Jump to content

Rear End Help


kansascoronetguy

Recommended Posts

Hello All

im needing some help on identifying what type of rear end this is, the maintenance book says it should have a different type of rear end, but not sure.

Also was wondering if im going to use a 5 speed manual transmission with a 318 motor can i use this rear end

 

Capture.PNG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, kansascoronetguy said:

Hello All

im needing some help on identifying what type of rear end this is, the maintenance book says it should have a different type of rear end, but not sure.

Also was wondering if im going to use a 5 speed manual transmission with a 318 motor can i use this rear end

 

Capture.PNG

what does your reference book/source say it SHOULD have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, kansascoronetguy said:

doesnt say what it should have the description and pictures are a rear bolt on pumpkin. So im lost now and i want to put a 318 in it, but not sure if i can reuse this axle

 again, what is the book/source for this description...?   I am thinking you going to find an error in your source

 

as an aside, did you think ahead enough to reason that going with a more modern engine and transmission you will be losing your e-brake for the most part and will want a modern rear axle with integral e-brake to take full advantage of the components...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i do not have the book or source in front of me currently at work.... This is my first project and doing a frame up restoration. I havenet thought of the E brake componet yet... which pretty much leads me to use a modern rear end... I have access to a ford 9" rear end, if i do that i will have the disc brakes also which is something i wanted to do in the first place

Link to comment
Share on other sites

far from trying to sound nasty, but a frame up with modern components will not a restoration be....however upgrading is very common in building a car to suit your needs and a route many folks take.  However, in doing this, you have to look at the car as a whole, you need to know how each section of the vehicle interacts and or couples together in order to make a smooth and clean transition.  Else, you will be backing up left and right, making mods that may and likely will cost time and money to overcome because you left out a simple assuming aspect of the build.  If retaining a bit of the old and incorporate a bit of the new you have to find the correct parts to marry the two properly and safely to ensure a long MTBF.  Unfortunately it is not as simple as grab this and that and just bolt together.  Most magazines never tell you about the 20-30 back shops handling this and that in their projects with unlimited money to throw about and they never tell you their mistakes I assure you.  

If you have the factory repair manual, read it, study the build of the car, get to know the components and where mounted and how they work.  If you have a donor car for the newer components, you should also be familiar with the mounting/connecting requirements there also.  Reading up and familiarization and building your car on paper prior to any cuts or purchase of components will save you greatly in the long run.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The nine inch Ford should take all the power a 318 can provide, likely has the right bolt circle for the wheels and will have the emergency brake.

The differential pictured could work well under your Coronet but it will have no provision for an e-brake and it uses the ball and trunnion u-joint which can be costly to service.

Depending on the gear ratio, there are members on this forum who may be able to use it as the gear set fits light trucks too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you guys "Plymouth Adams" you are not being nasty (i Hear worse from my wife about this project haha) i guess yes not a restore, i planned on it being a complete restore but time adn money was going to be the factor in that for me... then some one mentioned using the 318 and modern tranny for it which is cheaper to find and rebuild than the flathead 6 i have and gyro matic tranny. 

I do have a mid 90 Lincoln with a ford 9 in it that is torn apart that i was going to use for something in the future or scrap. My main thought was trying to stick with Dodge parts even though it wasnt completely original at least all the components were from Chrysler. But i see thats going to be hard especially in the rear end and brake department

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, kansascoronetguy said:

Thank you guys "Plymouth Adams" you are not being nasty (i Hear worse from my wife about this project haha) i guess yes not a restore, i planned on it being a complete restore but time adn money was going to be the factor in that for me... then some one mentioned using the 318 and modern tranny for it which is cheaper to find and rebuild than the flathead 6 i have and gyro matic tranny. 

I do have a mid 90 Lincoln with a ford 9 in it that is torn apart that i was going to use for something in the future or scrap. My main thought was trying to stick with Dodge parts even though it wasnt completely original at least all the components were from Chrysler. But i see thats going to be hard especially in the rear end and brake department

NO, keeping it all Mopar will not be as hard as you think if that is a common goal in your primary build....many folks here have traveled that road and left breadcrumbs all along the way, and for your edification, just search these forums and you will be amazed at the data you can glean quickly from those that have gone before.    Now souring it at your location for your valued price to obtain these components may be a bit of a kick in the teeth at times.  Remember, you don't have to buy from the first source, shop a bit ONCE you decide the component is right for your build.   The rear gear and e-brakes are the least of your problems and can easily and happily be married to your existing hand brake control..ratio selection SHOUILD be all about how you intend to drive the car verse all out track performance...the e-brake is just one of the build factors you should not overlook till it is time to actually use the feature and realize you left that out of your plans.  Build it on paper first....!  As for components, grab a pad of paper, pencil, tape measure and hit the wrecking yards.  You will be miles ahead spending this time in research verse backing up....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thank you very much, so far i have had nothing but positive feedback and responses from everyone on here, my immediate plans this week is to paint my frame and start to purchase my rubber bushings for my front suspension then i need to start thinking about the rear axle 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as for the front suspension...are you going disc brakes, relocated shocks and possible upgrade to R&P....are you in the frame of mind to leave stock ride height over that of lowering a tad for a difference stance say raked a bit with lower front or lowered all around.  It is at this time you need to know you final goal here also.  Think of the big picture and again of how things interact.  Some of these mentioned features make all the difference in riding and stopping characteristics.  Anyway, I have said enough on this, I cannot ever stress the importance of building your car on paper first and STICK with the original build concept to keep it flowing and less costly in the long run.  Only you know how you wish the car to drive and perform.  Good luck

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No reason you cant use all mopar stuff on your build as pointed out by Tim - 8 3/4 axle from a 66-70 B body should be a close fit, others have used axles from Jeeps and dakota's which in that case are 8 1/4 "c" lock rear axles. All can take a 318 w no issue. 9 inch ford will work - main thing is flange to flange width - you want to be close - narrower is better but not more than 1-2 inches total from what I can tell. Search the site for more detail on what others have done successfully.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Explorer axle is a very popular unit due to available gear ratios, overall width, bolt pattern and disc brakes....and most often the pic-n-pull lets them go pretty cheap. Many have Ford's version of Sure-grip as a bonus.

If you read through Fester's postings, you'll save yourself some effort since he also swapped a 318 into a 50 Coronet.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kansasguy.....checkout the "Steering" thread and mine and Tims replys & pics..........as far as engines go the 318/5 speed is a relatively easy fit, you'll be best to check the disc brake conversions and the rear axle swaps, its all doable, just depends on your level of expertise, tools & equipment availability ...........with a bit of negotiation between your steering column and exhaust manifold you maybe able to still have the stock steering box but it will be tight...........andyd 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did this get identified?  I am in the process of possibly replacing my rear axle, as the drum...became misshaped last friday when i tried to remove a stud.  Looking into it a little further i'm finding that originally it would have had a wheel bolt rather than a stud.  This is where my possible dilemma begins, as i need to figure out myself what rear end i actually have under my 48.  If it is not original equipment, it may shine a light on some sealing issues i've had, but that may also just be because i can seem to only get offshore seals.  I am going to crawl under it hopefully this evening and try to get some good numbers which may shed some light on the situation.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use