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Ball and Trunnions: removing trunnions


thebeebe5

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Tried pressing out the trunnions on my '37 driveshaft and was unsuccessfull even with a 10 ton Sunnen press.  The manual doesn't mention any pins or retaining hardware, and the given spec for installation having each side be within 0.006" once reinstalled makes me think there's no such hardware.   So, can these things just be that stubborn? I'll try some heat next, but wondering what other's experiences have been.

Here's a look at my joint boots.   At some point the rear boot split and a homemade "boot" installed.   Actually, this joint had grease in it.  The rigged fix did its job.   Front was quite dry, but it still had what I am guessing was the original leather boot in place. Hardened with age...  Maybe never taken off or serviced. 

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Edited by thebeebe5
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That homemade repair make look a little crude and rude,but there ain't no arguing with something that worked on a car that was probably being used as a daily driver at the time.

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I agree with Frank, I'd be trying to find a normal sliding yoke uni joint and use it, if not a mother mopar version then I am pretty certain all modern 4wheel drives use sliding yoke uni joints and any competent driveline shop should be able to modify the stock Plymouth shaft to take the sliding yoke from one of them, just a cleaner, more better setup that doesn't come apart and fling grease everywhere............lol..........andyd   

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7 hours ago, Frank Elder said:

My cars are never 100% stock so.....getting rid of that trunnion nonsense is always on my list.

 

5 hours ago, Andydodge said:

I agree with Frank, I'd be trying to find a normal sliding yoke uni joint and use it, if not a mother mopar version then I am pretty certain all modern 4wheel drives use sliding yoke uni joints and any competent driveline shop should be able to modify the stock Plymouth shaft to take the sliding yoke from one of them, just a cleaner, more better setup that doesn't come apart and fling grease everywhere............lol..........andyd   

Had wanted to keep it stock.  If i go the Spicer route I'll just have a whole new shaft made.   It is a consideration. Can't do that until the Engine and trans are back in the car and I can take measurements.  I'll take it to MasterShaft in PHX.  If they can't get the trunnions out I'll wait and get them measurements once I'm all reassembled. 

Edited by thebeebe5
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I just took my old driveshaft into the shop, 3 days and  $450 later I had a new one with modern u-joints. Only complaint is that I have to use a thin open ended wrench to remove the 9/16" nuts because the Spicer yokes make it tight to work on. Not really a big deal but I use the car to test drive overdrive transmissions and takes longer to drop the shaft then it does to swap transmissions. 

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