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TomP

PT125 Rebuild

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After getting used to my 41 truck it's time to start tearing it down read to make it good for the next 76 years. Couple of threads that relate to my previous work on this truck "Got me a 41 Truck" and "T142 engine"

 

 

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I've got a FRESH 265 30 over 10 10 crank pro rebuilt and a Torque Flight , If you are interested. Charlie Stephenson

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21 hours ago, Charlie Stephenson said:

I've got a FRESH 265 30 over 10 10 crank pro rebuilt and a Torque Flight , If you are interested. Charlie Stephenson

Thanks Charlie but the T142 will do what I need, something to move it about on and off the trailer etc. price of fuel is possible 4 times what you pay so it wont be doing a lot of miles.

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Surprised me how quick you can pull one of these down, only a couple of hrs work there so far, first I removed the front hood anchor plate lift all 4 sections off the hood in 1.  Remove the inner splash shields,  then pull the radiator followed by the L/H fender and remove the bolts of the R/H fender, the rad shell tie rods were already removed. Remove all the bolts holding the top half rad shell and grille together, please bear in mind that the truck is in a shipping container, tight against the right hand side. My other 2 are in my workshop where I spend most of my free time.

Edited by TomP

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18 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Good job. You must not live in the rust belt. It can take us a couple hours just for one bolt sometimes. :rolleyes:

Thanks Merle, this one spent most of it's life in Utah in and around Tooele, it was 1 of 601 built in the LA plant. Rust is an enemy to us all here in the UK is one of the worst, bare metal rusts for a past time. I did have some bolts that sheared straight off with very little pressure they will have to be drilled out and unscrewed with the easy-outs.

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4 hours ago, BlueberryDodge said:

Thanks for the pics. I hope you continue to post progress. It will give the rest of us courage to get dirty.

You want dirt this is the T142 before and during, after is complete color wise but will have to wait for photos

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Few more updates from last week, engine trans is ready to go in, just got to clean up the frame, blast & spray, 3 coats Rustoleum, Firewall will be John Deere Green as it was in service. Rust repair to be completed on both sides of the cab, did they all go there?

 

 

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Tom, I was stationed in England for almost eight years over my military career,.....you have a very nice truck....I am wondering how inspection goes for these old trucks.....as I remember it is a pain just for vehicles that are 10 years old like it was on my old Volvo when I was there....

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18 minutes ago, JaysonK said:

Tom, I was stationed in England for almost eight years over my military career,.....you have a very nice truck....I am wondering how inspection goes for these old trucks.....as I remember it is a pain just for vehicles that are 10 years old like it was on my old Volvo when I was there....

Thanks for your kind comments, regs are getting easier all the time, from May next Vehicles over 40 yrs old wont even need an MOT, as I understand it stock as long as roadworthy will automatically receive a ticket once registered, none stock will get 1 point deducted for each change to a max. of 10, over 10 will have to go for SVA (Single Vehicle Appraisal) plus be put on a Q plate. 

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On 10/29/2017 at 4:23 PM, TomP said:

Thanks for your kind comments, regs are getting easier all the time, from May next Vehicles over 40 yrs old wont even need an MOT, as I understand it stock as long as roadworthy will automatically receive a ticket once registered, none stock will get 1 point deducted for each change to a max. of 10, over 10 will have to go for SVA (Single Vehicle Appraisal) plus be put on a Q plate. 

Guess I should have drove much older vehicles, lol 

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On 10/31/2017 at 10:18 PM, BlueberryDodge said:

Engine turned out excellent. I am excited to see it mounted.

Working in the front end of a container is pants, trying to shotblast the frame rails is proving too slow, so have another piece of kit on it's way to me.

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 Been a while since posting here, moved along a little with this 41, have stripped the bodywork off of the front end so that I could prepare it for a 1947 T142 engine trans that has been de-coked and tidied in readiness for fitting.

Still can't embed Photos into text 

Primed, Frame with 2 coats of Rust-Oleum, 2 Coates John Deere Green in keeping with it's former life, plus the engine waiting to be fired up.

 

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Edited by TomP

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Interesting thread. Please update regularly. I agree you are working in a very tight space but at some point you will have to pull it out. Tough to open a door or pull a rear axle.:eek:

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Thanks for your support gents, nice to know fellow Mopar guys find the time to browse the threads, here in the UK space for lock-up are a premium, already have 500 sq ft an ex farmers barn which is not suitable for modern farming. I bought my container as an over spill then had the opportunity to buy my 41 Plymouth PT125 and lost my surplus space. None of the photos show the fact that the floor of the container is 2 ft above ground level, fortunately I have a large flatbed trailer tiltbed so getting the truck out will be a dream, here's today's helping.

 

 

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It's in all bar one 9/16unf bolt which screws into the rear floating bracket, will need to remove the lower bolt which is a nut & bolt fixing, then wedge the gape  to see when the holes aligned, I will try the mirror on a stick with a torch but there's not alot of room. Getting to old for this rockin n rolling on the floor.

 

 

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I had a heck of a time with those bolts on my 47 project. I believe the proper method is to install them to the bellhousing and then do the rubber mounts. I already had my mounts installed so I fought with aligning those 4 bolts.

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Hi Ed, yes the longest way is usually the quickest, my problem was that I couldn’t get the split pin out, short of cutting the head off and I didn’t have a spare. The drivers side I took the bottom nut & bolt back out and the did the treaded top one first, the bottom hole you can get a good view of so put a pry bar to twist the bracket. Did the same on the other side but it would not play.  There’s always tomorrow.

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On 4/10/2018 at 10:33 PM, Young Ed said:

I had a heck of a time with those bolts on my 47 project. I believe the proper method is to install them to the bellhousing and then do the rubber mounts. I already had my mounts installed so I fought with aligning those 4 bolts.

 

 Job Done, in the end I removed the 4 screws which hold the right hand rear floating mount, within an hour the bracket was aligned to the mounting and bolted back into the frame. Didn't even break a nail. Now to get ready to firer it up.

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