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MarcDeSoto

Where do you buy door checks?

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My 48 DeSoto needs a new door check for the driver door.  Does anyone sell these, or will I have comb junk yards for one?  If you are not sure what a door check is, it's the small arm that stops the door from opening all the way to where the back edge of the front fender slices into your door.   That's what happened to my car long before I bought it.   Thanks, Marc.

Edited by MarcDeSoto

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I have no idea where you could come by originals but I've used these on VW Type 1's with one-piece window conversions. If you can't find anything and 100% originality isn't an issue you could probably adapt them to your car or come up with something similar on your own. At least your door would stop where you want it.

http://www.jbugs.com/product/9756.html

Necessity is a mother...

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The door checks on my 39 Plym P8 conv cpe are a typical flat metal bar with a round rubber pad one end, open on the other with a 1/8" hole for the very stiff cotter pin.

I looked all over for a source, finally ordered door checks for a 36 Ford from Bob Drake. had to shorten them down a bit and re-drill the hole for the pin. They worked great.

I went to Drake because Ford and Chrysler used a lot of Briggs and Murray bodies. The deck lid seals, A & B pillar weather seals for the convertibles are the same, Ford & Chrysler 1936-41, maybe even later.

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the Ford source was going to be the one I quote him HAD he actually answered the question as to what he needed....I sourced these rubbers and as stated, cut the to the correct thickness for our Mopar application...cheap and effective at the same time.  I stumbled across these at a swap meet that had the early Ford rubber parts on a display board..

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I inspected my car and I found the door check arm hanging inside the door.  What happened many decades ago, is the swivel part of the door check that attaches to the front body of the car, door jamb?, broke off.  Maybe I can find a replacement, or try to weld it back on?  

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If there is not enough of the swivel bracket left to weld onto the door jam why not weld it to a small piece of say 12-14 guage metal then bolt/weld that to the pillar/door jam......andyd

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 the metal suffers fatigue in this area will split where the rivets hold the door check locking tab in place.  it is a very tight area to access and do the repair.  In doing this, I   repair the original metal surface I then overlay and weld a metal patch before attaching the locking tab back in place.  You may have to cut a section of the door outer inner shell for room to work depending on severity of the damage and weld this back on when the repair is done.

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I just drilled some small holes where the spot welds were and bolted on the broken off supports that take the end of the door stop. I did have to get a couple of used parts from another vehicle. When bolted, it is easy to do and removable if necessary.

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