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New 1950 dodge Truck to me


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10 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

Basically make a spacer that allows the pin to rise up into a hole.  put the c clamp over that all and clamp down...it will push the pin up...if that doesn't go high enough,  a furniture bolt added to the bottom and push the pin up when higher.

Now I'm smelling what your thinking...Makes sense.. THANKS

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28 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

OK... Yes, the center bar should have 4 holes for the screws that attach the inner trim piece to the outer piece.

Yes that's what I meant but it only has holes on the top and bottom of gasket...just wondering if that was normal to drill the 2 center holes ...I believe it's a Carly's or cutalss or something like that ....maybe curtis

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On 10/8/2017 at 5:53 PM, Iowaboy said:

i'm a newbie also, and would like to see a FAQ thread on attaching photos. Would like to post some pics of my B2B. 

 

 

 

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31 minutes ago, 5027 steve said:

How do we know if our engine's have hardened valve seats in them,I read in one book they do and in another its may have or not ...my truck is a late 49xx B1b but actually is a 50 B2B .... thanks

Yes it had them from the factory. It is possible a previous owner didn't replace them with hardened seats at some point in the vehicles service life, but unlikely. 

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7 hours ago, P15-D24 said:

Yes it had them from the factory. It is possible a previous owner didn't replace them with hardened seats at some point in the vehicles service life, but unlikely. 

So what year did they start using hardened seats????? Did Dodge do it from the beginning of the flat head 6 since it was the workhorse of a motor,Damm good engineering at the time if u ask me.... Thanks Steve

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Center nut/cap, with the star washer under it. The one on the side is the fill plug. Remove that one first to be sure it's full of lube.

1. Disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm

2. Turn the steering wheel fully one direction, then back the other direction fully while counting the rotations. Turn back exactly half way to center the steering gear.

3. Remove the lock nut/cap nut over the adjustment screw, and remove the star washer

4. Wiggle the pitman arm back and forth while turning in the adjustment screw until all free play is gone.

5. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock again to be sure there are no tight spots. (you can also push and pull on the pitman arm to move the steering gears and feel for tight spots)

6. Once satisfied with the performance reinstall the star washer, turning the screw in just enough to align the locking groove as needed, and tighten down the lock nut/cap nut.

7. Reattach the drag link.

 

It's also a good idea to have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you watch everything underneath, looking for movement in the drag line ends, tie rod ends, etc. Any play in these areas will need to be addressed too.

 

Watch this video for reference...

 

Edited by Merle Coggins
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2 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Center nut/cap, with the star washer under it. The one on the side is the fill plug. Remove that one first to be sure it's full of lube.

1. Disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm

2. Turn the steering wheel fully one direction, then back the other direction fully while counting the rotations. Turn back exactly half way to center the steering gear.

3. Remove the lock nut/cap nut over the adjustment screw, and remove the star washer

4. Wiggle the pitman arm back and forth while turning in the adjustment screw until all free play is gone.

5. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock again to be sure there are no tight spots. (you can also push and pull on the pitman arm to move the steering gears and feel for tight spots)

6. Once satisfied with the performance reinstall the star washer, turning the screw in just enough to align the locking groove as needed, and tighten down the lock nut/cap nut.

7. Reattach the drag link.

 

It's also a good idea to have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you watch everything underneath, looking for movement in the drag line ends, tie rod ends, etc. Any play in these areas will need to be addressed too.

 

Watch this video for reference...

 

Nice Merle....I know my toe rod ends are shot and have new ones...is it a good idea to put those in first ????  King pins seems to be tight yet with no movement..thanks again STEVE

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That is a pretty good video, seems like a bit over kill to me.

Why do you need to center the wheel before you adjust the box?

Just saying, when you adjust the box, it does not care where the wheel is positioned.

 

I will tell you my approach on adjusting the box, and I have only done it on Fords, never a old dodge.

You loosen the lock nut, then turn the screw 1/4 turn clockwise and tighten the lock nut back down.

Will this be enough? maybe, you just need to drive it and see.

Point is, these gears mesh together and wear over time, if you tighten it to much the gears will no longer mesh right and cause bigger issues.

So you only turn it in a 1/4 turn, then you drive it for at least a few hundred miles and let the gears mesh, then you can attempt to do it again.

But a 1/4 turn, you should notice a huge difference in the slop and may be all you need.

 

This is my experience adjusting Fords from the 60's to the 80's

I adjusted a 1969 Ford 3 times, and the gears fell apart on me in my driveway  (thank God) If you need to go more then a 1/4 turn twice, you may have bigger issues to deal with.

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4 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Center nut/cap, with the star washer under it. The one on the side is the fill plug. Remove that one first to be sure it's full of lube.

1. Disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm

2. Turn the steering wheel fully one direction, then back the other direction fully while counting the rotations. Turn back exactly half way to center the steering gear.

3. Remove the lock nut/cap nut over the adjustment screw, and remove the star washer

4. Wiggle the pitman arm back and forth while turning in the adjustment screw until all free play is gone.

5. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock again to be sure there are no tight spots. (you can also push and pull on the pitman arm to move the steering gears and feel for tight spots)

6. Once satisfied with the performance reinstall the star washer, turning the screw in just enough to align the locking groove as needed, and tighten down the lock nut/cap nut.

7. Reattach the drag link.

 

It's also a good idea to have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you watch everything underneath, looking for movement in the drag line ends, tie rod ends, etc. Any play in these areas will need to be addressed too.

 

Watch this video for reference...

 

Nice Merle....I know my toe rod ends are shot and have new ones...is it a good idea to put those in first ????  King pins seems to be tight yet with no movement..thanks again STEVE

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56 minutes ago, 5027 steve said:

Nice Merle....I know my toe rod ends are shot and have new ones...is it a good idea to put those in first ????  King pins seems to be tight yet with no movement..thanks again STEVE

 

Inspect the whole system and replace / adjust anything that’s loose. If the tie rod ends are sloppy, replace them. If the drag link ends are sloppy, replace it. (DCM has drag links with replaceable ends now) And adjust the play in the steering gear box. You’ll be amazed how well it steers and tracks when it’s all nice and tight. 

 

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

That is a pretty good video, seems like a bit over kill to me.

Why do you need to center the wheel before you adjust the box?

Just saying, when you adjust the box, it does not care where the wheel is positioned.

 

As I understand them, the crown wheel is made to be slightly tighter in the center position. If you over adjust it when it is off center it will likely bind up at the center position. 

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59 minutes ago, 5027 steve said:

So I read on here somewhere that in line tube had stick fuel lines for our trucks ,on there website they just list a 3/4 ton ,54 B2b truck.....would those fuel lines work for our trucks also ????? Thanks

 

‘54, 3/4ton, B2B??? None of that adds up. 

You can make up your own fuel lines with off the shelf brake line. Or get a roll of copper/nickel brake line and some flare nuts and make your own. 

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Thanks ....Ok when I received the truck (in pieces) nothing in the dash was installed...I sent gauges to Kevin here on this site and got them restored...now to install them but no idea if they are mounted with sheet metal screws or bolts.....from what I can see it kinda looks like machine screw threads ...thanks again Steve

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Thanks ....Ok when I received the truck (in pieces) nothing in the dash was installed...I sent gauges to Kevin here on this site and got them restored...now to install them but no idea if they are mounted with sheet metal screws or bolts.....from what I can see it kinda looks like machine screw threads ...thanks again Steve

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