5027 steve Posted January 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 Ok got it out .....whew......I want to do a compression check ....what are normal reading if there is one.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Just wandering do I get banned from this site or did I get black listed or something?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 compression check is pretty generic, ideally you want to see about 100 or more psi for it to run good. These motors sit and the rings get stuck and loose compression, as well as valves not seating or stuck. So you could probably get away with compression as low as 60 psi and it would not start easy but could run, and as it runs, the rings will loosen up and seal and same with the valves. You might only have 3 or 4 cylinders with decent compression, and still get it started, after a couple heat cycles of warming it up and cooling off the compression could come back. Best advice I could give you is pull the plugs and put some lite oil in the cylinders before trying to turn it over. And then turn it over by hand with the plugs out, goal here is to make sure the engine completely turns over without hitting a stuck valve.. Should be 2 revolutions. Then put in some more oil and turn it with the starter and the plugs out. Loosen everything up and get er rotating. Then go ahead and do your compression check, hope you have more then 3 cylinders hitting over 60 psi, then try and start it. A engine with real low compression will start easier if turning faster, use a 12 volt battery or if I was young and dumb tow it around the field in gear to pull start it. Again, after you run it up to temp a few times allowing it to cool off and warm up, then you can test for more accurate compression/condition of engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Wow thanks ...good explanation.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 I started putting atf in the cylinders 2 years ago on my truck when I first got it, last summer I turned it over with the starter and the plugs in it, I could hear the compression improving the more I turned it over. But with the plugs in it was a work out on the old starter . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Ok so water pump and thermostat housing are removed and I noticed the bolts go into the water jacket....what do I use on the threads when I reassemble them.....to seal them in the water jacket...Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonejacklarry Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 47 minutes ago, 5027 steve said: Just wandering do I get banned from this site or did I get black listed or something?????? Patience, grasshopper, patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Lol THANKS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 you need something for sure on the threads, I do not know what others recommend, I usually have a bottle of indian head shelac gasket sealer around and what I might use. But have not yet tore into my engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 compression at cranking speed per the manual is 105 lbs..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 48 minutes ago, Los_Control said: compression check is pretty generic, ideally you want to see about 100 or more psi for it to run good. These motors sit and the rings get stuck and loose compression, as well as valves not seating or stuck. So you could probably get away with compression as low as 60 psi and it would not start easy but could run, and as it runs, the rings will loosen up and seal and same with the valves. You might only have 3 or 4 cylinders with decent compression, and still get it started, after a couple heat cycles of warming it up and cooling off the compression could come back. Best advice I could give you is pull the plugs and put some lite oil in the cylinders before trying to turn it over. And then turn it over by hand with the plugs out, goal here is to make sure the engine completely turns over without hitting a stuck valve.. Should be 2 revolutions. Then put in some more oil and turn it with the starter and the plugs out. Loosen everything up and get er rotating. Then go ahead and do your compression check, hope you have more then 3 cylinders hitting over 60 psi, then try and start it. A engine with real low compression will start easier if turning faster, use a 12 volt battery or if I was young and dumb tow it around the field in gear to pull start it. Again, after you run it up to temp a few times allowing it to cool off and warm up, then you can test for more accurate compression/condition of engine. 36 minutes ago, lonejacklarry said: Patience, grasshopper, patience. Just now, Plymouthy Adams said: compression at cranking speed per the manual is 105 lbs..... Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 55 minutes ago, 5027 steve said: Ok so water pump and thermostat housing are removed and I noticed the bolts go into the water jacket....what do I use on the threads when I reassemble them.....to seal them in the water jacket...Thanks Steve Pipe dope thread sealant works just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 1 minute ago, Merle Coggins said: Pipe dope thread sealant works just fine. Ok thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Ok -so I have the original inside metal trim that goes around the winshield and it was not installed when I got the truck.... #1 - it has what appears to me to have staples around the perimeter. Of the outside edge...what are they for or from..??? #2 They appear to have slots in the bottom I would think that's for the defrost air to get thru????? #3 -I have no screws what so ever and have no idea on size and can't find them in the parts book or shop manual.. #4 -I want to get them powder coated flat or matte black do I remove the staples first???? Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 #1. I don't recall any staples around the perimeter of mine, but I've heard some talk of some material like wind lace between the trim and the body. #2. Yes, the slots along the bottom edge is for defrost vents. There are slots in the dash panel at the bottom edge of the windshield too. And if you have a good heater there may be duct boots screwed to the bottom of the dash under those slots that would connect to the heater with a hose. #3. I don't have an exact size for the screws, but they are like a Trim screw with a small bugle head. A rough guess would say they're about a #8 X 1-1/2". Maybe someone has one that they can measure, or share a picture? I'd have to try to remember to pull one out tonight to contribute that info. #4. I would... As I said, mine didn't have any staples and I haven't put anything back there, but yours must have had something attached to it as a filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 4 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: #1. I don't recall any staples around the perimeter of mine, but I've heard some talk of some material like wind lace between the trim and the body. #2. Yes, the slots along the bottom edge is for defrost vents. There are slots in the dash panel at the bottom edge of the windshield too. And if you have a good heater there may be duct boots screwed to the bottom of the dash under those slots that would connect to the heater with a hose. #3. I don't have an exact size for the screws, but they are like a Trim screw with a small bugle head. A rough guess would say they're about a #8 X 1-1/2". Maybe someone has one that they can measure, or share a picture? I'd have to try to remember to pull one out tonight to contribute that info. #4. I would... As I said, mine didn't have any staples and I haven't put anything back there, but yours must have had something attached to it as a filler. Thanks Merle....yea it's kinda weird seeing metal staples in metal trim..I would have like to see how they did that back in the day....the defrost boots are missing and I need to find them....Thanks again for helping...Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 17 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: #1. I don't recall any staples around the perimeter of mine, but I've heard some talk of some material like wind lace between the trim and the body. #2. Yes, the slots along the bottom edge is for defrost vents. There are slots in the dash panel at the bottom edge of the windshield too. And if you have a good heater there may be duct boots screwed to the bottom of the dash under those slots that would connect to the heater with a hose. #3. I don't have an exact size for the screws, but they are like a Trim screw with a small bugle head. A rough guess would say they're about a #8 X 1-1/2". Maybe someone has one that they can measure, or share a picture? I'd have to try to remember to pull one out tonight to contribute that info. #4. I would... As I said, mine didn't have any staples and I haven't put anything back there, but yours must have had something attached to it as a filler. Not all the years had the material behind the trim. I have about 7 or 8 sets of interior trims and only a few have the staples. I have the screws at home that I've pulled I can post pics and sizes tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Just now, ggdad1951 said: Not all the years had the material behind the trim. I have about 7 or 8 sets of interior trims and only a few have the staples. I have the screws at home that I've pulled I can post pics and sizes tonight. When I look it up in the parts book,i think what I see is what they call "welting"might that be what would have been staples????? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 wish I cared more When I took my trim off and brought it home to prep and paint, same issues it has staples and was just a bit of the welting left. It was only about 1 foot that survived and was very brittle and crumbly and I just threw it away. Now wish I had a sample piece. I just asked a similar question about the staples, and what material would we use to replace the original welting. The staples are real strong steel, so you can bend them straight, pull them out and then actually manually re-install them on new material. (in my sick mind anyways) So I was looking for the material others were using, and ask what they did with the staples? Hot glue is looking pretty good right about now. That is, if I put any welting back in at all. Will test fit without and contemplate it. The screws are stainless steel, 1.5" long and 3/16" round and the head is Phillips and looks flat like a wood screw. There is also 4 rubber pieces, my best guess is they go in the track of the trim, one on each side of the defroster slit, and they block the air from going around the trim and force it out the defrost slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 2 hours ago, Los_Control said: wish I cared more When I took my trim off and brought it home to prep and paint, same issues it has staples and was just a bit of the welting left. It was only about 1 foot that survived and was very brittle and crumbly and I just threw it away. Now wish I had a sample piece. I just asked a similar question about the staples, and what material would we use to replace the original welting. The staples are real strong steel, so you can bend them straight, pull them out and then actually manually re-install them on new material. (in my sick mind anyways) So I was looking for the material others were using, and ask what they did with the staples? Hot glue is looking pretty good right about now. That is, if I put any welting back in at all. Will test fit without and contemplate it. The screws are stainless steel, 1.5" long and 3/16" round and the head is Phillips and looks flat like a wood screw. There is also 4 rubber pieces, my best guess is they go in the track of the trim, one on each side of the defroster slit, and they block the air from going around the trim and force it out the defrost slot. I think you got it mostly right. I've never seen stainless screws tho. They are a somewhat "odd" screw, not too readily available as I DID replace mine with stainless. The ones in the center division were shorter as well. I think "Oval" head is the correct head type w/ Phillips drive. Yes the rubber stops are for the defrost. As for the welting , I think original was a felt type product , liklee similar to lots of the anti-squeak stuff randomly on the trucks. Where I replaced I used a non woven polyester tape product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 I used some fender welting like this. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Universal-Fender-Welting-Body-Gasket,1221.html?sku=75134601&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIve3OjITM2AIVRpV-Ch05YQYkEAQYAyABEgLsO_D_BwE 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Thank you all for the advice!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 10, 2018 Report Share Posted January 10, 2018 9 hours ago, ggdad1951 said: I think you got it mostly right. I've never seen stainless screws tho. They are a somewhat "odd" screw, not too readily available as I DID replace mine with stainless. The ones in the center division were shorter as well. I think "Oval" head is the correct head type w/ Phillips drive. Yes the rubber stops are for the defrost. As for the welting , I think original was a felt type product , liklee similar to lots of the anti-squeak stuff randomly on the trucks. Where I replaced I used a non woven polyester tape product. A lot of the cars use what I believe is called a jackson screw. It's a #8 thread with a #6 head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 10, 2018 Report Share Posted January 10, 2018 This might or might not help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted January 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2018 Thank you Good Reading...Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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