Bryan Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Was wondering what are some methods people have used for rust underneath their rides? The front end parts (engine compartment side panels, radiator shrouds, mud deflectors) I'm taking off and having sand blasted when I go to remove the engine for overhauling. But I have partial starting rust "specks" underneath on the floor, main frame sections with partial rust, and a few frame members and suspension parts that are fully rusted. The fully rusted parts I was thinking about Rustoleum's Rust Converter after removing loose rust. I just want something that will hold and not have rust coming back in 2 years. Any experience suggestions from members? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Going to replace brake & fuel lines. Already bought a new gas tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 the Rustoleum is a good product but in not the Answer in a Can but a step in the right direction. I recommend the removal of the loose dirt and rust scale with a power brush or scraper followed by a good application or two of phosphoric acid, then you may use the converter if you like followed by a scuff with a 3M pad and paint of your choice OR after the acid treatment, go straight to Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer...this stuff is ideal for this application BUT you must allow it to properly cure before top coating or trying to scuff....it has fish oil..what oil is not absorbed into the rust to neutralize it must work its way to the surface and evaporate of. FOLLOW the instruction online more so than what is on the can. Once dry it sands as smooth and easy as any top grade primer will. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Wow, that's in good condition. Where I live that would be considered normal paint wear with minor oxidation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said: I recommend the removal of the loose dirt and rust scale with a power brush or scraper followed by a good application or two of phosphoric acid, then you may use the converter if you like followed by a scuff with a 3M pad and paint of your choice OR after the acid treatment, go straight to Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer... What would the phosphoric acid do to the remaining paint underneath? Or do you mean to just use it on the pure rust areas? BJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 beauty of phosphoric acid...if the paint shows rust then that is only because the surface is no long solid and had become porous...this very porosity will now work in your favor as the acid will be absorbed by the rusty substrate for treatment...I have pictures here of a car that is enveloped by surface rust that after a phosphoric bath you would think is a daily driver paint job....yes it is that good....hold out is remarkable....for the doubters, try it, you will like it...but like all things..you must follow proper steps for best results I had metal I treated with 80% that after 8 years without primer or paint and not garaged, still showed no sign of rust on the bare metal. Percentage and proper application...learn it..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conn47D24 Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 On my D24 Frame I have spent many hours degreasing, wire brush and sanding. THEN, the POR-15 multi step process. Their degreaser, there metal prep, and then 2 coats of the Chassis Black ( brushed on ), and a spray Top Coat. Bryan, on any removable parts like you, I replaced or cleaned, blasted and did the above process OFF the car. lots of crawling around under the car. Had it high up on truck jacks that helped my back ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conn47D24 Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Keep at it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 What's a good source of premixed P-acid? Also I have the car in a cement floor garage about 18" off the ground. Guess I'll need my chainsaw face shield. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted October 31, 2017 Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 I went the POR15 route on my 52 about 13 years ago and have had no return of rust. Not as fancy as the one with top coat but the under carriage is still in good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsartain Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 (edited) POR-15 is a good product available at a lot of Hardware stores, auto supply, and Paint Supply. Kleen Strip Prep-n-Etch is a product carried by Home depot and Lowes and other building supply stores. Follow the mixing directions or go stronger. I have used pure undiluted product of each with no bad effects. I do recommend cleaning as much rust as possible from the part to be treated. There no real magic cure for thick rust. It really has no effect on bare unrusted or oxidated metal but most exposed sheet metal will have some degree of surface rust. It converts rust to Iron Phosphate which is a rust inhibited coating. You will notice on even unrusted sheet metal that it gives the metal a dark grayish patina. This is an iron phosphate coating. Both POR 15 and Kleen-Strip say you can paint directly over their product when dry. Edited November 3, 2017 by johnsartain 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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