Jump to content

1950 Spitfire problems


Clarksville Windsor

Recommended Posts

First post on P15-d24....and just signed on to this website.  I have a couple of quick questions since I am new to the 1950 era cars. 1st, how could my spitfire's 3 cylinders go bad? I was driving the car and was running great. It started coughing and acting up a little, then within 5 minutes, the car could barely run. Mechanic said engine needs to be replaced. Not sure if mechanic knows much on these old cars. So, how did he car go from running like a top, to 3 cylinders that went bad (horrible compression from what mechanic said)?  If I need to have it rebuilt, what would be the general costs to have an engine like that be overhauled?  I really like the car and I enjoy driving it, I just want it fixed....please help.  Also, I am from Clarksville Michigan, not Clarksville Tennessee.59d59eb560c48_Chrysler1.jpg.440ab14f5d7381f82c8c7bc06ebb807d.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it was running fine smooth... no knocking, good 45lbs oil pressure............./Maybe stuck valves... compression check required.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The valves might have stuck open. Zero (0-10 LBS) compression= very likely stuck valves.

Especially if the car sat or has been driven little.

Pull the tappet covers to see..... or the head.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it were me,I think I would sign up for a night basic auto mechanic course at a local community college.

I would definitely be looking for a new mechanic. Just telling you the compression in 3 cylinders is bad without telling you the numbers and the possible reasons tells me he didn't really want to fool with it and was trying to scare you away by telling you the engine needs to be rebuilt.

The first thing you need to do is go to Amazon or Ebay and buy a Motors Automobile Repair Manual that covers 1950 cars,and go to the basic repairs section to learn how to do compression checks and to check and repair ignitions. They not only tell you how to do things like this in plain language you can understand,they also provide a lot of really clear photos to show you and tell you the tools you need to do the work if they are specialized tools. Best money you will ever spend on your car.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2055119.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H1.Xmotors+auto+repair+manual+1950.TRS0&_nkw=motors+auto+repair+manual+1950&_sacat=0

https://www.amazon.com/MoToRs-Repair-Manual-Harold-Blanchard/dp/B000P1TW4E

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Knuckle said find another mechanic or two purely to get a 2nd or more detailed opinion, could be anything, even just a head gasket........also suggest getting a shop manual, a paper one and read it cover to cover( just did a quick search for 1950 Chrysler Shop manual on US ebay and theres about 6-10 paper copies available) .........these are not difficult cars to keep going just nowadays they are not common so you have to be a bit more persistent to get the correct info and result...........BTW Welcome to the forum from Downunder, it looks like a nice car............regards, Andy Douglas    

Edited by Andydodge
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clarksville, you are in the right place for a accurate answer for any problem you have with your Chrysler.  Good looking one ! Sounds like the head gasket to me, but  Dodgeb4ya. Is correct, valves could be sticking open. Especially if car has not run in awhile. Good advice on getting the Motors and a shop manual. I think your car is in good hands, keep us posted with your progress.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with DodgeB4Ya.  Sticky valves.  Old fuel and lack of running  can make for sticky valves.   Try pouring some light oil, like ATF down the carb while the engine is running.   Let it stall or shut it off and then let it sit for awhile.  Removing the tappet covers will reveal which valves are not returning to the closed position but that may not be necessary with some top lube.  Be prepared for smoke !

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In his original post he said.

"I was driving the car and it was running great. It started coughing and acting up a little, then within 5 minutes, the car could barely run. "

Would valves suddenly stick after they were moving freely ?  I've never seen that.....I'm sticking with a blown head gasket but I will say that a blown gasket usually involves 2 pistons....not 3.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am so glad that I joined this website to hear from you guys. I really appreciate the responses that all of you have given. I hope that from these responses I can see that my car engine wouldn't have to be totally rebuilt after digging into it. So let's hope that's the case!

Just out of curiosity what an air leak in the intake manifold be a possibility? Or some type of vacuum leak?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Captden29, would there be any noticeable things when pulling the head off? In other words what would I be looking for? Also how will I know if the valves move freely? Is that something that I can push with my fingers? Keep in mind I've never opened up an engine before. I am mechanically inclined and I can catch on, but a little guidance always helps. Thanks for your input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Clarksville Windsor said:

I am so glad that I joined this website to hear from you guys. I really appreciate the responses that all of you have given. I hope that from these responses I can see that my car engine wouldn't have to be totally rebuilt after digging into it. So let's hope that's the case!

Just out of curiosity what an air leak in the intake manifold be a possibility? Or some type of vacuum leak?

It's been my experience both times I had this problem is that when you have an intake leak you can hear it whistle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Clarksville Windsor said:

Captden29, would there be any noticeable things when pulling the head off? In other words what would I be looking for? Also how will I know if the valves move freely? Is that something that I can push with my fingers? Keep in mind I've never opened up an engine before. I am mechanically inclined and I can catch on, but a little guidance always helps. Thanks for your input.

After you pull the head the engine will have zero compression,and you can easily turn it over using the fan while watching to see the valves open and close. Any that remain open or don't close all the way are obviously stuck. Any that open but don't close all the way are probably bent. Since it ran great when you first started driving it,this seems unlikely to me.

My money is still on ignition/coil and/or gasoline problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The intake manifold gasket on my 52 Plymouth started to leak and the only symptom was a real reluctance to Idle.  This affected all the cylinders, not just a few. I would buy a compression gauge and check the engine myself. If there is a great variation in compression from cylinder to cylinder then you can further trouble shoot. You also will find out which ones may be bad, I.E. three in a row or every other one or?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

head gasket will have breaks, pieces missing, usually between cylinders. if you had a new one, or picture of a new one you will see where there is damage. did it blow white smoke when it started running bad? that would be coolant sucked into the engine at a point where the head gasket blew. keep us posted when you look into this further and more info can be given. local car club guys are always willing to lend a hand. nice looking car.  captden

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  May I suggest that you first check for ignition/fuel delivery problems

before you pull the head. Compression check would be an excellent

idea before head removal too. That's a lot of work if it's something

you may not have to do.  Please don't be offended but it kinda sounds

like your mechanic was trying to blow you off.

  Nice looking car you have. Good luck with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, here is an update to the 3 cylinders not working. Remember the first part of the problem? Well, it happened to be that the local mechanic didn't know what he was talking about. Everything that he said it probably was, was not. So, I looked online to see if I could find a mechanic that new about old cars and regularly works on old cars. Thankfully, I found a guy (Steve's Antique Auto Repair) about 30 minutes away (in Grand Rapids Mi) from where I live. He checked it out the car the next morning and found only one cylinder didn't have compression. He took the head off and found cylinder 1 had a broken valve spring. He put a new spring in and a new valve (it wasn't bent thankfully). He put a new head and manifold gasket on. The shop did a great job and runs great!  

On ‎10‎/‎5‎/‎2017 at 3:34 PM, Don Coatney said:

This may or may not help.

 

fromthebook.jpg

Thanks Don Coatney to post this page. I really should get some of these publications for the late 40's and early 50's era automobiles. I know that I would definitely use them...knowledge is the best tool

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boy ...that's some lying mechanic!

Glad the issue wasn't too $$$ or complicated. 

Compression tests are a must with a very rough running engine:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yet another example of car owners being taken advantage of. That’s terrible. I hate hearing about these stories. 

I feel very strongly that to own these  old cars, you really need to be pretty handy with the tools. Doing your own troubleshooting. Your own repais wherever possible. I hate seeing folks get taken for granted by bad mechanics, or parts prices at sky high prices. I shake my head. We’ve pulled shop classes from all our highschools. Sad. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Clarksville Windsor said:

Well, here is an update to the 3 cylinders not working. Remember the first part of the problem? Well, it happened to be that the local mechanic didn't know what he was talking about. Everything that he said it probably was, was not. So, I looked online to see if I could find a mechanic that new about old cars and regularly works on old cars. Thankfully, I found a guy (Steve's Antique Auto Repair) about 30 minutes away (in Grand Rapids Mi) from where I live. He checked it out the car the next morning and found only one cylinder didn't have compression. He took the head off and found cylinder 1 had a broken valve spring. He put a new spring in and a new valve (it wasn't bent thankfully). He put a new head and manifold gasket on. The shop did a great job and runs great!  

Thanks Don Coatney to post this page. I really should get some of these publications for the late 40's and early 50's era automobiles. I know that I would definitely use them...knowledge is the best tool

 

Good for you! Now,don't forget to tell locals you meet that have old cars about Steve''s Auto Repair,and the excellent work he did for you. Too many people keep too quiet about "their" mechanics like it is a secret that needs to be guarded. The opposite is true.  These people are like any other businessmen. To stay in business they need customers. To keep the old car hobby going with new generations off old car buffs that have no experience or knowledge of old car mechanicals,we need people like Steve. Win/win for everyone.

It won't hurt your future dealings with Steve if you tell them to make sure they tell him that "Bubba/whatever from Clarksville sent me here.",either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use