Dartgame Posted November 14, 2017 Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 For the lines get some copper nickel - sold at all parts stores. Never rusts easy to bend and easy to flare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 (edited) I will look into copper nickel for the next lines I build. Today I removed all lines and hose from the master cylinder back. Both rear 2 brake lines and flex hose are now installed with new. Off to go get a long line from the master cylinder back along the frame. It'll be ok to mix copper nickel here with the 2 stainless lines? I already installed off the rear axle housing? Thanks. I'd guess the lines and hoses are original '53. Pretty rough and lots of corrosion. Especially at the hose mount bracket. The hose was stiff and hard, cracking was developing. Glad to be doing this stuff. Edited November 14, 2017 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted November 15, 2017 Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 On 11/5/2017 at 4:46 PM, keithb7 said: Hi folks, my '53 Chrysler Windsor is in for the winter. Current project is brakes. Full tear down, inspection, repair where needed, reassembly and set up. First off, this puller worked very well. I was able to get the drum off turning the threads by hand. No hammer required. That means your axle nut wasn't tight enough. Make sure you put it back to spec when you're done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted November 15, 2017 Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 19 hours ago, keithb7 said: I will look into copper nickel for the next lines I build. Today I removed all lines and hose from the master cylinder back. Both rear 2 brake lines and flex hose are now installed with new. Off to go get a long line from the master cylinder back along the frame. It'll be ok to mix copper nickel here with the 2 stainless lines? I already installed off the rear axle housing? Thanks. I'd guess the lines and hoses are original '53. Pretty rough and lots of corrosion. Especially at the hose mount bracket. The hose was stiff and hard, cracking was developing. Glad to be doing this stuff. Well if OEM been on for a long long time. These brakes work very well when in good shape and the shoes are adjusted and arced correctly to tbe drums. 12 inch brakes are great but if yours are 11 inch they are good too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 (edited) Having fun with my shop manuals from 1953. I have acquired the full 1953 Chrysler Shop Manual, and the Preliminary Manual. I also have the 1953-1954 Manual that covers Chrysler, DeSoto, Plymouth and Dodge. It seems to be a good one. It's quite thick. I also have access to and have borrowed a Chrysler Parts Manual for 1953 year. A local contact gave me an official Passenger Shop Manual from 1949. It has some of the best diagrams of them all. Glad to see that many of the diagrams from 1949 also suit my car. All are official Mopar books. Between all these books, information is hit and miss. Some diagrams and info is just plain not there. The info may be listed in the index, yet not printed in the book anywhere. No pages missing. Only 1 of the service books, the 1949 year has an actual diagram of the brake and clutch linkage. It would appear that you can never be too many manuals from different years for these Mopar era cars. Do some of you have quite a collection of parts and service manuals? Edited December 19, 2017 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 Isn't it nice to have all that knowledge about your car? The factory books are good! Answers are at your fingertips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) It appears something is awry with the rear wheel brake cylinders. The seals I took out are on the left in the pics here. The new seals that arrived are on the right. I happened to order some new cylinder piston seals from Bernbaum, as well as a Raybestos kit from Rock Auto. Both suppliers provided the fatter larger seals. The seals should be the same for the front upper cylinder and the rear on my '53 Windsor. They worked on the front upper just fine. Same as what came out. The rears, are very tight. I can get them in, not easily. They are not moving easily. Seems weird as the bores of the cylinder measured in spec. Hmm. Maybe at some point in the past 64 years someone installed different rear cylinders. Or maybe different pistons. I suppose I should maybe just order a couple of complete assembled new rear wheel cylinders. Then I should have the right parts. Edited December 20, 2017 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted February 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 Finally getting back to this project. We listed and sold out house, and moved to a new home since the last post. Craziness. I was planning to drop the master cylinder out for rebuild. I hear it can be done still installed but I think I'd rather pull it. I thought removing the floor panel may make access easier. You guys probably know this, but floor panel does not just unscrew and pop out. The clutch and brake pedal linkage seem to have to come out with the floor panel. It seems there is no way for the floor panel to come up over the pedals. Those who rebuild: Do you remove master cylinder or leave it bolted in place? Here's the big move. Car was drivable but I did not want to drive it on our wet snowy sanded, de-ice sprayed crappy roads. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 3, 2018 Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 Remove the two pedals .... Push down the two pedals as you work the pan up and over the pedal shafts. I've removed many including 53-54 cars. Easy job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted February 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 Doh! I did not see that foot pedals were bolted to levers. Thank you! Got them off. Plan slid right over pedal arms and out of the way. Love this forum. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted February 3, 2018 Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 Thats a lot of snow, and it looks like it's been melting. Winnipeg although wicked cold has a lot less snow this winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 3, 2018 Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 Too bad a lot of the new brake parts for our old MoPars are made wrong...IE those piston cups that are too bog in all directions.... I've known about this issue for several years now. I kit the wheel cylinders after a re-sleeve and use 70's through probably 90's old stock rubber. I have enough to last till I'm done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
classiccarjack Posted February 3, 2018 Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 On 11/6/2017 at 4:40 PM, jiffyjet1011 said: why have them sleeved when brand new high quality units are avail from , kanter, vintageamerican, roberts, and others. its not that technical buy em new and youll be good. why fix old junk ! ! its a basic hydraulic system with smooth bores and new rubber your good to go. every other part that you install on your car today is from overseas, what good is it to have rebuilt cylinders with new made in china brake shoes and flex rubber hoses? buy em new and dont waiste your time , your brake shoes need to be high quality as that is what stops the car! this is coming from years experience as a hydraulic press mechanic. not to mention the when they sleeve the new units they use a chine sleeve and chinese rubber since that is all that is available. NO PARTS ARE MADE IN THIS COUNTRY ANYMORE! !!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you sleeve them in bronze or stainless, the bores will not corrode. This will make the brakes last longer. If you don't drive the cars/trucks frequently, the rust sets in really quick. I am now using this method, because, I let one Power Wagon sit for a couple of years. I was waiting on a paint shop to get the body ready... Once I finally got painted parts back and got the truck assembled, the wheel cylinders began leaking(I purchased them new, installed and bled the brakes before removing the body to bring to the paint shop). The first vehicle I sleeved with bronze was about 23 years ago(1959 D100), the truck doesn't get driven much. Last fall I bumped into the guy I sold the truck to and he told me that he changed the brake fluid and there were no leaks anywhere. He did it as a maintenance procedure, and mentioned that he was impressed that the wheel cylinders and master cylinder were still good. I now believe in sleeving because of this. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 (edited) Whoohoo! The best Saturday night in recent memory. LOL. Edited February 4, 2018 by keithb7 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 (edited) I am quite enjoying these new -to-me jobs. I have a few questions for the experts: The master cylinder housing. Is it ok to hot tank it? I'd like to clean it up like new somehow. The cir-clips seen bottom right in the above photo. They go over the groove in the pivot shaft for the pedals. They seem kind of old and weak to me. Are these readily available to buy? Maybe I can replace them with proper expanding c-clips with the eyes in the ends for the c-clip pliers? Some of the linkage is pretty loosey-goosey. I am going to see what I can do to tighten a few things up. The rod from the clutch pedal for example. I suppose this is normal wear and tear for a 65 year old car. Have you folks had much luck sourcing some replacement linkage parts? The grit and grime under there is extensive. I am going to spend a few hours scraping and degreasing everything I can. Question about the cylinder. Is this a brass sleeve insert seen here? Or factory installed? Edited February 4, 2018 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Many of the linkage rods for both my brakes and clutch had holes that were egg shaped and wallowed out. I brazed then closed and re-drilled new holes. And I replaced the pins with new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 BTW.....in Dons pic above the clutch pivots have a red grease where they pivot......in Oz mopars of the 40's there are a pair of diecast spheres that the pivot balls encapsulate(my big word for the night...........lol).........years ago I found that 1960 & 70's Oz Valiants used the exact same spheres in their clutch mechanisms only they were made from white nylon and were a straight swap for the older worn 2 piece diecast spheres..........dunno if you guys had these nylon pieces..............andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 3 hours ago, Andydodge said: BTW.....in Dons pic above the clutch pivots have a red grease where they pivot......in Oz mopars of the 40's there are a pair of diecast spheres that the pivot balls encapsulate(my big word for the night...........lol).........years ago I found that 1960 & 70's Oz Valiants used the exact same spheres in their clutch mechanisms only they were made from white nylon and were a straight swap for the older worn 2 piece diecast spheres..........dunno if you guys had these nylon pieces..............andyd There is a split bearing (6-52-11 in the drawing below) that fits inside the dog bone. They were made of medal in my P-15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 (edited) My linkage is a little different than what you guys are showing. I found this pic on line. This is like mine. Does anyone have a parts book for a 53 by chance? Maybe could scan me a better pic of this linkage? The pic below said it was for a Plymouth(?). This one I found is small and hard to read. Thanks, Keith. Edited February 4, 2018 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Some C62 clutch pic's......... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) Foiled again. I ordered the Master Cylinder re-build kit before taking mine apart. Seems I have a 1" bore. The new kit I ordered from Bernbaum reads 1 1/8" inch. Original piston on right, Bernbaum kit on left. I assume I am at 1" due to the brass insert? Seen in pic above. Edited February 6, 2018 by keithb7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 The picture below shows 2 different sizes from the factory. The silver one is one inch and the others are one and one eighth inches. Using the one inch cylinder will require less pedal pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 1" M/cylinders are some what common. I have seen them factory on both standard brakes and always on 1950-54 power brake cars. I doubt the sleeve was installed to both fix the cylinder bore and bring the bore down to 1" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Brakes...The hard way. LOL. Oh well. Best way to retain this stuff is to learn from your mistakes I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
classiccarjack Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Did your sleeved bore measure out good? Perhaps you can clean it up and reuse it? Just curious... P.S.- small bores = more pressure Large bores = higher volume Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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