ThriftyT Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Just bought this Coupe this weekend, noticed tonight that I have no brake lights. Anything special I should be aware of? Or is it most likely the switch at the master cylinder? Or is the switch somewhere else? Thanks in advance. This car is a blast 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThriftyT Posted August 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Just bought this Coupe this weekend, noticed tonight that I have no brake lights. Anything special I should be aware of? Or is it most likely the switch at the master cylinder? Or is the switch somewhere else? Thanks in advance. This car is a blast 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 (edited) Start with the easy part . Are the bulbs burnt out ? Do you have electricity at the bulb socket ? If you have power to the bulbs , see if the ground is bad by running a temporary ground . If no electricity at the bulb then check at the brake light switch for electricity . That looks like a great car . Edited August 7, 2017 by Jerry Roberts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThriftyT Posted August 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 I have tail lights, are they separate bulbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 If its like a lot of the other 40s mopars it only had 1 brake light to begin with. The outside lights were just tail lights and the center was the brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThriftyT Posted August 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 No center light. 2 tail lights. And 2 bumper mounted blinkers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Jumper the 2 wires on the brake light switch. If the brake lights come on it's a bad switch. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThriftyT Posted August 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 be sure ignition key is on...most mopars this era had brake power through the ignition switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medium_jon Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Very nice looking Coupe. Congratulations @ThriftyT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonaldSmith Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 You only have the center brake light, if it is still stock. Check the bulb and ground, and maybe add a ground wire (Some people put double filament bulbs in the tail lights, t o have brake lights there also.) The hydraulic brake switch is notorious for failing. You could replace it when it goes bad, or substitute a mechanical brake switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 I searched on the model mentioned and there was none pictured that had the center trunk mounted brake light.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 The brakelamp switch is mounted on the frame just in front of the mc on a fitting that splits the fluid flow, but I have a P15 which may be different from the Chrysler set up but they are in the same area as the mc. When you locate it try powering it with a jumper wire, or try to power the wire that goes to the trunk with the jumper bypassing the switch. Then when you have known power to the light fixtures you can check for bulbs, grounds and other faults at the load eng of the circuit. The wires to the rear are under the headliner, they enter into the trunk near the package tray behind the rear seat. There are some Bakelite connecters there where the wires split to go to the lamps, check to see if they are all tight. Does you car have turn signals? Factory or aftermarket? The fault can also be there, but more likely bad switch or grounds. I have repowered my brake light switch independently through a dedicated inline fused line from the battery side of the starter solenoid. Provides a less complicated circuit and takes the brakelight load off the main lighting circuit,so head light don't dim so much sitting at a traffic light with the brakes on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Luke Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Twin bulbs in my 40 Chrysler, and no centre light. Like Greg, I'd look at the switch and clean the earth connections. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThriftyT Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Well. After messing with it. I now have brake lights when headlights are off, and one brake light when headlights are on.... bulb looked good. But will replace tomorrow and check again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThriftyT Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Thank you guys. Well. After messing with it. I now have brake lights when headlights are off, and one brake light when headlights are on.... bulb looked good. But will replace tomorrow and check again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 15 minutes ago, ThriftyT said: Well. After messing with it. I now have brake lights when headlights are off, and one brake light when headlights are on.... bulb looked good. But will replace tomorrow and check again Makes the argument for the dedicated power wire I mentioned earlier. Resistance through the head lamp switch is effecting brake light performance. Taking the power from an independent source would eliminate that. Speaks also to checking the ground path at the fixtures. Also if you do note have a ground from the body to the frame or engine, installing one. It will improve all accessories and lights that ground to the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medium_jon Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 7 hours ago, ThriftyT said: Well. After messing with it. I now have brake lights when headlights are off, and one brake light when headlights are on.... bulb looked good. But will replace tomorrow and check again I have brakelights with the headlights off. None with the lights on. I haven't tackled the electrical items on my P20 yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medium_jon Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 7 hours ago, greg g said: Makes the argument for the dedicated power wire I mentioned earlier. Resistance through the head lamp switch is effecting brake light performance. Taking the power from an independent source would eliminate that. Speaks also to checking the ground path at the fixtures. Also if you do note have a ground from the body to the frame or engine, installing one. It will improve all accessories and lights that ground to the body. Good information @greg g Thanks for sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThriftyT Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Will do tonight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 I ran a12 gauge wire from the battery side solenoid terminal. It is hot with ign off so brake lights are available regardless of key positioning. Spliced in a fuse holder w 15 amp fuse. Identify, disconnect and tape off the original power wire, connect the new power lead and bulbs and grounds being g good you should have nice bright brake lghts. As an aside, with the engine running, you can tell when the brake lights are on, as with this mod, the vr senses the load and kicks up the Genny to compensate, and it will show a positive charge on the amp gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThriftyT Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Do the terminals on the switch just pull off? Or is it a 1/4 turn then pull? Tried last night and not wanting to break anything I didn't pull crazy. But never budged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThriftyT Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 56 minutes ago, greg g said: I ran a12 gauge wire from the battery side solenoid terminal. It is hot with ign off so brake lights are available regardless of key positioning. Spliced in a fuse holder w 15 amp fuse. Identify, disconnect and tape off the original power wire, connect the new power lead and bulbs and grounds being g good you should have nice bright brake lghts. As an aside, with the engine running, you can tell when the brake lights are on, as with this mod, the vr senses the load and kicks up the Genny to compensate, and it will show a positive charge on the amp gauge. I appreciate the tip. Will definitely do this tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 I think all of them just slip onto the switch terminals. A bit of a wiggle couldn't hurt maybe a shot of penetrant first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 they are bullet style connector...another source for inducing high resistance if corroded.....IF you decided to renew the switch,...you can get a stop light switch with terminal lugs if you wish and by-pass these push in connectors...be careful these have been known to break the internal locking cup as they are quite old... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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