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Oil pan plug


pflaming

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I did not plug the oil return holes and a keeper dropped through to the pan, so will remove the pan to retrieve it. The drain plug is on the end of the pan and I discovered that a significant amount of oil does not drain AND it is one step away from sludge. What methods are used to fully drain the oil?

Edited by pflaming
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Jack the front of the vehicle up so the drain plug is the lowest point, drain  with engine oil hot.

Edited by Branded
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9 minutes ago, pflaming said:

I did not plug the oil return holes and a keeper dropped through to the pan, so will remove the pan to retrieve it. The drain plug is on the end of the pan and I discovered that a significant amount of oil does not drain AND it is one step away from sludge. What methods are used to fully drain the oil?

If  you have taken the oil pan off and cleaned it and the oil pump pickup screen,why not just start using modern 15-40w diesel detergent oil and not have this problem ever again?

People sometimes get into trouble when they just change the oil in a old and neglected engine that maybe didn't get regular oil changes and was rarely ran long enough to get up to normal operation temperatures so the original oil would thin out,flow better,and fall to the bottom of the pan. If you have removed the pan and cleaned everything,you shouldn't have a problem.

Do yourself a favor and use a good quality diesel 15/40 oil,though. This

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-112786-15W-40-Delvac-Super/dp/B001VXS1UG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503491613&sr=8-2&keywords=15w40+diesel+oil

is what I always ran in my truck diesels and still use in my front end loader,and I can't say enough good things about it. I would still be using it if I hadn't switched to Mobil 1 synthetic 15-40 turbo diesel oil  in my 06 GMC 2500 Duramax. That truck now has around 125,000 miles on it,and when I change the oil at 20k miles it is the same oil put in it at the previous oil change because I haven't had to add any. This included a round trip from NC to ND,and weighing in at a little over 19,000 lbs when I left ND to come back home,and put the cruise control on 75 and just let it eat. As far as I can tell,it didn't use or lose a drop of oil.and that oil change already had about 10k miles on it. My truck has the LBZ optional engine with 365 hp and 665 ft lbs of torque,and the new ones are now up to over 400 hp and 700 ft lbs of torque,regardless of if it is a GM,Ford,or Dodge. I have no idea why anyone needs that  much hp and torque in a pu,but that's what they have now.

If you have never pulled a trailer with a 3/4 ton or larger diesel truck,you will be shocked at the difference the first time you do. The larger brakes,the extra weight,and the heavier duty suspension make all the difference in the world. Add to that a low-RPM,low drama engine that just never quits pulling,and it's heaven on earth.

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TKS for the tips. I hoisted the block up to a nice angle and more  oil escaped, then I tapped on the bottom of the pan with a hammer, used a telescoping magnet and retrieved my keeper.  That done I lapped the valve and with this incredible spring compressor all is back on track. The head is back on, ready to be torqued.  

IMG_1078.JPG

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