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'50 fastback questions


Fastback50

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Hey guys, 

So it's been a while since I posted but I recently decided that simply driving and (barely) stopping was not enough for the Plymouth, and began tearing things apart for a Scarebird disc conversion kit and rewiring most, if not all of the car.  I decided to remove the inner and outer fender wall after figuring out that old undercoating was covering most of the mounting bolts, light housings, etc (I'm painstakingly removing this stuff and painting the items).  After removing all but one bolt from the outer fender on the driver's side, I realized that someone had welded the outer rocker panel where it butts up to the lower rear portion of the fender.  There is bad rust/lack of steel on the cowl (I think this is the correct term) in front of the driver's side door, and I'm guessing some of the mounting/structural surface was compromised.  I've attached a few pics links of the issues I mentioned. A couple questions:

Does anyone have a pic of that cowl in it's full form, or a '50 body sheet book with pics?  I will probably have to have someone rebuild that for me, as it's out of my skill range at this point I'd say.  

In order to get the fender off, should I just take the chop wheel to the weld?  Anything to consider when doing this so I don't make more work for myself?  

My sympathies to anyone else dealing with REAL rust belt rust, old undercoating, or the copious amounts of dino grease/dirt mix on farm fresh cars :)

 

http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jxc330/media/IMG_0934_zpstnbvwe8f.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jxc330/media/IMG_0932_zps4vxgkpsx.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jxc330/media/IMG_0901_zpsleh0sjjf.jpg.html?sort=3&o=15

 

 

 

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Here ya go, and only thought I had.

When you cut it, cut to the left of the weld. Maybe leave a lil extra on the rocker for the body guy to use for his repair.

The fender also needs some work and can easily be worked on on a saw horse, just easier to get to then the rocker lying on the ground.

Probably wont matter one way or the other.

50fast.jpg

51fast.jpg

52fast.jpg

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19 hours ago, Fastback50 said:

Hey guys, 

So it's been a while since I posted but I recently decided that simply driving and (barely) stopping was not enough for the Plymouth, and began tearing things apart for a Scarebird disc conversion kit and rewiring most, if not all of the car.  I decided to remove the inner and outer fender wall after figuring out that old undercoating was covering most of the mounting bolts, light housings, etc (I'm painstakingly removing this stuff and painting the items).  After removing all but one bolt from the outer fender on the driver's side, I realized that someone had welded the outer rocker panel where it butts up to the lower rear portion of the fender.  There is bad rust/lack of steel on the cowl (I think this is the correct term) in front of the driver's side door, and I'm guessing some of the mounting/structural surface was compromised.  I've attached a few pics links of the issues I mentioned. A couple questions:

Does anyone have a pic of that cowl in it's full form, or a '50 body sheet book with pics?  I will probably have to have someone rebuild that for me, as it's out of my skill range at this point I'd say.  

In order to get the fender off, should I just take the chop wheel to the weld?  Anything to consider when doing this so I don't make more work for myself?  

My sympathies to anyone else dealing with REAL rust belt rust, old undercoating, or the copious amounts of dino grease/dirt mix on farm fresh cars :)

 

http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jxc330/media/IMG_0934_zpstnbvwe8f.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jxc330/media/IMG_0932_zps4vxgkpsx.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jxc330/media/IMG_0901_zpsleh0sjjf.jpg.html?sort=3&o=15

 

Pics worked for me.  I used to have a rust bucket worse then yours.  Would drop a pound or two of decayed rusted metal every time I got near it.  Got tired of sweeping up after it. Finally got rid of it.....Hope yours go better!

 

 

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40 minutes ago, Don Coatney said:

I had a problem sharing a photo bucket photo earlier today. Let me know if this one is visible.

Works fine Don, I noticed the other day the op photos open, just take forever for it to do so. So I just downloaded them and then uploaded from my machine.

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4 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

I had a problem sharing a photo bucket photo earlier today. Let me know if this one is visible.

MHRCMEMBERSDON-LISACOATNEY.jpg

Yes, I can see that Don, thanks.  The PBucket site was VERY slow for me last night and today...maybe it's an issue on their end.  

 

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5 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Here ya go, and only thought I had.

When you cut it, cut to the left of the weld. Maybe leave a lil extra on the rocker for the body guy to use for his repair.

The fender also needs some work and can easily be worked on on a saw horse, just easier to get to then the rocker lying on the ground.

Probably wont matter one way or the other.

50fast.jpg

51fast.jpg

52fast.jpg

Thanks for the input--it cut nice and clean tonight, and three bolts later it was off the car:  http://s61.photobucket.com/user/jxc330/media/IMG_0935_zpslsxgrbil.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

What a difference to be able to get into the engine bay with such ease.  I'll have to figure out a temporary solution for the battery/starting solenoid so that I can test the electrical out while working on it.  

I'm thinking of going just all 12 or 14 gauge....I know that's not "restoration" proper, but this car is going to be driver, and that's it.  I want it to function properly and look decent.  Thoughts on 12 or 14?  I don't think I would need to use 10 or something that large, and I'm still contemplating 12v conversion anyway.  

Someone please let me know if that pic doesn't load...I'm switching to the Photobucket method because the size restrictions on here were requiring me to downsize every photo I took before loading which was time consuming.  

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By the way--I'm thinking of purchasing a needle scaler on that "tar type" undercoating....anyone ever used this?  I've been using a torch and scraper as I believe I read that Plymouthy had used this method, but wondering if a needle scaler would be quicker?

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There has been much discussion about wiring. Seen earlier today, someone posted a ebay link for some wire that just may be enough to do 1 car.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250-FEET-AUTOMOTIVE-PRIMARY-WIRE-14-GAUGE-AWG-HIGH-TEMP-GXL-10-COLORS-25-FT-EA/302198651189?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3Dab7c0f791d4848de8c606e2918c0c670%26pid%3D100507%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226

 

Some people swear by generic wiring harnesses, while others claim that the generic ship with to small wire. And it depends on if you stay 6 volt or go 12 volt.

You need heavy wire for 6 volt. You have reason for concern and others would be more help on wire size. depending 6 or 12 volt.

The kit above might be like a good starter kit, and add a little more to it as needed at home.

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@Plymouthy Adams: I agree, though some of this undercoating has deteriorated to the point of becoming brittle/flakey, then after a few inches reverting back to bonded/flexible material.  I guess I'll stick with the scraper/torch method for now, tedious as it is :)

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loose and flakey areas are usually easy to spot...hit this first with the scraper, then apply the heat to those areas still clinging on firm...yeah...it is a process and slow at times but to date I have not found any better or quicker methods.  If you have welding to do, you want this stuff gone for reasons of possible fire, stench when burnt...flash heat softens, welding burns and chars..makes removal later a pain...

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@Los_Control:  That wiring looks like a good deal--if 14 cannot handle 6v though I may go for 12...I'm looking for the happy medium that would handle 6v now and 12v if I convert later, but I'm not sure if that exists and i don't want any risk of fire due to under-doing it on my wiring.  Will 14ga handle 6 OR 12v?

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@Los_Control:  Haha love the flame thrower!  I have my service manual which give the complete wiring harness including colors and gauges, I am just trying to keep it simple, especially since it shows two different gauge wires going to something like a headlamp (not that I doubt the engineering abilities of the guys at Plymouth :)  

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8 minutes ago, Fastback50 said:

@Los_Control:  Haha love the flame thrower!  I have my service manual which give the complete wiring harness including colors and gauges, I am just trying to keep it simple, especially since it shows two different gauge wires going to something like a headlamp (not that I doubt the engineering abilities of the guys at Plymouth :)  

you have low beam and high beam, these are different wattage, wattage divided by voltage is amperage....thus the need for a heavier gauge on the high beam as opposed to the low beam.....I would not doubt the engineers, it has lasted all this time till you got the car....they surely have done many things right.

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23 hours ago, Fastback50 said:

By the way--I'm thinking of purchasing a needle scaler on that "tar type" undercoating....anyone ever used this?  I've been using a torch and scraper as I believe I read that Plymouthy had used this method, but wondering if a needle scaler would be quicker?

Removing undercoating--

I have used a Aircraft Paint remover many times. MESSY and may take several times but metal comes out mostly clean and no heat to distort large areas of sheet metal.

Use heavy coats-wait-scrape with putty knife-clean off crap unto old cardboard--use a old wire brush (large)  ,repeat as needed. Overall quickest method I have found to a perfectly clean undamaged part of hood. fender, etc. Leftovers of undercoating usually cool off hard and easily sand off to very clean sheet metal.

DJ

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as a note to all...I guess one could easily get carried away with the torch and over heat a panel.....but if you ever tried it....it is as simple as a hot air tool or stripping light....just pass it evenly across a small area.....scrape...you are not trying to do the entire panel with one heat cycle and one pass with the blade...

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