Jj1981 Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Anyone have the numbers I need for rotors bearing sizes axle widths for a 1950 b2b. I have finally got it going forward and reverse but now I need it to stop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 Check with olddaddy for one of his swap kits. It will be easier than starting from scratch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motterso Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 Yes, contact Charlie at olddaddy@rustyhope.com He has a great kit with detailed instructions and parts list. You will also want to figure out a way to put a dual chamber master cylinder in. I did it 2 different ways on 2 different trucks. On the firewall is pretty easy and works well, but is obvious and ugly. Better is to put it under the cab with a bracket: You can use the original pedal if you add a piece. For more pictures see my blog: http://dogwalkfinds.blogspot.com/2017/02/projects-update-02242017.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
52 work truck Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 What master cylinder are you using? Do you sell the bracket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauls_Plymouth Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 I just used Scarebird (sales@scarebird.com) for my 51 Plymouth. They make several kits, cars & trucks. Good quality parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motterso Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 I modified the bracket from one of these kits: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-1948-Chevy-Car-Disc-Drum-Power-Brake-Booster-Frame-Mount-Pedal-Assembly-Kit-/141495487626 I had to make a plate to go on my pedal that extends down a little to actuate the cylinder the opposite way. The master cylinder is the one from the kit which is the "corvette style" 1" bore. The front and rear reservoirs are the same size. These seem pretty common, the number on my box was GH3511. The 7" booster is as big as you can go with the space available. Those residual pressure valves seem to work pretty well, too.. The only part of the kit I didn't use (besides the pedal and some chunks of the bracket) was the proportioning valve. I did put in a proportioning valve in the rear circuit (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Purple-Adjustable-Brake-Proportioning-Valve,23498.html), but the one that comes in the kit tends to leak, is hard to get in there and is not adjustable. I used a junction block like this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/972054ERL-Earls-Performance-3-8-24-Inverted-Flare-On-Branch-Tee-Brake-Adapter-/231932545684?epid=1711820529&hash=item360041ca94:g:uKoAAOSw5HJXKRtY&vxp=mtr ) to tie the front brakes together . One last thing to keep in mind is you'll need to change how your switch works. I used one of these: https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/19787/Brake_Light_Switch.html Which are sold by lots of places, but quality is not always the best. but you could also do it like this https://www.performanceonline.com/Brake-Light-Switch-with-Fitting/ and not change your wiring (much). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jj1981 Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 So I've been using bronco 2 wheels that fit perfectly. Doing a little research the outer bearingss are the same as my b2b the inner bearings are.06 smaller than my b2b I'm wondering if it is possible to use this setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarriorDog Posted September 18, 2017 Report Share Posted September 18, 2017 12 hours ago, motterso said: I modified the bracket from one of these kits: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-1948-Chevy-Car-Disc-Drum-Power-Brake-Booster-Frame-Mount-Pedal-Assembly-Kit-/141495487626 I had to make a plate to go on my pedal that extends down a little to actuate the cylinder the opposite way. The master cylinder is the one from the kit which is the "corvette style" 1" bore. The front and rear reservoirs are the same size. These seem pretty common, the number on my box was GH3511. The 7" booster is as big as you can go with the space available. Those residual pressure valves seem to work pretty well, too.. The only part of the kit I didn't use (besides the pedal and some chunks of the bracket) was the proportioning valve. I did put in a proportioning valve in the rear circuit (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Purple-Adjustable-Brake-Proportioning-Valve,23498.html), but the one that comes in the kit tends to leak, is hard to get in there and is not adjustable. I used a junction block like this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/972054ERL-Earls-Performance-3-8-24-Inverted-Flare-On-Branch-Tee-Brake-Adapter-/231932545684?epid=1711820529&hash=item360041ca94:g:uKoAAOSw5HJXKRtY&vxp=mtr ) to tie the front brakes together . One last thing to keep in mind is you'll need to change how your switch works. I used one of these: https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/19787/Brake_Light_Switch.html Which are sold by lots of places, but quality is not always the best. but you could also do it like this https://www.performanceonline.com/Brake-Light-Switch-with-Fitting/ and not change your wiring (much). Interesting - Good stuff - Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.