5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 18 hours ago, JaysonK said: I had the same boltswith acorns n the front of my truck....one was busted on the passenger side, tried to find a left hand replacement with no luck so I just swaped them all back to the original bolt. Yea but I have regular rims from a 50 dodge car no holes in rim for the bolts lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 18 hours ago, Merle Coggins said: I've never heard of that happening. Some of the very late '49 B1's started to get the B2 features and were designated with an "X" at the end of the Serial Number. B2 upgrades included column shift, under dash park brake, and 45 Amp generator with 50-0-50 ammeter. Yep we have a x on ours and no brackets or sign of colum shift linkages anywhere....but have underdash parking lever ...lol we have a unique one Merle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Ok I'm not understanding how to remove rear axles for seal replacement ...for what I'm understanding the hub can stay on axle and pull the whole assembly out????? What retains the axle then..Where is the rear axle drive shaft key?????? Head scratcher ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Why does the brake backing plate have to come off I guess....???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 1 hour ago, 5027 steve said: Yep we have a x on ours and no brackets or sign of colum shift linkages anywhere....but have underdash parking lever ...lol we have a unique one Merle... The "X" explains it all. Your truck was likely in the early transition... It got the updated parking brake, but not the column shift upgrade. 49 minutes ago, 5027 steve said: Ok I'm not understanding how to remove rear axles for seal replacement ...for what I'm understanding the hub can stay on axle and pull the whole assembly out????? What retains the axle then..Where is the rear axle drive shaft key?????? Head scratcher ...... Pull the rear brake drums/hubs, then disconnect and remove the brake assemblies, including the backing plates. The backing plate is the bearing retainer for the axle shaft bearings, and holds the outer seal. Once that is all removed you will likely need a puller to remove the axle shafts. The cup for the bearing is pressed into the axle housing. Once you get them out you can clean, replace, or re-lube your bearings. When they go back in the end play / bearing preload can be adjusted with the shims behind the brake backing plates. You need to have both sides in before making any shim adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said: The "X" explains it all. Your truck was likely in the early transition... It got the updated parking brake, but not the column shift upgrade. Pull the rear brake drums/hubs, then disconnect and remove the brake assemblies, including the backing plates. The backing plate is the bearing retainer for the axle shaft bearings, and holds the outer seal. Once that is all removed you will likely need a puller to remove the axle shafts. The cup for the bearing is pressed into the axle housing. Once you get them out you can clean, replace, or re-lube your bearings. When they go back in the end play / bearing preload can be adjusted with the shims behind the brake backing plates. You need to have both sides in before making any shim adjustments. Merle thanks and that's pretty much like our other Mopar axles....I guess 2 questions #1 why pull the hubs off and #2 what is the bolt that is at about 5 o clock behind the backing plate does that need to be removed before we remove axle????? Thanks again Edited October 30, 2017 by 5027 steve spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 The bolt looks like it's threaded into the axle tube.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 9 minutes ago, 5027 steve said: Merle thanks and that's pretty much like our other Mopar axles....I guess 2 questions #1 why pull the hubs off and #2 what is the bolt that is at about 5 o clock behind the backing plate does that need to be removed before we remove axle????? Thanks again Nevermind on #1 because u have to pull the hubs to remove backing plate I get it now looking at it but still confused on the bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 " the bolt " You might be talking about a plug that is removed and a grease fitting installed in that location to grease your rear axle bearing . If you have a shop manual it should show it . On this location you have to be very careful not to over-grease as the pressure can push the grease past the seal and into your brake parts . That helps explain why mopar doesn't just leave a grease fitting in that spot , when the grease fitting is removed , the pressure is released and the new grease stays behind . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Just now, Jerry Roberts said: " the bolt " You might be talking about a plug that is removed and a grease fitting installed in that location to grease your rear axle bearing . If you have a shop manual it should show it . On this location you have to be very careful not to over-grease as the pressure can push the grease past the seal and into your brake parts . That helps explain why mopar doesn't just leave a grease fitting in that spot , when the grease fitting is removed , the pressure is released and the new grease stays behind . So if the bolt is removed there is a zerc fitting behind it ???? I have a manual and all it shows is a bolt on in a angle and doesn't explain it....Or you remove bolt out zerc fitting in and grease then remove zerc and out bolt back in ???? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 " you remove bolt out zerc fitting in and grease then remove zerc and out bolt back in ???? Thanks " You got it ! Don't over grease . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 These photos are from 1938 & 1939 1/2 ton truck manuals . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 5 minutes ago, Jerry Roberts said: These photos are from 1938 & 1939 1/2 ton truck manuals . Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 I've seen some that will argue against using a grease gun for this maintenance, which is called for every 20,000 miles. Instead they claim to work the 1/2 oz. of grease into the hole with your finger. This should eliminate the possibility of blowing out a seal. Here's a cut-a-way image of the rear axle bearing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 25 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: I've seen some that will argue against using a grease gun for this maintenance, which is called for every 20,000 miles. Instead they claim to work the 1/2 oz. of grease into the hole with your finger. This should eliminate the possibility of blowing out a seal. Here's a cut-a-way image of the rear axle bearing. Yes sir have that in my book....I just received my parts list book which will help also ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Just now, 5027 steve said: Yes sir have that in my book....I just received my parts list book which will help also ..... So I take it the hub assembly has a key way in it????? Thats what's in the pic on the top......making more sense now pretty cool engineering on that port to grease the bearing....also now I see there is a inner axle seal and a outer axle seal ......to trap the grease between the two so the rear end fluid doesn't mix and wash out the grease ????? Am I thinking correctly ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Bingo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 15 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: Bingo! Thanks and the hub a rear grease seal of it own. .. But I'm trying to find how to set the axle lash with the shims in the book.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 Anyone on the 23-67-89 part number =bushings for wiper arms??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 31, 2017 Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 (edited) 12 hours ago, 5027 steve said: Thanks and the hub a rear grease seal of it own. .. But I'm trying to find how to set the axle lash with the shims in the book.... Step 11. This must be done with both axles installed as they both rest against a thrust block inside the differential. Doing this adjustment with only one axle in place will cause the thrust block to be off center. Edited October 31, 2017 by Merle Coggins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 7 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: Step 11. This must be done with both axles installed as they both rest against a thrust block inside the differential. Doing this adjustment with only one axle in place will cause the thrust block to be off center. Found this last night about 11pm lol thanks Merle .... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted October 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 wow first time i logged on at home computer things look a lot different.....better than smart phone...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 31, 2017 Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 Yes, the mobile version has some limitations. I prefer to use my computer or iPad when available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaysonK Posted October 31, 2017 Report Share Posted October 31, 2017 On 10/30/2017 at 10:37 AM, 5027 steve said: Yea but I have regular rims from a 50 dodge car no holes in rim for the bolts lol I see the issue now...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5027 steve Posted November 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 6 hours ago, JaysonK said: I see the issue now...lol Yea can u believe that someone actually would even move a vehicle....the rims were 3/4 of a inch off the brake drum tightened to the 1/4 bolts.......Just nuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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