Jump to content

1937 Pickup, Oil Filter? Many other questions, all original, family owned since new


esteban

Recommended Posts

 

Hello everyone!

I feel very fortunate to have a 1937 Dodge Pickup that my great, great grandfather purchased brand new.  It's been in the family since day one and it's all original.  My grandpa's best recollection is that it was last truly "driven" in the 90's.  It's been parked at a property of ours since and started periodically.  It honestly fires right up and will certainly drive but has no brakes so when I move it I just use the parking brake.  Clearly brakes are most important but beyond that I'm trying to give it a little "life".

No clue the last time the oil was changed, probably 25 years ago, so I'll do that but I can't for the life of me figure out where or even IF there is an oil filter.  I've tried to look at images and forums but from what I see, I simply don't have one?

Next up would be it smoking, when it's first fired up or really anytime you give it a fair amount of gas it smokes like hell, part of me says this is a combination of very old gas which almost surely doesn't have any lead in it, likely 25-40 year old plugs, an oil bath air filter (had no idea those existed!), super old oil that's likely worthless and more.  What I hope is it's not terrible valve stem seals, oil rings etc.

So, I'm planning to order all new wheel cylinders, a master cylinder (I figure it's cheap insurance vs one that's been bone dry for who knows how long), all new hoses, oil, considering water pump but not sure it needs one, oil pan gasket, spark plugs, rear axle seals (leaked on the passenger side when drums were removed).

Any other ideas, suggestions etc?  It seems the transmission leaks as well, I'll address all that once I get a better understanding on where things sit.  Simply trying to see how close to road worthy she is for now, not that I'll be putting many miles on it, just don't want to break it if I don't have to.  None of the tires match and all are bias ply and I must assume with a tube.  What's the best route there?  My guess is the wheels aren't really designed for a modern tubeless/radial tire?  Shocks will be done amongst other things.  I guess I'm mostly just looking to see if I end up needing to tear out the motor/trans and rebuild before I spend much time on the other parts.  But, I'd love all of your input!

Currently the plan is to order all of the parts from dcmclassics.com - Good or bad idea?  I'm 100% open to suggestions

 

Here's a couple videos of her running.  Many months between starts (shame on me I know)

294325FE-43B7-4E4B-B43C-0ECD94685B6B.JPG.a7d3d891bf072bef4aaa008a18903859.JPG59c1a449041fd_FullSizeRender2.jpg.f148ab10bbd66d82334e59a7f8e6f152.jpg59c1a4469f363_FullSizeRender3.jpg.4ca7875a68a37abb9b5423d526c28f29.jpgIMG_1539.JPG.27e6fb20569b0b566db85317f959af50.JPG

 

Edited by esteban
Added videos
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice truck you have there! Many folks could only wish to start with such a nice truck.

As for the engine issues, first thing I would do is drain the fuel system and install fresh fuel and a  new filter. Next clean the oil bath air cleaner and add some new oil. Who knows how much debris might be in there! Now for the oil  and filter... look for a canister behind the distributor or maybe somewhere else in the engine bay with two lines going to it. That will be the filter if it has one. If it does, it will require a drop in filter element. However, it might not have one either. Either way, change the oil and coolant and let her run for a while. After years of sitting and only occasional starting, the rings could be sticky and causing the smoke. Replace the  sparkplugs and check the point gap. After letting her run for a while the rings might loosen up and the smoking might go away. If not, a compression test could help find the weak cylinder causing the smoke.

good luck and keep us posted!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome truck, and more awesome that it has family history. 

The smoke may clear up once you can get everything up to operating temp. Change he oil, get some fresh gas into it, make sure it has coolant/water, and let it run to full operating temp, and then run some more to get the exhaust system heated up. Most of the smoke is likely years of condensation, dust, rust, and etc burning off. 

On your oil filter... it was quite common back then to not have a filter. They were often dealer installed options. If you keep your eyes open you can find them at swap meets or on eBay. Just be sure you can identify the brand to know which filter element to use. My truck didn't have one when I got it. I found one on eBay. After passing on a few that went for more $$ than I wanted to spend I found one at a bargain price and bought it. They're out there. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks to both of you!

You're describing exactly what I thought it was, and it certainly doesn't have one.  No worries, I'll keep an eye out but honestly if it's made it 80 years without one, I'm sure it'll be just fine for the VERY occasional driving it'll see.  My true goal here is just to get it in a condition that my grandpa can take my grandma out on a date in it, it was the first vehicle he ever drove and now that he's into his 70's this isn't the project he wants to take on.  I might take it to Hot August Nights here in Reno next year if all goes well, but I just want it to be in running condition.  The interior is in what I'd consider to be great shape.  The truck has no major rust, just a nice patina to it, lots of history as it was the truck that plowed the roads of Cedarville, CA for many years while my great grandpa owned the service center there.  I'm excited to get it back on the road!

A couple short videos were added as well.  She purrs like a kitten in my eyes!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, 59bisquik said:

Very nice truck you have there! Many folks could only wish to start with such a nice truck.

As for the engine issues, first thing I would do is drain the fuel system and install fresh fuel and a  new filter. Next clean the oil bath air cleaner and add some new oil. Who knows how much debris might be in there! Now for the oil  and filter... look for a canister behind the distributor or maybe somewhere else in the engine bay with two lines going to it. That will be the filter if it has one. If it does, it will require a drop in filter element. However, it might not have one either. Either way, change the oil and coolant and let her run for a while. After years of sitting and only occasional starting, the rings could be sticky and causing the smoke. Replace the  sparkplugs and check the point gap. After letting her run for a while the rings might loosen up and the smoking might go away. If not, a compression test could help find the weak cylinder causing the smoke.

good luck and keep us posted!

 

1 hour ago, Merle Coggins said:

Awesome truck, and more awesome that it has family history. 

The smoke may clear up once you can get everything up to operating temp. Change he oil, get some fresh gas into it, make sure it has coolant/water, and let it run to full operating temp, and then run some more to get the exhaust system heated up. Most of the smoke is likely years of condensation, dust, rust, and etc burning off. 

On your oil filter... it was quite common back then to not have a filter. They were often dealer installed options. If you keep your eyes open you can find them at swap meets or on eBay. Just be sure you can identify the brand to know which filter element to use. My truck didn't have one when I got it. I found one on eBay. After passing on a few that went for more $$ than I wanted to spend I found one at a bargain price and bought it. They're out there. 

Either of you have any suggestions on the best places both quality/price for parts?  The "best" I've come across is again dcmclassics.com - But having zero experience with them, nor any other online retailer for such old parts I'm not sure where to go?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are a good vender. Also look at Roberts robertsmotorparts.com and Bernbaum oldmoparts.com. There's also Fetchup oldpickupparts.com Haven't got anything from them, but it looks like they have several items. 

Also, don't forget your local Napa, or other parts stores for many mechanical parts. Or Rock Auto, if you want to shop online. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

They are a good vender. Also look at Roberts robertsmotorparts.com and Bernbaum oldmoparts.com. There's also Fetchup oldpickupparts.com Haven't got anything from them, but it looks like they have several items. 

Also, don't forget your local Napa, or other parts stores for many mechanical parts. Or Rock Auto, if you want to shop online. 

Thanks!  Would you say this pricing is reasonable??

59c1c131be288_ScreenShot2017-09-19at6_15_02PM.png.995620801b94d32d6420389ca803e3b7.png

 

Edited by esteban
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check vintage power wagon for parts also.  My lubrication chart specifies and oil change interval  of 2000 to 2500 miles for vehicles without oil filter during normal operating conditions. If you are not yet contemplating rebuilding the engine it is important that you stay with single SAE 30 non detergent oil.  This works well for the non filtered setup.  As the oil picks up contaminants while working, it also will let them settle into the sump when shut down.  Detergent oils want to loosen and pick up stuff to transport it to the filter.  So stick with the single weight non detergent and change it once a year until you decide to whether the engine needs a rebuild. You can also add some rislone additive to help loosen up ant rings and or valves that might be sticking.  As for gas, these engines do not require lead additive as they came with hardened exhaust valve seats. Reminder that this is a positive ground vehicle, and being 6 volts wants good current flow (good thick primary cables 0 gauge if you can find them, and good clean tight connections especially grounds.

The oiloil bath air cleaners were state of the art back then.  They depend on Newton's Laws to work.  The air does not actually pass through the oil.  Air entering the engine is accelerated then turned 180 degrees within the housing.  The particles suspended in the air flow can not make the turn.  Falling out of the airflow, they then get trapped and held in the oil.  Messey but effective.

That truck certainly has a lot of character, and carries it proudly.  If mine , I would get it up and running, stopping securely, puts some new tires on and drive the heck out of it between oil changes.

Good luck and enjoy.  The side mount spare makes the truck special.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, B1B Keven said:

Awesome truck and story. Are you still in Cedarville?

Our family still has the house in Cedarville, I visit every 3-6 months but I've never lived there.  There is a ton of family history there though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, greg g said:

Check vintage power wagon for parts also.  My lubrication chart specifies and oil change interval  of 2000 to 2500 miles for vehicles without oil filter during normal operating conditions. If you are not yet contemplating rebuilding the engine it is important that you stay with single SAE 30 non detergent oil.  This works well for the non filtered setup.  As the oil picks up contaminants while working, it also will let them settle into the sump when shut down.  Detergent oils want to loosen and pick up stuff to transport it to the filter.  So stick with the single weight non detergent and change it once a year until you decide to whether the engine needs a rebuild. You can also add some rislone additive to help loosen up ant rings and or valves that might be sticking.  As for gas, these engines do not require lead additive as they came with hardened exhaust valve seats. Reminder that this is a positive ground vehicle, and being 6 volts wants good current flow (good thick primary cables 0 gauge if you can find them, and good clean tight connections especially grounds.

The oiloil bath air cleaners were state of the art back then.  They depend on Newton's Laws to work.  The air does not actually pass through the oil.  Air entering the engine is accelerated then turned 180 degrees within the housing.  The particles suspended in the air flow can not make the turn.  Falling out of the airflow, they then get trapped and held in the oil.  Messey but effective.

That truck certainly has a lot of character, and carries it proudly.  If mine , I would get it up and running, stopping securely, puts some new tires on and drive the heck out of it between oil changes.

Good luck and enjoy.  The side mount spare makes the truck special.

Thank you very much!  Any recommendations on the oil?  The site I've quoted sells "Brad Penn 30 weight with zinc".  I live just miles from a Summit Racing so I'm sure there would be more options there as well.

I've got a bit of wiring I'll be replacing, I'm not sure if it got hot or just fell apart over time but there's a bit of exposed wiring near the steering shaft in the engine bay.  It's certainly a positive ground 6 volt which is crazy to a 31 year old like me.  I started my days on 125cc 2 strokes when I was 12 years old, eventually at 18-20 I was building 400hp 2.0L Honda engines swapped from CRV's into an older CRX and fabricating the entire setup by hand, soldering new chips into the engine computer and writing the software to tune them etc.  More recently my toys have evolved into 700+hp CTS-V's and the like.  Going back to something so basic is almost surreal, its so basic but yet hard to find things for.  Where I'm used to trying to eliminate EPA required regulations and freeing up airflow I'm now worried about properly oiling an air filter haha!

I kid you not, I've had the air filter off the motor for probably 2 months in my garage and this afternoon I knocked it over and heard liquid hitting the garage floor, I couldn't figure out what the heck it was and when it was oil pouring out my initial thought was the intake valve seals were beyond shot and I was somehow pumping oil up into the filter.  Then I realized it was some of the cleanest 25 year old engine oil I had ever seen and thus I searched it.

I don't have any issue with the 6v setup, that being said I do wonder (I can obviously search it) if all 6v things will work with it, I assume being DC they will need to be positive ground specific.  I'd assume reversing DC wouldn't work out, AC is a different story.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have heard of folks using Brad Penn to good to good result. Most of the electrical stuff is polarity dumb, and will work either way.  Ignition points don't like it much, and some times coils break down under load or will a bit hotter than usual.  Even the gas gauges don't seem to care as they run on varying resistance.  Some times the only way to tell is the amp gauge shows a positive needle movement when the key is switched on.

To assure good electrical component performance run a ground from the fire wall to the frame or engine, and one from the bed to frame for good rear lights.

As for replacing wires, don't use 16 or 18 gauge like you would for 12v. Rule of thumb for6v  10 gauge for heavy loads, blowers, head lights etc, 12 gauge for medium loads, running lights, signals powering relays, 14 gauge for light stuff, dash lights dome light etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's already been said, but that is a really nice truck!!

Another good source for parts that I didn't see listed is vintagepowerwagons  https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com

Obviously their main focus is power wagons, but they have lots of parts for us civilians, too. 

If that were my truck I would drop the oil pan and clean everything out before I ran it too much. There is almost certainly a layer of crud at the bottom that you don't want making its way back into your system. It's kind of a messy job, but an oil pan gasket is very cheap and you'll know for sure your engine is as clean as possible for the start of the next 80 years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, esteban said:

Our family still has the house in Cedarville, I visit every 3-6 months but I've never lived there.  There is a ton of family history there though!

I worked with a guy in Sacramento that was from Cedarville. His last name is Hackney. I've even been to the Modoc District fair and watched a race at the speedway.

I used to live in Susanville and Lakeview also. Small world.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, motterso said:

It's already been said, but that is a really nice truck!!

Another good source for parts that I didn't see listed is vintagepowerwagons  https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com

Obviously their main focus is power wagons, but they have lots of parts for us civilians, too. 

If that were my truck I would drop the oil pan and clean everything out before I ran it too much. There is almost certainly a layer of crud at the bottom that you don't want making its way back into your system. It's kind of a messy job, but an oil pan gasket is very cheap and you'll know for sure your engine is as clean as possible for the start of the next 80 years.

and if you do that be careful with the ooze. lots of lead in it from the leaded gas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We all should be so lucky to have such a family treasure. It sounds as if you have the right attitude for this, keeping it as original as possible and fixing it up for your grandparents. More pictures are always welcome and please don't hesitate to ask anything as there is lots of knowledge on this site willing to help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone! I'm ordering the parts today, hopefully they'll arrive soon and I can at least get her out on the road for a quick spin.  I'll certainly remove the oil pan and do the gasket/clean out of the internal portion.

Any idea on tires?  I'm all for keeping this thing original but I'm not sure which way to go there.  I doubt it'll ever see speeds high enough to care about radial vs bias ply, but whichever will be most cost effective/original looking is what I'm after

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, motterso said:

Radials are way better, but don't be tempted to get super wide ones. Assuming your rims are 15", you might try 215 75 R15's.

My rims are actually 16's, I took a quick look at one tire and it's a 6.5-16, I'm sure there is a conversion for the right size.  I'm just more concerned with mounting a radial tire on that wheel as it clearly wasn't really designed for the bead of the newer tires (as I read).  Here's a picture of the spare, all tires are equally old but just mismatched.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Again - great looking truck. I think 215 85 r16's would work well for you. There is no issue with the bead, but you probably want to clean them up and paint them (on the inside, I would not mess with the look of the visible part of the wheels) if there is any rust. That way the new tubeless tires will not have any issue sealing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use