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Radiator question


Greg F

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I just had a 55 Dodge 230 put into my 40 Plymouth.  The guys installing it say that there is flown the radiator and the water pump is working well, but still runs hot.  Is it possible that the stock radiator is not enough for the bigger engine?  Should I just buy a new aluminum radiator and see if that helps?  They tell me its timed right.

I'm getting the feeling this so called "hot rod shop" does not know what they are doing, and its pissing me off.  Thats what I get for finally paying someone for something I should have done for myself.  Thanks for any help getting her back on the road.

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When I drove it home it over heated(212), so took it back.  Now they say up around 190, but then coolant comes out the top when they shut it down.  There is a thermostat in it.  I'm to the point I'm going to go down get it, bring it home, and work on it myself.  ERRRR!

Edited by Greg F
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Do not keep trying to top it off all the way to the top..there is to be expansion room in the top tank...second, do you have a digital infrared thermometer....this will allow you to ascertain the actual heat within the block   throughout the cooing system...DO RUN a thermostat..it not only allows the block to warm up but when open the hole is of the proper size to allow the proper flow of water...not to big to prevent water from saturation but big enough to prevent oversaturation..is the timing a bit advanced by chance...makes them run very well but also allow them to run hotter temp wise..and lastly, did you take the time to purge the block before install to properly clean the sludge from the bottom of the block and inspect the distribution tube.....and ensure that the lower hose has a spring in it to prevent suction collapse if you have deleted the metal u-tube...

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Good advice from P.A.  You need that room at top of  radiator for expansion. Also the distibution tube in the new engine is suspect if it was not checked prior to installation. My  radiator appeared to be circulating  fine but took it to a shop. It was mostly plugged. They recored it using original tanks and now works great.

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Is there known history of the 230 engine? Water distribution tube condition? Scale rust build up in the block? Coolant needs to flow freely around all cylinders, head, thermostat, hoses and rad. Scale and rust build up in the block will impede flow. 

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You can also add an expansion tank(overflow) tank to the radiator. That will allow you to run more coolant in the radiator and when it expands into the tank, as the motor cools a vacuum will pull the coolant back into the radiator which will keep it topped off.

 

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Stock radiator is fine. Do the basics as already mentioned: Check hoses, pull the water distribution tube (replace if needed), flush the block (pull the welsh plugs and flush till clear) pull the radiator and flush, run 160 degree stat, non pressure radiator cap, verify the water pump is functional.

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https://youtu.be/ZeyG_46U6CA

 

Not sure if this helps or hinders progress. Here were my readings. My car is running great. Not overheating. I have driven up slow hills in 100 weather. No overheat. I flushed rad too. That seemed to help.

Here is after I flushed the rad. Considerable scale did come out. At the time I was unsure if this was enough flow. Upon reassembly the car did seem to run cooler.

https://youtu.be/8J6Zy9FVLRo

Edited by keithb7
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