, it took awhile but it finally got fuel....

Edited by 38plymouth
Finally got fuel
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Disconnet the rubber fuel line and then ue your compressor and blow air back into the tank. Since the tank had real old gas there might be some sedement clogging the line when the fuel come out of the tanl on the lower right cornet. Have someone stand by the filler neck to the gas tank and have them listen to hear air bubbles comeing fromthe tank.  Sounds as if you have a clogged line. You should also beable to fully drainthe tank via the  square nut that is located onthe middle bottom of the tank. This is a the drain for the tank.. You might have to drop the tank and have it cleaned if this is what need to be done then this is the time to put onthe electric fuel pump also and also put an inline fuel filter just before the electric pump to catch any crap from the fuel tank.

 

Rich Hartung

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On 11/8/2017 at 11:34 AM, 38plymouth said:

 The electric pump is a great idea, but I won't have time to order one and have it installed before Saturday mornings car show. I have replaced the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor in the past but pulled off the line from the fuel pump to the metal line on the frame the other day and it literally crumbled in my hands. I just wanted to make sure there was no other line under the car that was as bad as that one.

It's also kind of strange, I drained about 4 gallons of fuel out of the tank and it doesn't look that bad or smell that bad. The stuff I found in the carburetor was very murky and smelly.

At the risk of starting a disagreement, I would not recommend an electric fuel pump.   If you do go that route you need to reduce the fuel pressure down of you throw way to much pressure at the carb.     In terms of rebuilding the carb there are actually a number of kits, ranging from a basic gasket kit, up to kits with new accelerator pumps and a deluxe kit with new jets. 

If you cant find a kit I would suggest giving George Asche  a call  814-354-2621 for some help, or better yet for what it costs and the job he does, I would highly recommend having him rebuild it for you.  

At the end of the day I think you have discovered that Ethanol in fuel just is not for old flathead engines and carbs. Steer clear of it is the best advise of all !

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So pissed off right now I had it running great took it out for a test drive and got a quarter mile from my house and it died. Had to get my wife and neighbor to help me tow it back home I pulled the top off the carburetor and there's no fuel. When I crank it there's no fuel pumping into the carburetor now. I suspected my crappy fuel that ate the fuel lines ate the diaphragm in the fuel pump. So I pulled the fuel pump off disassembled it and I don't find anything wrong with it. I also blew back through the fuel line into the tank and could hear it bubbling. Hopefully someone has some ideas cuz I'm at a loss right now.

 

***It turned out to be a very dirty screen in the pump, I thought I took that out years ago. It pumps great now and started right up. Of course now the smooth idle on my freshly rebuilt carb is gone and it's idling very rough. I suspect the plugs, they are black from choking it to death trying to get it started while I was stranded. This thing is really testing my patience. I'm quiting for the day and am headed to the moose club to discuss it with all the old car guys. I think I need a beer.

Edited by 38plymouth
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once you get the fouled old gas issue cleared up then you should be then getting a better idle.  I have an electric FP on my 1939 and the pressure that the Electic pump pushes is arounf 3 Lbs.  You should not have any issue with pressure.  The electric pumps that are being sold by Airtex will work perfectly fine in your old car.  you can put a pressure gage on the fuel line but I do not think you will need one.  I have been running an ep for over 20+ years as a backup pump and still use the mechanical pump as my primary unit.

Rich Hartung

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A friend suggested that I try lowering the float to clean up the rough idle. I had it set to 5/64 like the kit said but lowered it anyways and now it idles and runs great. Can someone explain why a high float would cause a rough idle? I stared into the carb awhile and just don't see why it would happen.

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