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Spring under axle rear b2b


Jj1981

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I have been back and forth on lowering the rear by flipping the brackets and swapping them around so that the shock mounts are still on the correct side. Does anybody have pics of this or their truck with the springs under the rear thanks

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JJ, research this, it seems to my poor memory, that some leaf springs are designed to push down on the axle, not hang from it. I removed the 2nd leaf from the bottom on all four springs for a nice 2" drop front and back. 

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Yes, while inexpensive, it's a lot of work. With the spring racks part i put the DA sander to all the leaves before I reassembled them. With the 2" drop, the center of gravity is lower so, it is much much better on curves and corners, yet it is still an old truck, '52 Dodge

 

IMG_6923.JPG

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You wont have room between the springs and frame for the axle.

Yes you could get it in there, but would be no room left for travel, frame would be sitting on the axle housing all the time..

 

I am in the middle of swapping out my rear end on my 49 truck. I pulled a rear end from a 52 plymouth.

The plymouth sits on top of the springs, I figured to keep my truck a roller, would just put it in my truck on top of the springs.

Esy peasy! yes it would temporarily be a low rider, but I would swap it around at a later stage. (I need to roll the truck from the back 40 to the shop, to get access to the welder)

 

So anyways, this is exactly where am at, I have the plymouth rear end sitting next to the truck, I actually look at the two of them and is a real DOH! moment ... sure I might get it in there, but creating a plan B would be a better solution.

 

On our trucks, the spring perches are on the out side of the frame, this allows the  springs to be moved up closer to the frame, they still get full travel and truck does not sit to high.

 

On the plymouth, the spring perches are on the bottom of the frame, this leaves lots of room to set the rear end on top and still have travel.

You can see from the photo, I could get the rear end in on top the springs, by the time I got the weight of a bed on it, the frame would be resting on the axle.

IMG_20170916_173329982.jpg

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With the 2nd ro the bottom leaf removed, both front and back, body lowered 2" all four corners. 

I also put 205 R 15 tires on the front, 235 R 15 tires on the back. I hauled a 218 engine in the bed @ 800 +\- # and it drove just fine. 

Edited by pflaming
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I am constantly baffled by all the talk of lowering these trucks. Not sure why there is so much interest and effort put into this process? I have about 10,000 miles on my B-3-C now and am extremely happy with it's ride qualities. I just can't imagine messing about with the standard set up. It is easily the nicest riding and handling solid front axle vintage truck in these parts. IMO the factory got it right from the beginning. And no.....I don't think they look any better lowered. ;)

Jeff

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1 hour ago, Jeff Balazs said:

I am constantly baffled by all the talk of lowering these trucks. Not sure why there is so much interest and effort put into this process? I have about 10,000 miles on my B-3-C now and am extremely happy with it's ride qualities. I just can't imagine messing about with the standard set up. It is easily the nicest riding and handling solid front axle vintage truck in these parts. IMO the factory got it right from the beginning. And no.....I don't think they look any better lowered. ;)

Jeff

same song and dance routine on the car side also......KISKIR

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On 10/20/2017 at 3:13 PM, pflaming said:

Jeff, at what height are your front and rear bumpers or the leading and trailing ends of your running boards? If memory serves me correct, my bumpers TOB are 193/4" .

paul

 

 

Paul

Top of my front bumper is 17 1/2".......rear is 19 1/2".

The only reason I commented is that in my opinion messing about with the standard spring set up opens up a can of worms. When you play around with this you alter geometry that was designed for a specific ride height and spring rate. Yes it can be done but it needs to be done very carefully as ride quality and alignment is pretty much as important as good brakes.

Jeff

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Mine are 17 1/2 front and rear. Most who have driven my truck comment on how it tracks like a train. Jeff I'm not sure I agree. I did not alter the bottom geometry of the steering etc., I only let the body down lower which lowered the center of gravity thus places less stress on all suspension and steering parts and gives a better, more stable ride. The trucks back when we're set up for ground clearance and load depression and the tall thin tires to cut through mud and snow. Those conditions no longer exist for the most part. I'm pleased aand that's what counts and I do like what you've done to your truck, you must get thumbs up signs repeatedly.

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Paul;

Hardly a day goes by that it doesn't get at least a thumbs up. But that is just the nature of these trucks....and the people who actually appreciate them for what they really are. :)

When you pulled springs out to change the ride height or stance you most definitely changed the geometry. And more importantly you altered the amount of suspension travel available. This may not of had any adverse effect on your steering but it certainly changed the loading characteristics of the springs and shocks. No one ever complains about how my truck rides with the stock spring packs and I am still able to carry heavy loads safely. I have carried in excess of 1000# several times in the last 6 months. Blows a lot of peoples minds...... I can't tell you how many times I get asked why I am using this to haul stuff like this. My response is always the same....it is just an old work truck. Drives the car show guys nuts......

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Jeff,

I don't want to get in the middle of this argument, but I just want to remind you that your 3/4 ton truck has a longer wheel base than Paul's 1/2 ton and that also makes a BIG difference in ride quality. I also have no complaints on the ride of my truck with the stock suspension, and have received compliments on how well it rides for a 60+ year old truck. 

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Merle;

It is not an argument.......just a discussion. And you are quite correct about the longer wheel base part of the equation. I intentionally held out until I found this 3/4 ton for this very reason.

I reckon my comments are of a cautionary nature. I just hate to see a perfectly usable truck potentially messed up. And doing this sort of modification is one of those situations that need to be very carefully thought out.  We have all seen the results of too much alteration and not enough careful thinking. That is all I am trying to say.

Jeff

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Los Control;

I do get that. :) But that could put the "ideal" height in a pretty broad range depending on the owners stature. My view of this is that the height of the vehicle was well determined by the manufacturer during the design process. We are all free to treat this as we wish. My hope is that we all treat this with some respect towards the longevity of these fine trucks. They are after all pretty sweet just as they were built.

Jeff

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I want my trucks higher and higher.....I can see over the traffic better.

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I want my truck to go faster and faster......so lower works for me.

My feeling about these old dodge trucks...ANY truck saved by someone who wants to drive it, no matter how its set up, is better

than a truck lost to the crusher. That's why I save every truck I can.

48D 

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  • 1 month later...

I have also run what Oil Soup recommended for quite a while and it works well and is easy.

Now, for even a smoother ride I run the Jeep shackles and only 4 leaves with about the same drop. However, mine is a hot rod and never carries any weight in the bed.

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