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New topic: Water pump removal.  Just had a broken valve spring fixed and car runs great.........Well, now that I've been running it, it now has now developed a leak at the water pump. It looks like the leak is coming from where the fan pulley attaches to the water pump.  How difficult is it to remove/repair/reinstall the water pump? When I was just looking at the water pump housing, it seems like the cylinder head is in the way of removing a bolt to take off the water pump assembly--unless that is a bolt that is for the back plate of the water pump (maybe called 'cover plate'??? not sure if I am using the correct nomenclature).  I wouldn't think that the head would be in the way for any bolts that hold on the water pump assembly. When reading the 1949-1950 Chrysler shop manual it didn't mention anything about the head being in the way. Here is exactly what the manual says for the REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF WATER PUMP: (1) Drain cooling system; (2) Remove fan belt and disconnect water pump hose; (3) Remove bolts holding water pump to engine block and lift out water pump and fan assembly. Is it really  that easy? Am I just making is seem complicated?  I am looking forward to some suggestions.  Thanks Guys!              On another note, where can I find the parts that I need for my car? I have been using Andy Bernbaum, but I've had difficulty with their customer service when they sent me the wrong part...its been over 3 weeks and still haven't received the correct part (I am not exaggerating) but they charged me immediately for the wrong part....

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Clarksville.........my listings shows that Chrysler 6's used the same water pump from 1936 to 1954, same one that Plymouth & Dodge used from 1935-1950.........I know that the water pumps that are now sold have an improved circular impeller and sealed non greasable bearings rather than the old style impeller that had a pair of opposing blades and used greasable bushings...........the old style impellers also had rebuild kits available and I can remember having to redo the rebuild job as there was a fibre washer that had a tendency to break..........the water pumps I've seen listed on ebay all seem to be the new type but check around....I obtained a new pump for the 41 Plymouth I had a few years ago and it was the new style...........a much better design........whilst you are playing water pumps, check the condition of the water distribution tube that lives behind the water pump in the block......if its corroded then it should be replaced although you may curse me for this suggestion as it can be a PITA job..........just make sure you get the correct water tube which "should" be to suit the 25" engine which your Chrysler should have........also worth checking the condition of the radiator hoses including whether you have a metal lower tube or coiled wire inside a one piece lower hose.....either maybe present..........depending on clearance between the radiator and the fan its sometimes better/easier to remove the fan from the fan hub then take it off, usually four 1/2" bolts then you can usually see where the water pump bolts are.............its worthwhile using a piece of cardboard to push the removed bolts into so that you can see which go where as they are different lengths..............also note that some water may come out of the block from some bolt holes.....make a NOTE of which ones..............then once the pump is removed the backing plate can be taken off and is usually cleaned up and used with a new gasket on the new water pump.............if you are not sure which bolts leaked water then work on the principle that they ALL go into the water jacket and after cleaning the bolt threads use some pipe sealer or Permatex type gasket Goo to coat the threads on all bolts and reinstall.............I think that there are torque settings for these bolts but so long as they are done up tight you should be good to go.............trust this helps........welcome & regards from Oz.......Andy Douglas      

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10 hours ago, Clarksville Windsor said:

 Is it really that easy?

Yes. You can trust the factory shop manual and Motors Automobile Repair Manuals. If they tell you something is that simple,it is that simple.

My only additional suggestions would be to tape a piece of cardboard cut to the size of the radiator core to the radiator to keep from accidentally damaging any fins accidentally, as well as to save the skin on your hands.  Old radiator cores are nasty things,and they create nasty,infected cuts that make your hands sore.

The next thing to do is remove the fan before you loosen the fan belt or do anything else. Putting the fan back on should be the next to last thing you do,and removing the cardboard should be the last thing you do.

Don't ask me how I know this.

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  As to your other question, a good source of parts is

Roberts Motor Parts phone: 978 363 5407. I've had

great luck dealing with them. You would also be

surprised at how much stuff is available at your local

Auto Zone, NAPA, Advance Auto stores, etc.

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I know it's a little extra work but 4 bolts and 2 hose clamps later and the raidaitor is out of the way, atleast that is how I did it in my 48, much easier than fighting with it.

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11 hours ago, Andydodge said:

Clarksville.........my listings shows that Chrysler 6's used the same water pump from 1936 to 1954, same one that Plymouth & Dodge used from 1935-1950.........I know that the water pumps that are now sold have an improved circular impeller and sealed non greasable bearings rather than the old style impeller that had a pair of opposing blades and used greasable bushings...........the old style impellers also had rebuild kits available and I can remember having to redo the rebuild job as there was a fibre washer that had a tendency to break..........the water pumps I've seen listed on ebay all seem to be the new type but check around....I obtained a new pump for the 41 Plymouth I had a few years ago and it was the new style...........a much better design........whilst you are playing water pumps, check the condition of the water distribution tube that lives behind the water pump in the block......if its corroded then it should be replaced although you may curse me for this suggestion as it can be a PITA job..........just make sure you get the correct water tube which "should" be to suit the 25" engine which your Chrysler should have........also worth checking the condition of the radiator hoses including whether you have a metal lower tube or coiled wire inside a one piece lower hose.....either maybe present..........depending on clearance between the radiator and the fan its sometimes better/easier to remove the fan from the fan hub then take it off, usually four 1/2" bolts then you can usually see where the water pump bolts are.............its worthwhile using a piece of cardboard to push the removed bolts into so that you can see which go where as they are different lengths..............also note that some water may come out of the block from some bolt holes.....make a NOTE of which ones..............then once the pump is removed the backing plate can be taken off and is usually cleaned up and used with a new gasket on the new water pump.............if you are not sure which bolts leaked water then work on the principle that they ALL go into the water jacket and after cleaning the bolt threads use some pipe sealer or Permatex type gasket Goo to coat the threads on all bolts and reinstall.............I think that there are torque settings for these bolts but so long as they are done up tight you should be good to go.............trust this helps........welcome & regards from Oz.......Andy Douglas      

I really appreciate all these suggestions and instructions. I've done things with some newer vehicles like my 86 CJ7... I personally converted my Straight 6 from the Carter carburetor to an EFI system using a late 90's 4.3 L Vortec wiring harness from an s-10. Lots of technical work, some air intake adapter plates,installing an ecm, fuel pressure lines, electric fuel pump, etc etc etc, but I haven't done anything with these older cars. 

 

I'm a pretty quick learner with some helpful  guys that have experience , but when something is new to , it's like trying to hold a baby for the first time.... I don't want to break it .

 I really appreciate all of these suggestions and advice that everybody has given me. This blog is very helpful to me thanks to all of you. I just wish I knew how to reply to the individual comments when I have a specific question. For example, if "Billy Bob" told me to put a screw-on, I would like to be able to specifically respond to "Billy Bob", but I don't know how to do that..

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Scroll to the bottom of billy bob's advice and in RED LETTERS it says quote, click on that and reply.

There are 2 different gaskets one for internal bypass and one for external bypass make sure you have the right one.

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I am new on this forum, so first of all let me thank administradors to let me in..................I have a Plymouth Special Deluxe  1949 P18, i rebuilted the car for 6 years and  now it is running weel, but some problens are appearing  from time to time. Water pump is one of them, engine and water pump are originals and water circulating is working well, no leak when engine running but few ours after engine stop it is possible to see a leak in the back of water pump, i guess in the midle of it. I did gasket replacement one time during water pump rebuild but problem is still there. So please any help will be wellcome. Thanks

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3 minutes ago, Jorge La Porta said:

I am new on this forum, so first of all let me thank administradors to let me in..................I have a Plymouth Special Deluxe  1949 P18, i rebuilted the car for 6 years and  now it is running weel, but some problens are appearing  from time to time. Water pump is one of them, engine and water pump are originals and water circulating is working well, no leak when engine running but few ours after engine stop it is possible to see a leak in the back of water pump, i guess in the midle of it. I did gasket replacement one time during water pump rebuild but problem is still there. So please any help will be wellcome. Thanks

Jorge,you need to rebuild the pump. The shaft and/or shaft bushing is worn,and when they start leaking like you described,that is a early warning that the pump is going to fail soon and that you need to rebuild or replace it.

One thing is for certain,the leak is only going to keep getting worse.

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I already did it during mechanical rebuilding, I do not thing problem is in the internal parts  (i replace

the shaft and shaft bushing recently). The leak is on the back of the pump, betwen pump back and head and as I wrote no leak while engine is running. Maybe you are right about but when I saw pictures above I do imagine metal plate behind my P18 pump can have some holes too. Do you think it is possible?

 

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 '...  I do imagine metal plate behind my P18 pump can have some holes too. Do you think it is possible? "     Yes it is possible , I had one with holes on another make of car . Did you  seal the gasket on the back on both sides ?

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3 hours ago, Jorge La Porta said:

I already did it during mechanical rebuilding, I do not thing problem is in the internal parts  (i replace

the shaft and shaft bushing recently). The leak is on the back of the pump, betwen pump back and head and as I wrote no leak while engine is running. Maybe you are right about but when I saw pictures above I do imagine metal plate behind my P18 pump can have some holes too. Do you think it is possible?

 

I just replaced my water pump on my 1950 Windsor. One of the bolts on the backing plate on my new water pump  was loose . So whoever put that backplate on that water pump at the factory, didn't tighten the bolts enough. I tightened them just a little and it worked after that. Mine stopped leaking right away. I hope you will have the same result.

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Also at least one of the bolts that mount the water pump to the engine goes into the water jacket . Did you seal the threads ? On the backing plate , I usually remove the plate and use sealant on both surfaces . 

Edited by Jerry Roberts

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On 12/10/2017 at 11:28 PM, Clarksville Windsor said:

New topic: Water pump removal.  Just had a broken valve spring fixed and car runs great.........Well, now that I've been running it, it now has now developed a leak at the water pump. It looks like the leak is coming from where the fan pulley attaches to the water pump.  How difficult is it to remove/repair/reinstall the water pump? When I was just looking at the water pump housing, it seems like the cylinder head is in the way of removing a bolt to take off the water pump assembly--unless that is a bolt that is for the back plate of the water pump (maybe called 'cover plate'??? not sure if I am using the correct nomenclature).  I wouldn't think that the head would be in the way for any bolts that hold on the water pump assembly. When reading the 1949-1950 Chrysler shop manual it didn't mention anything about the head being in the way. Here is exactly what the manual says for the REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF WATER PUMP: (1) Drain cooling system; (2) Remove fan belt and disconnect water pump hose; (3) Remove bolts holding water pump to engine block and lift out water pump and fan assembly. Is it really  that easy? Am I just making is seem complicated?  I am looking forward to some suggestions.  Thanks Guys!              On another note, where can I find the parts that I need for my car? I have been using Andy Bernbaum, but I've had difficulty with their customer service when they sent me the wrong part...its been over 3 weeks and still haven't received the correct part (I am not exaggerating) but they charged me immediately for the wrong part....

 

DSCN4351.JPG

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Thank you all about water pump information, I will work on it and I will observe all advices about seal the threads on the  backing plate and  gasket seal too, possible holes on backplate and bolts tighten. For sure I will be free of leaking............I hope..................................Regards

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Fernando, thanks for posting the pic showing the fibre washer that I mentioned in my post in this thread.........this is one reason why I would suggest gettinga newly made water pump as they have a sealed bearing but are obviously a more expensive proposition than just a rebuild kit but its a personal choice..............andyd

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