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'40 Chrysler - no brake lights


ThriftyT

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Just bought this Coupe this weekend,  noticed tonight that I have no brake lights.   Anything special I should be aware of? Or is it most likely the switch at the master cylinder?   Or is the switch somewhere else?    

Thanks in advance.  

This car is a blast 

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Just bought this Coupe this weekend,  noticed tonight that I have no brake lights.   Anything special I should be aware of? Or is it most likely the switch at the master cylinder?   Or is the switch somewhere else?    

Thanks in advance.  

This car is a blast 

IMG_0242.JPG

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Start with the easy part . Are the bulbs burnt out ? Do you have electricity at the bulb socket ? If you have power to the bulbs , see if the ground is bad by running a temporary ground . If no electricity at the bulb then check at the brake light switch for electricity .  That looks like a great car . 

Edited by Jerry Roberts
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You only have the center brake light, if it is still stock.  Check the bulb and ground, and maybe add a ground wire  (Some people put double filament bulbs in the tail lights, t o have brake lights there also.) 

The hydraulic brake switch is notorious for failing.  You could replace it when it goes bad, or substitute a mechanical brake switch.

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The brakelamp switch is mounted on the frame just in front of the mc on a fitting that splits the fluid flow, but I have a P15 which may be different from the Chrysler set up but they are in the same area as the mc.  When you locate it try powering it with a jumper wire, or try to power the wire that goes to the trunk with the jumper bypassing the switch.  Then when you have known power to the light fixtures you can check for bulbs, grounds and other faults at the load eng of the circuit.  The wires to the rear are under the headliner, they enter into the trunk near the package tray behind the rear seat.  There are some Bakelite connecters there where the wires split to go to the lamps, check to see if they are all tight.  Does you car have turn signals?  Factory or aftermarket?  The fault can also be there, but more likely bad switch or grounds. 

I have repowered my brake light switch independently through a dedicated inline fused line from the battery side of the starter solenoid.  Provides a less complicated circuit and takes the brakelight load off the main lighting circuit,so head light don't dim so much sitting at a traffic light with the brakes on. 

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15 minutes ago, ThriftyT said:

Well.  After messing with it.   I now have brake lights when headlights are off, and one brake light when headlights are on....  bulb looked good.  But will replace tomorrow and check again 

Makes the argument for the dedicated power wire I mentioned earlier.  Resistance through the head lamp switch is effecting brake light performance. Taking the power from an independent source would eliminate that.  Speaks also to checking the ground path at the fixtures.  Also if you do note have a ground from the body to the frame or engine, installing one.  It will improve all accessories and lights that ground to the body.

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7 hours ago, ThriftyT said:

Well.  After messing with it.   I now have brake lights when headlights are off, and one brake light when headlights are on....  bulb looked good.  But will replace tomorrow and check again 

I have brakelights with the headlights off. None with the lights on.  I haven't tackled the electrical items on my P20 yet. 

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7 hours ago, greg g said:

Makes the argument for the dedicated power wire I mentioned earlier.  Resistance through the head lamp switch is effecting brake light performance. Taking the power from an independent source would eliminate that.  Speaks also to checking the ground path at the fixtures.  Also if you do note have a ground from the body to the frame or engine, installing one.  It will improve all accessories and lights that ground to the body.

Good information @greg g  Thanks for sharing 

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I ran a12 gauge wire from the battery side solenoid terminal.  It is hot with ign off so brake lights are available regardless of key positioning.  Spliced in a fuse  holder w 15 amp fuse.  Identify, disconnect and tape off the original power wire, connect the new power lead and bulbs and grounds being g good you should have nice bright brake lghts.

As an aside, with the engine running, you can tell when the brake lights are on, as with this mod, the vr senses the load and kicks up the Genny to compensate, and it will show a positive charge on the amp gauge.

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56 minutes ago, greg g said:

I ran a12 gauge wire from the battery side solenoid terminal.  It is hot with ign off so brake lights are available regardless of key positioning.  Spliced in a fuse  holder w 15 amp fuse.  Identify, disconnect and tape off the original power wire, connect the new power lead and bulbs and grounds being g good you should have nice bright brake lghts.

As an aside, with the engine running, you can tell when the brake lights are on, as with this mod, the vr senses the load and kicks up the Genny to compensate, and it will show a positive charge on the amp gauge.

I appreciate the tip.  Will definitely do this tonight 

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they are bullet style connector...another source for inducing high resistance if corroded.....IF you decided to renew the switch,...you can get a stop light switch with terminal lugs if you wish and by-pass these push in connectors...be careful these have been known to break the internal locking cup as they are quite old...

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