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1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread


kridgleyud

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On 9/22/2017 at 8:42 AM, knuckleharley said:

Seems like the smart move to make to me. You won't notice any power difference when driving.

Not sure I understand this comment.  Why wouldn't all those upgrade mods make a difference?

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Just now, kridgleyud said:

I believe this was meant to mean grabbing the 218 vs making a 230 is no real difference. 

Oh yea, think understand.  By the way, I like the Dodge.  Never saw the dash on one of these before.  Wonder if the paint on the dash is original.  Or, if it had woodgraining.  Looks like the door trim has been re-painted at some time.

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2 hours ago, 46Ply said:

Not sure I understand this comment.  Why wouldn't all those upgrade mods make a difference?

You won't notice any real power difference between a 218 and a 230 when driving normally. The modifications mean nothing unless you are accelerating or driving at higher than normal speeds. They just look cool,and maybe help your gas mileage a little because the engine is more effecient.

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2 hours ago, 46Ply said:

Oh yea, think understand.  By the way, I like the Dodge.  Never saw the dash on one of these before.  Wonder if the paint on the dash is original.  Or, if it had woodgraining.  Looks like the door trim has been re-painted at some time.

The dash is definitely repainted at some time.  The original color of the car was black.  If you look closer at the dash, it has a texture on it ... not sure if this is from age/deterioration/poor coating or original yet as I'm focused on the front end right now.

However, I plan to woodgrain the dash and interior trim when I get that far.

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4 hours ago, 46Ply said:

Oh yea, think understand.  By the way, I like the Dodge.  Never saw the dash on one of these before.  Wonder if the paint on the dash is original.  Or, if it had woodgraining.  Looks like the door trim has been re-painted at some time.

As far as I know all 1940 Dodge cars had woodgrained dash and window surrounds with the exception of the convertible which was painted body colour. This photo shows an 'original' '40 dash. Note that the woodgrain is a light colour.

 

 

40_dodge_blue_4.jpg

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Just a quick update on the front end.  Progress is slow ... there was so much to clean.  But, I finally got it all cleaned up and painted.  The the parts I took off/replacements waiting to go on are all painted too.  Scarebird conversion is here as well as the new ECI master and pedal bracket.

I'll keep everyone posted, with pics of course, of the re-assembly and disk brakes.

 

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Another quick bit of progress.  Had a package waiting for me yesterday ... got the clutch parts back from Tennessee Clutch and Supply.  I cannot say enough about this guy.  He was extremely helpful over the phone and I just had to send off the old parts, he called me a couple days later and it was on the way back.  Installed the bearing, disc and pressure plate last night, looks great.

Finished that up and fiddled with the steering knuckles ... having trouble getting the old kingpin bushings out - and knowing that the new ones need to be honed, I'll bring it into the shop.

ECI and dodge pu shock brackets are due today.

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Even old and third-hand,these old cars were a pleasure to drive,but wait until you put it back together to drive with everything "as new or better". You are going to be pleasantly shocked.

Edited by knuckleharley
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40Phil.........that pale grey woodgrain reminded me that my Oz 1940 Dodge dash was indeed that shade when I bought it in 1971, I painted it the body colour as I think I thought it had faded over time, I had never seen a pale grey or I suppose a more "driftwood" shade of woodgrain............but by the same token I was only 17..........lol........andyd 

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I agree andyd. That isn't my car but one that has been seen around the internet for the past 10 or so years. I have a dark brown woodgrain on my '40 that a friend did for me many years ago. Under my dash chrome trim it looked like more of a light brown than grey. I think that whatever goes with your interior will look good.

Phil

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Hey everyone.  Another brief update. If i keep updating, I won't let this stall again!

Finished the upper and lower control arms and got them mounted. King pins then the steering knuckles and springs are next ... then it will have everything I  place to reconnect steering arms and mount the pickup style shock mounts. 

20171026_215607.jpg

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AAAHHH.......shiney, clean, no crud..........must be a show car!!...........lol.........nah, looking good from downunder........lol..........andyd

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On 2017-09-27 at 2:49 AM, Ricky Luke said:

I reckon it’s all in the doghouse. The body seems to be the same as the Plymouth /Dodges. It’s the 25” block.

Rick

 

In North America the 1940 Plymouth and Dodge D15/D16 was on a 117" wheelbase with the D14/D17 Dodge on a 119½" wheelbase and the 6 cylinder DeSoto and Chrysler on 122½".   Plymouth and Dodge shared the same body while the DeSoto/Chrysler body was the Plymouth body with the rear axle moved back 3".  

The DeSoto/Chrysler 4 door sedans had a 3" longer rear quarter window than the Plymouth and Dodge and the coupes had the extension in the trunk of the body.

Did the Australian 1940 Chrysler body have a similar extension in the sedans?  

 

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My 1940 Oz Dodge has the following measurements..........these are taken from the inside edge of the window openings.................front door window opening @ widest point 26 & 9/16th" or 675mm, rear door window opening @ widest point 24 & 3/4" or 630mm and rear 1/4 vent window opening at widest point 20 &1/4" or 515mm.............note that whilst the rear 1/4 vent on my car no longer opens as I had it sealed up 40 odd yrs ago I measured from the edges of the rubber seal, the widest point..........also the centre of my rear axle, albeit non original but sitting on the original rear springs locating bolt is 2" forward of the rearmost rubber edge of the rear 1/4 window......................

...............I won't bother with measuring the rear fender opening and its relationship to the body shell as I have widened the rear fenders 2" either side which by virtue of this widening has moved the actual opening away from stock so will give an incorrect figure.............make sense?..........lol...........andyd   

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On 10/29/2017 at 1:55 AM, Andydodge said:

AAAHHH.......shiney, clean, no crud..........must be a show car!!...........lol.........nah, looking good from downunder........lol..........andyd

No show car per-say .... but will be as clean as I can get it as it goes back together.  if you start from clean, it'e easier to keep clean!  She'll be driven as she should.  To shows of course, but also to work and to just get coffee sometimes.

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On 9/22/2017 at 8:35 AM, kridgleyud said:

My plan was to rebuild the 218 into a 230, with all the nice pep parts ... headers, dual carb intake, hotter cam, etc.   So I priced all this, plus the machine work my motor would need during this rebuild, and then this fell into my lap ... a fellow selling a rebuilt 218 from a 53 truck.  40 over on the pistons, hotter cam, langdons headers, offenhauser intake, new water and oil pumps, converted distributor from slant 6 with pertronix ignitor, mopar internally regulated alternator ... nice motor, for the price of buying the parts to rebuild mine.  

I'll use this with my stock 3-speed.

 

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I didn't realize that these dual headers would interfere with the original fuel pump. 

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Another bite out of the elephant if you will.  Here's where I ended last night .... springs and a arms back on and installed the new caliper mounts, hubs and loose fit the steering.

I think I'm going to clear coat the hubs to help keep them beautiful ... this weekend I plan to mount the shock mounts to the frame and set the motor in to start getting her ready to breath life.

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1 hour ago, kridgleyud said:

Another bite out of the elephant if you will.  Here's where I ended last night .... springs and a arms back on and installed the new caliper mounts, hubs and loose fit the steering.

I think I'm going to clear coat the hubs to help keep them beautiful ... this weekend I plan to mount the shock mounts to the frame and set the motor in to start getting her ready to breath life.

Will the clear coat stand up to the heating and cooling cycle?

 

 

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