Bryan Posted October 31, 2017 Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 I've read so many posts on oiling I'm about blind. Decided I'm not going to a full flow system, or closing squirt holes, or enlarging the channel in the lower bearings. Thinking of placing a 1/4" shim or thinner washer behind the bypass relief spring to increase the oil pressure, and maybe having the crank cross drilled. After a future overhaul planning to use 10-30W normal oil for break in and then switching to synthetic oil with 5K change intervals. Comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted October 31, 2017 Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 9 hours ago, Bryan said: I've read so many posts on oiling I'm about blind. Decided I'm not going to a full flow system, or closing squirt holes, or enlarging the channel in the lower bearings. Thinking of placing a 1/4" shim or thinner washer behind the bypass relief spring to increase the oil pressure, and maybe having the crank cross drilled. After a future overhaul planning to use 10-30W normal oil for break in and then switching to synthetic oil with 5K change intervals. Comments? Why? What oil pressure do you have? What do you expect to gain by increasing the oil pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 31, 2017 Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 Are you building a race engine? Do you think Dodge engineers were wrong in designing the oil and lube systems and pressures? What is the current condition of the engine? Suggest you stop reading and determine a base line before you go charging off to the shim store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted October 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 (edited) Current condition is not running because of a knocking low end bearing. That's why I kept it parked for the last few years while I was out of country. Never raced it and not planning to. Just thought instead of making wild mods I would increase the oil pressure slightly when I get it overhauled. Dave Pollock -> "It is also prudent to install a new rotor type pump. Putting a 1/4" spacer behind the relief valve spring gives an additional boost in oil pressure. With these modifications, the oil pressure gauge will show about 40 lb at idle and between 60 and 70 lb at 30 mph. If your block has a full-flow filter as later Chrysler and DeSoto blocks (to 1954) do, great! If it has the bypass type, make sure it is correctly hooked up. The drain goes from the bottom of the canister through the pressure relief valve (hole faces straight up). Be satisfied that it is not reducing pressure." Edited October 31, 2017 by Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 A freshened engine with stock parts should reliably make 35 to 45 psi oil pressure which is more than sufficient for normal operating conditions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 (edited) even some of Mopars later high performance V8's followed the same oil pressure curve as this flathead...approx. 10 lbs per 1000 RPM...at normal operating temp...will rad higher when oil is cold... Edited November 1, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted November 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 So I reckon nobody would do anything like this either. Had a fleeting fancy about a pre-oiler that one could flip on before starting the engine. When one gets bored after doing everything else and has money oozing out his ears... look about 3/4 down the site. https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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